Perscitus

Really only a concern under WOT (100%) or sustained high throttle plate angle (say north of 60-70%%). With steady throttle, RPM and Load, watch for decreasing FLKC (meaning becoming more negative). Under WOT, and as RPM and Load climbs, watch for relatively high FKC (say <-2). In either case, the only time to mind FKC/FLKC is say above 1.5KRPM, above 1.1g/rev, under some moderate boost, say >4psi. Try to pull an LV from your LGT (using either RRs logger, BtSsm or LVViewer, FreeSsm maybe too) and see how your Learned Timing table looks like. If you notice a decent bunch of pulled timing (especially up top in the load/RPM cells) with IAM/DAM below, well below 1, that would indicate learned knock correction under WOT at higher RPMs. Anything in the low load, RPM cells can typically be ignored. IAM/DAM being lower than 1 can be ignored as well, especially if your KCA table has low additives and total timing is fairly aggressive. Looking at knock and logs really needs to be in the perspective of the tune with visibility into how its configured. Otherwise things lack context. Rock solid IAM/DAM and minimal FKC blips in logs might mean nothing or just as little as constant IAM/DAM instability and lots of FKC/FLKC noise... all depends on the tune, fuel, operating conditions. Ironically the second scenario might make more or just as much hp/tq and be 'safer' for the engine.

Likely completely benign. These cars (all engine flavors) have an overly sensitive strategy and will pull timing if you look at them wrong. At the same time, the ECU will constantly test the waters by attempting to add timing back throughout the RPM/Load surface. Depending on how total timing is set and what the t00n allows on the KCA side of things, that can be just as bad as many instances of pulled timing or abrupt cell to cell timing differences... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/everything-you-wanted-know-subarus-knock-prevention-strategy-254139.html

You changed all coils? That mustve been $$$. Next plan of attack would be injectors (also $$ just a tad less than coils). You should monitor your misfires per Cylinder in real-time using either RomRaiders logger or BtSsm... no tune required. Do the misfires occur more at or near idle, as you let off the throttle or say more during cold or hot start vs with the engine at operating temp? Does the engine hesitate, vibrate, etc? Another possible culprit given her age would he the in-tank fuel pre-filter (sock) and filter (inside the in-tank pump housing). Both relatively cheap, a bit of a PITA to replace by opening up the fuel pump housing. Are you still on original MAF, AF and O2 sensors? Those should be updated next, especially the 2 front AF sensors and the MAF. Denso replacements can be had much cheaper than OE parts.

Don't worry Chillwill, you can safely use it (especially on NA tanks like the EZ36D) and it sure it better than any oiled drop-in or aftermarket intake for your 3.6R.... but the OE paper filters are the best. I've experimented with this for 25+ years, 12+ of Subarus. Zero pros, just cons, even with a tune, actually makes a tune harder on the tuner.

Ah yes. Nothing for now, car-less for sometime. In more interesting news, you guys might enjoy this video shot by my brother from my home of the Macy's 4th of July fireworks this year. Last few years' we've been lucky to get almost all the barges lined up directly in front of my windows.

Rear diff inserts will result in a marked improvement because she's ~6 and the OEs have worn. Not as much of an improvement on a 1-2 year old Subaru. Best bang for the I hope you went with the 'soft' 5EAT insert. That too will give a big difference and you'll be amazed at how much sag has been introduced to the 5EAT position now vs what it will look like when the insert is in. Only downside, if any, is the 3->2->3 shudders on up/down shifts while coming to a stop or quickly accelerating will be a tad more pronounced. It is what is it.

Yeah, you cant go wrong with either Vibrant or Magnaflow. Find the part no. that you like and google shop around for best price. Just try to stick with metal core and at least 300-400 cell. For a turbo'ed engine stick with metal core over ceramic to avoid issues. Anything less than 300 cell is effectively same at catless in terms of smell, rasp and lack of emissions catalysis, so avoid that too. On a turbo'ed Subaru you want the first cat close to the turbo for optimal cat performance but also overall exhaust performance. On an NA it can be further back to create an effect like long headers. On both, you dont want the cat too far back downstream of the AF sensor so it never warms up enough or does so quickly. I'd vote general stock location or even closer upstream (look at some aftermarket down/jpipes from the usual suspects to get a sense of best location)

Magnaflow metal core cats will fit the bill. Its not just rust (SS) but the structural integrity of the core on a turbo car. You dont want it clogging, melting, collapsing or blowing out. You also dont want the cat far back, it needs to heat up plenty and fast to do its work. Keep the AF sensor in its stock location, or as close to it and its stock orientation as possible. This is critical. Even more than cat/catless and cat location. Then weld the cat in anywhere downstream from that, but no further than say the end of the front diff or mid- transmission pan. In theory, the closer to turbo exhaust flange, the better. No matter what, dont go beyond mid-car. Have your t00ner disable the rear O2 fuel learn/correcr contributions and cat efficiency DTCs and done.

Skip it, paper filter and call it a day. AEM (now owned by K&N) and Amsoil do make dry element drop ins but they are not worth anything over OE or Denso/Bosch/Wix drop in cellulose filters. The most important features served by the OE filter are a. proper seal b. low pressure drop c. good sustained filtering efficiency. No need for more air until >300whp. Don't risk messing with your MAF transfer function and IAT readings. Too much on these MAF/MAP hybrid control cars depends on the accuracy and stability of this sensors' readings.

You're welcome. The GESI can be had for $300 if you shop around. It will outlast the car and filter as well as the OE two cat setup with performance almost on par with catless. The 300 cell is ok too but you will smell the exhaust and will likely produce a fair bit more smoke/water vapor during cold months. With a turbo up front the sound and performance will be similar, but due to high EGTs, this one will likely need replacing in 5-8 yrs time. The turbo acts as a great muffler so either cell count and a single in-line cat will sound ok, not so on NAs where 400 cell is minimum and ideally 2 in-line are needed to elimibate throaty rasp, excess drone and volume, etc. If your local emissions check is visual only, get either or, else I recommend the GESI. Do it once, do it right. Worth every $.

I'd skip. It will need to be replaced within 2-3 years of that 5 year warranty. They dont list the substrate, fabrication method or substrate cell count. Do you know if you LGT is FED or CALI emissions? Under the hood sticker or ECU CALID/CID give that away. Restriction: Not legal in California Restriction: Not legal in NY on OBDII equipped vehicles Notes: For use on vehicles with Federal Emissions You want one of these 400 cell metal core, OBDII and CALI/FED emissions legal bad boy: https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1326&products_id=2071&osCsid=0558ae75f4314e8712047a695f05ea0a (can be had for much cheaper online, one and done on an LGT so worth the cost) Worse-case this 300 cell metal core will do too (many catted DPs for LGTs, WRXs, etc) include these welded in. https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1470&products_id=857&osCsid=0558ae75f4314e8712047a695f05ea0a

Current-gen M3/M4s - meh. Especially with 'pops n bangs' t00ns and any flat/satin or colored chrome vinyl wraps. The brand ended with the E36/E46 and E39 M cars.

IAT and various other Temp compensation tables... Even in stock form the amount of timing that's pulled out up top is fairly high and if the t00ner had his way, potentially more is pulled out. Whether that's good or bad is a personal opinion.

Consider swapping that v2 for a v3 if married to anything newer than a 2008 Subaru. Lots of technical reasons, not because shiny and new - ROM size/support, protocol handshake, marry/unmarry stability, etc. COBBs OTS maps are horrible, and they rarely offer ones for non-COBB accessories. However, any e/local t00ner who works with COBB APs, ATR can get you dialed in with the Grimspeed EBCS in place. I wouldnt recommend driving around with one with no t00n or an OTS t00n. Same applies for any intake work. Only fair game changes for no or vanilla Stg1 t00ns are Full recirc BPVs and charge pipe, TMIC swaps, catbacks, aclebacks. For anything else re-t00n.

WGDC seem good but shouldnt really be static through a WOT run, unless the t00ner employs some odd TurboDynamics and WG tables strategy . Not sure you can log them, must calc them off Final Fuel Base vs AFR and Target Boost vs Direct/Actual Boost (or whatever these are all called in CoBB land). Weather wouldnt affect IDCs much, incorrect MAF scaling -> Load -> potentially inflated IDCs would. Log Injector PW instead or along side IDC and see what you get, see if any other LGTs on here can chime in with their PWs at specific RPM and MAFv during a WOT run, at idle, etc. This will give you a decent idea if your IDC is falsely inflated or actually ~90%

Ideally you want to stay south of 80% IDC at all times. Sounds like a mix of meh tune and undersized injectors (if using a bigger turbo, pushing much more boost, etc). If the turbo is stock and target boost <20psi, no reason for such high IDCs or PWs. Whay do your AF Error and Boost Error plots look like during such pulls? What WGDC do you hit?

Nice Humble! I think you've done that already and then some! Sure the trap spead wasn't more like 88mph? The slip reads: 31-Jul-2020 @ 2:57AM. First time traveling 5th gen 3.6R - check. Great Lakes Dragway staffer (2008): Alright then, Future Boy, who is president of the United States in 2020? Humble Rumble: Donald Trump Great Lakes Dragway staffer (2008): Donald Trump? The real-estate mogul + reality-show actor? Ha! Then who is vice president? Johnny Depp?

stewdogg - that's a good price for a rear O2 sensor. Denso? An alternative approach is to have a t00ner disable the AF#3 Learn/Correct fueling contributions and the DTC. An elegant permanent and safe solution to this on all Subaru's, especially those that are running catless or with high-flow cats, or have had their O2 sensors moved from stock location.

The full fill is actually closer to 3.2x gallons and cheapest that the 5 gal pail can be had at is near $280-290 (can't find cheaper it seems).

Amsoil, Eneos, Castrol, Valvoline, Motul and OE ATFs/CVTFs are all good so long as the users stick to reasonable self-prescribed (and not over-maintained) drain or full flush intervals. Say every 60K or 30K for spirited driving severe service, especially in harsher climates (either on the cold or hot end of the spectrum). The other important consideration is for the average fluid temp to stay within the goldilock 100-180F range for as long as possible during use.

Priceless quotes. Investment or not, bait-n-switch rehashing of old products with a different body style (historically) has never been a good move. I feel sorry for the poor Alfa Giuletta for ending up under the skin of the 200 and Dart, both forgetful like the old 300C (aka MB W211 E class) or the Crossfire (aka MB R170 SLK). FSA, Daimler, Chrysler never learn. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfa_Romeo_Giulietta_(940)

Repair parts database (assembly and sub-assembly diagrams and part #s) are finally up across the various Subaru parts online sites. Turns out the 8-9 Ascent model/trim combos for 2019 get three working fluid temp stabilizers (on top of the vanilla engine coolant + radiator and fan combo found on all water cooled ICEs). 1. EGR cooler (using coolant) 2. CVTF temp stabilizer (using coolant) same little unit found on the WRX, Levorg, XV, Impreza, Legacy/Outback and Forester with any CVT (vanilla and TR580/690s) 3. Engine Oil temp stabilizer (using stack/plate radiator found on JDM S4 S207, tS, etc but there used as an aux CVTF cooler, plus oil filter sandwich plate and rail and hose feeds) Stack/plate and mounting bracket sub-assembly is ~$189 (cheapest thus far). So its confirmed, no additional CVTF cooler on the Ascent. JDM part used as an engine oil cooler instead. Perhaps the strategy is indirect CVTF cooling. Cooling the engine oil so that it doesn't exceed +200/2xxF too often can cause a domino effect where the coolant stays at a more stable/lower temp, and will not warm the CVTF more than it should.

I have old-man amnesia but with the rebuilt engine, are the injectors all new? In-tank pre-filter sock and in-tank fuel pump paper filter and in-engine bay (if you have it) fuel filters new? Sounds to me that you could correlate the misfires with Injector PW/DC (try to log that and see what you get). I bet if the PW is low enough (hence the 0mph, in/out of gear, etc) then you get misfires, as soon as the PW goes up a tad because of higher RPM and vehicle speed, and the bump is providing more fuel - this overcomes the minor clog limitation and bam - no misfires. Just a theory. I guess another way to test this is to artistically raise the injector PW at 0 RPM by re-scaling the injectors a bit with a smaller scalar value, but then you'd need to scale the latency too

Nice mate, many of us non-Oz USDM BM/BR9s run 245/45R18s.

Yup, all known, I was hoping for something new. You can ignore the sales reps and technicians - they are clueless and resort to regurgitating marketing bs. Only techs that know what they're talking about are locked away in honten R&D labs and Nihon-jin sub-contracting vendor sites. Service interval has more to do with Subaru finally waking up and coming to their senses with the maintenance free lifetime fluid bs on earlier MY cars. That plus the gross weight and towing capacity of the Ascent. WRX/Levorg GTS should list 60K but of course dont. Part number myth has been debunked years ago. Same old TR690, minor or no revisions. Subaru changes the last few digits of the transmission assembly model to model and per region on same MY cars. We saw this with old Legacy DIT vs first current-gen FXTs vs then current-gen WRX, Levorg. Granted here they did possibly change a few things, however not enough to warrant a Gen3 HT-CVT, still a TR690.