Perscitus

Hi GhiaAddict, for our fellow members on here and this thread... are the Eibach's the 7722.140? https://www.amazon.com/Eibach-7722-140-Pro-Kit-Performance-Spring/dp/B004Y3GSRI https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/lowering-springs/eib1-7722-140-eibach-pro-kit-lowering-springs Like you said Eibach seems to have them on close-out for $92.75 UPDATE - they do have them in stock but not at the 92.75 price, just the 'normal' $275.... at least they will not offer them @ that price anymore. http://performance-suspension-eibach.shptron.com/p/pro-kit-performance-springs-set-of-4-springs-302

Ah, yeah that will be tricky and likely involve some software that can overlay datalog metrics over video recording of a run and synchronize both. and not just do numbers, but a scrolling plot. Something like that must be out there but its likely $$$, tricky to get talking to specific video editing and logging software or both.

Hey Gator, BtSsm logging in Kline mode (non-CAN) will give you plenty more than just RPM on a 2005 Subaru ECU (USDM, EDM, JDM etc.) You can either do BtSsm OBDII Bluetooth dongle + Android device, OBDLink LX/MX + Android device, VAG-com cable + USB-OTG adapter + Android device or Tactrix OPv2 + USB-OTG adapter + Android device.

Nice find Humble, but my vote is also to skip intakes, especially something like this. OEM is ideal, both for NA and FI up to say Stage 2 or 3. MAF scaling issues, intake resonance and turbulance skewing the MAF and everythin that inherits from the MAF signal on a MAF/MAP tune is not worth anything an intake could potentially deliver either off-road or up top in the power band.

Happy early New Year fellow LGTers!

Tim, have you asked Ed regarding yay/nay on this or any other intake for your 3.6R? What's his take given the count of 3.0Rs and 3.6Rs he's tuned with all possible combos of stock/aftermarket intake, headers, exhaust setups. including intakes with that funky airbox chamber sold in Asia. The Raptor intake sadly does not fit a 5th or 6th gen 3.6R and when we talked about it a few years ago, Raptor wasn't too interested in expanding their design to cover the newer engine. With all the intake R&D work I've done on these cars, I would still vote to just keep the intake stock, milkjug resonator and all, even down to the air filtering element or at most, swap in a dry-element drop in.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/921/TngPGd.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/Np4ZmU.jpg

Just as I thought! Clever man.

Why still no fog bezels with that new bumper cover Joe? Planning something different from the DRLs or? Today... visited my favorite winery in Bridgehampton. http://www.wolffer.com/

Thats the thing, similar to your current setup Im not. Perhaps the trick is a smaller or different aux cooler combined with a fully synthetic fluid that behaves well under lower temps? I typically use a small aux cooler with multiple flow paths, mounted in front of the radiator and AC condenser in the path of direct airflow and radiator fan airflow. Couple that with a full ATF transfusion or a series of drain and fills to switch to say Amsoils or Motuls ATF, CVTF... Ideally which meet the required Subaru spec. Both have a much wider operating range vs OE fluid... Both on the cooler ans hotter sides of the spectrum. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1479653147037

Also used on the JDM WRX S4, Levorg and 5th gen Legacy/Liberty DIT and the USDM 2015+ WRX. I would skip. No benefit over a well plumbed perhaps smaller aux cooler / thermostat setup. I have bypassed these on 3 Subarus with no ill effects and good CVTF temps. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/properly-plumb-your-5eat-transmission-cooler-221643.html

Hmm, your setup sounds fine - except if I understand it correctly, all that thermostat is doing is routing the fluid back to the transmission below 165F, only sending it through the air cooler >165F, correct? If so, perhaps you're seeing some effect of cold ATF in 1st since it would stay cool for a prolonged period of time post cold-start. What type of fluid? Can you log using either RR or BtSsm and get a sense of how long your ATF stays below say 100F, 150F? See what each of the solenoids are doing (log all solenoid pressure psi outputs), log engine/turbine RPMs and see when you notice lockup in 1st and other gears.

Use the standard SSM param for Fuel Pump DC (%). Should work for most ECU/CALID combos irrespective of Model/ModelYear. For pre-defined standard, extended and engineering params - always look to the latest RR logger definition XML file. Search it for the params you're interested in (standard params - generic - same address for most of our cars; extended/engineering params - memory addresses are ECUID specific). Remember that Fuel Pump DC in our ROMs is typically set to 2-3 target values so when logging you'll typically see associated step values. Say 0%, 33%, 66%, 100% or 0%, 50%, 75%, 100%. Might as well log Injector PW or DC as well to see if you have any fuel delivery issues. Fuel pump DC alone might not be very revealing.

One interesting note to above info on MDS on recent-gen Subarus (say 2005+) is that at least under SSM, MDS is active on cold start as well and appears fairly accurate on a per-cylinder basis. Monitoring 'Misfire (counts) Cylinder #1-6' SSM params over CAN or Kline (as applicable: so 1-4 on H4s, 1-6 on H6s) on Scoobies of varied ignition sys health should help figure out at least part of this MDS logic.

Some new goodies just arrived from Gator!

I've done the same on my 3.6R and it works as intended. I also disabled all AF Learn/Correct #3 and #4 (H6, so both Bank 1 and Bank 2 tables apply) fueling contributions because my O2 sensors are no longer physically located behind the cats (making any/all fueling contributions to CL suggested by them useless).

CVT owners, I highly recommend monitoring your CVTF temps, CVT deterioration %, VB Solenoid Pressures, Impeller and Turbine RPMs (to see when the lockup clutch engages and if it holds). Depending on your model year and whether your car uses a Denso vs a Hitachi TCU, you can do most of this using RomRaiders logger, ActiveOBD, ActiveOBD for TQ and soon BtSsm (by far the most versetile, fast and convienient of the three). Best $15 you can spend for your CVT Subaru. Average and peak CVTF temps alone will be very telling. If consistently too high, especially for extended periods of time its a good sign of: a. Oxidized CVTF (time to flush or drain-n-fill) b. Potential issues with TC lockup clutch c. Brazed TC, faulty solenoids, etc. Monitoring CVTF temps under load, when climbing hills, inner city stop and go, towing, etc gives a great indicaton if your car could benefit from a aux. CVTF cooler or if the OE radiator unit and tiny cooler are sufficient.

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=21964&start=45#p430975

Here is the engine cover that's missing in the shots (to highlight the Murray clamps from Gator!) http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4784300&postcount=9229 And yes, its a H6 facehugger that's hopped up on there: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5413843&postcount=22063 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5413881&postcount=22064

Received some dual bead clamps from Gator to replace all along the intake/throttle body tract. Great build quality, easy install/removal, far better equalized clamping vs standard and even tbolt clamps I had on previously. The rolled edges and internal sleeves are great silicone coupler friendly features, with dual beads providing a better seal... No vaccum leaks whatsoever with less clamping force. Will be back soon to order constant tension clamps for the WRX intake, charge pipe and TMIC couplers.

Looking good! Drive-train loss on a modern 6MT Scoobie is ~19-20%. AT and CVT are in the ballpark of ~30%. In Virtual dyno, make sure you have the frontal area as close as possible to the 5th gen dimensions. I spent a few days gathering all that info years ago, I'll dig it up and share.

Mike, are you sure about this? My experience with Ecutek and a few Ecutek Master Tuners (3 to be exact) is somewhat different.... My 2010 3.6R under Ecutek was 'locked' (perhaps its not the correct term, but the net effect was the same, more on that below) and so is my brother's 2015 WRX, still running Ecutek (in his case the 'lock' is further compounded by the use of RaceROM features). When I say 'locked' for the 2010 32-bit Denso ECU/ECM, I mean the default CAN bus SSM handshake/challenge/key was changed the moment an Ecutek reflash was written to the ECU/ECM EEPROM. This in turn prevented any third-party software from reading the ECU image (fine by me) but also Subaru's own SSM III and SSM IV and Flashwrite software from overwriting the Ecutek reflash with a stock flash, if I decided I wanted to go back to stock on my own, sell the car or go in for a recall reflash (not fine by me). Now, there is 3rd party software out there that can a. read and save an Ecutek flash image from an Ecutek'ed car (its still encrypted though as it saves down, which is OK as I don't care for or want to steal anyone's intellectual property - tuner's or Ecutek's), including the embedded license info and b. overwrite an Ecutek'ed ECU/ECM flash with a stock flash, changing the handshake/challenge/key back to 'normal' Subaru default... allowing subsequent re-flashing with stock images and/or opensource tunes based off of compatible CALIDs. The caveat on rolling back from an Ecutek tune WITHOUT Ecutek's suite/tuner kit or a trip to a Ecutek tuner is that once RaceROM is involved, things become substantially more complicated. As far as I know, and at least for now, there is no easy way to backup or remove a RaceROM'ed image from a 32-bit Denso or Hitachi ECU/ECM. Going back to stock is only possible via the Ecutek tuning suite (where a stock flash can be re-applied to a given car). RaceROM poses a challenge because typically sections of memory that are not used in the stock ROM or written in general are used to fit the RaceROM functionality (any/all) and write a sometimes larger than normal payload to the EEPROM. Now - as you mentioned - tuners have the ability to 'lock' tunes on their own as well. Sometimes through proprietary software (encryption/decryption before writing to the ECU/ECM) and/or by something as simple as changing the ECUID/CALID (typically CALID) to something other than what Subaru expects for a given Model-year/engine/market combo (say change one digit or reverse two fields, etc.). Depending on the tools at hand, this can be done either with opensource or Ecutek.

Tesla Model 3 (pre-ordered one a few days before the prototype event) or 991.2 Carrera. Most likely Model 3 though, because I'm tired of ICEs.