B-BGTLimited

Anyone know if this much of a ramp is normal on the 3rd gear shift collar? All the other rings are a symmetrical point. The one I replaced on my 07 looks similar but I know that one was worn. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Oh yes... It's disgusting... LOL Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Oh how I love the smell of old 90 weight in the morning... Output shaft bearing is shot... Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

What did I do FOR my 4th Gen.... Picked up more parts for it... LOL Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Man this is getting time consuming... LOL. Can't have any of those suspension bolts looking ugly! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Here's the info on the yellow chromate https://caswellplating.com/yellow-chromate.html And the info on the clear/blue https://caswellplating.com/blue-chromate-8oz-makes-1-quart.html Since my rear subframe is brand new I'm coating the hell out of it with fluid film... Oil and grease is really the best preventer... LOL leaky cars have the best suspension components to pick from! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Quite simple honestly... Caswell Copy Cad/ZINC plating kit. Additional components are two submersible heaters and a $50 DC power supply, with adjustable current, that just showed up today and improved my process over the one I was using this weekend. Plates way quicker now. Just did two swaybar brackets in 18 min. Took me over 40 min to do the power steering brackets this weekend. You can also get a yellow chromate dip for after the plating, the parts will look more like the golden stuff that's already on the Subaru's. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

This is addicting.... Before Bare steel cleaned and polished Plated Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I keep thinking the same thing about my 06 build... then I realize I forgot something else... I still don't think I've ordered a timing belt kit yet... ughk...

I just took apart a very rust free 06 and the rear toe adjusters were frozen solid inside the bushings. The bushing sleeve ripped and started free spinning, there was no way to get it out. I had to hack them out. So best of luck back there. Fronts may be broken free with heat... Lots of heat... You have a better chance at getting those than the rears I think. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Slowly getting stuff together. Finished 90% assy on the intake setup... Few more hoses to replace. Got front cradle and new rack in, and rear cradle and trailing arm brackets. Sprayed all above that stuff with fluid film before going in! Oh yeah don't worry the struts will be swapped with my Koni H&R combo that's on my 07 right now. Slow and steady. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Trying out my zinc plating kit for the Legacy bolts... Stuff on the left has been plated. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Same location as the Bronco II, I updated my post to clarify.

Yes pump housing/filter is brand new on this setup... (my 06 Legacy GT I'm building) Similar filter as yours, from my wife's 1986 Ford Bronco II... The whole fuel system was replaced when I found this... LMAO, it also explained its really bad hesitation.. Inside the tank

Cylinder 4 cooling mod is in the pile of parts already... I am going to look back and see if I can find out what I gapped my CP piston rings to on my 07 build. **Found it... Boy was I wrong about the forged piston noise not bothering me... LMAO! I may at least check the stock ones and go from there. I'll just be happy that this engine wont sound like it has a bad lifter or is a diesel... the forged build is getting old... lol

On the discussion of new OEM Short blocks... Anyone have any input or recommendation on pulling the pistons and checking/opening up the stock ring gap since this will be pushing 19-20lbs of boost? Another safety net deal along with adding the Cylinder 4 cooling hose. Factory specs show .0079"-.0098" for top and .015"-.020" for second. So the question is, would something like .015" and .025" be beneficial?

It is a stock short block, since 2011 Subaru has put the nitrided crank in all of their engines even if the original car did not come with it. I've also heard that all short blocks are built to EJ257 standards, even if the original car was a EJ255. When you go to buy a short block you have up to 3 choices now, and maybe more... 04-07 Block 10103AC870 08-16 Block 10103AC890 18-20 Block 10103AD020 I went with the 870 PN since that is supposed to be designed and setup to work with the B25 heads where the 08-16 is setup to work with the smaller CC'd D25 heads (if I have the number right) I think they have a deeper dish on the piston to accommodate that. I also know some have used the new Type RA block 18-20, but once again I believe those pistons are dished more to accept smaller CC'd heads which will further drop your static CR. Another interesting read for the EJ255 vs EJ257 as well... https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

I don't see why you couldn't setup 4 cars, and then delete one from the software... Hell the unit itself doesn't even hold anymore than 1 cars worth of sensors, one set winter and one set summer for easy swap. But if you want to program Car #2 you need to plug the unit back in and download the 2nd vehicle info to the unit.

That's where you wrap the pull cord around it to start it. If you're serious, all new short blocks come with a nitrided crank. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Well that's a OEM block for a 04-07 Legacy GT PN 10103AC870 so the right combination for my 06 heads, other parts will be Killer B oil pickup, STI 11mm oil pump, Perrin TMIC, Invidia turbo back catted exhaust, VF52, tactrix 3-port boost solenoid, DW850 injectors and DW300C fuel pump, . Nothing crazy just another daily to hopefully last me a while since I'm redoing all of the suspension and bushings at the same time. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Picked up my shorty. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I will have to check my ATEQ software when I get home to see how it "stores" the vehicles. If it's just inside the software then remove the software and strip all info from that machine and re-install it.... problem solved?

Ordered PN 10103AC870.... Picking it up tomorrow.

Jesus... Buy a short block and have your heads rebuilt locally and put the thing together yourself... It will be way less than that. I'm going to be all in around 6-7k for a fresh motor, and that's including doing all of my subframes, bushings and suspension components to rustproof my 06 build.

I'm interested! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk