Perscitus

We have a thread (or two) on this topic... last few years more and more companies have come to market with OEM-replacement NAVs for us. Thing is it gets a bit tricky to get all the functionality (steering wheel controls, etc.) depending on model year. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/all-things-navigation-map-updates-included-239442p3.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-new-oem-style-nav-arrived-today-236081.html?t=236081&highlight=aftermarket+nav http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-factory-navigation-systemi-227603.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/aftermarket-nav-good-truei-180756.html I've had good luck with my Myron&Davis (Rosen) unit which runs an old flavor of Windows CE (5.x I believe). Its simple, a bit primitive but looks OEM, fits great, all controls working, plus with a bit of 'hacking' I'm able to run the latest iGo Primo on it (with 2014 maps, soon 2015 maps). http://www.nng.com/igo-primo

Yup, that's perfect - especially if you add them upfront in stock or near-stock locations. This way you can do this: Raptor Headers (2.25" ID at the runner exit flange) 2.5" ID section of pipes 2.5" Vibrant or Magnaflow metal HF/UHF cats 2.5" or 3" ID section of pipes into CBE

Very very little. Only on cold startup and under WOT. Adding the bottle style resonators somehow eliminated ~60-75%. (perhaps NOx, COx, etc. are getting at least partially trapped in the baffle/perforations and/or burning off some in there?) I'm not a fan of the mod, but it was the only way to go with what we had on hand. The AFRs are good enough that not much unburned fuel is making it into the exhaust too. My brother followed me all the way home (65+ miles, including some city driving and back to back traffic stops) and did not notice anything different (windows open, fan on low/medium, no re-circulation). One solution: http://www.aptuned.com/VIB-7102 http://www.aptuned.com/VIB-7101 Another one (lol): http://pitstopusa.com/i-5068699-power-plus-banana-blast-fuel-fragrance-only-4-oz-bottle.html http://pitstopusa.com/i-10298367-power-plus-cinnamon-fuel-fragrance-4-oz.html http://pitstopusa.com/i-10298371-power-plus-green-apple-fuel-fragrance-4-oz.html

Yeah that 2.5i diagram actually looks like our 5th gen 3.6R exhaust.

Surprise surprise, looks like the same POS/POC: 2015 3.6R CVT http://parts.subaru.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B15_44001581.png vs. 2015 2.5i CVT/6MT http://parts.subaru.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B15_44001580.png http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2015&modelName=legacy36l-cvt-4wd&ukey_assembly=6464126&ukey_category=54102&assembly=b15-440-04 http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2015&modelName=legacy25l-cvt-4wd&ukey_assembly=6464122&assembly=b15-440-03

Its actually an issue of flow and EGTs. With the Raptor headers (regardless of intake - stock, Takeda or custom) the CFMs out the headers and the EGTs the frontal area of the stock cats are seeing are BOTH way too much for them. Even if you open them up to say 2.25 or 2.5" ID. Initially they are fine, but with time they can't take the heat (I logged 1400F with normal highway driving, some spirited, most just cruising at 55-65mph). The substrate begins to separate from the casing, chips, cracks at the edges creating hot spots as the exhaust gases follow the path of least resistance, accelerating the process. The substrate itself starts to overheat and collapse on itself (each cell becoming smaller) which is most apparent in the dead center of the substrate material. When we pulled the OEM cats off my car, they were NOT very bad yet, but created enough restriction to raise back-pressure (especially spikes @ tip-in, CL->OL, etc.) enough to cause random misfires. They are all gone now without them. High-flow cats will be OK but should be installed a bit further back than the OEM location (see my latest setup). This does two things: 1. helps them 'live' longer 2. effectively extends the header runners (typical mod on racecars to increase low and mid-range torque). I'd recommend going with either Vibrant metal or Magnaflow spun-metal cats. Vibrant cats are a bit hard to come by since they no longer manufacture them. Doesn't really matter if OBDI or OBDII (bungs can always be welded before and after the cats) since high-flow cats without tuning and turning off the secondary (narrow-band) lambda sensor will likely fail emissions anyway. Do not get ceramic substrate cats (even if high-flow). The CFMs/EGTs we saw will eventually cause them to fail just like the OEM units... and ironically enough, potentially faster. Al and Rob both have a very well developed opinion and mod path for our exhaust systems by now. They have 2 OEM 3.6R headers and y-pipes sitting in the shop just to remind them how ridiculous they are - in fact the headers and runners are SMALLER and flow worse than the OEM part on a FB2.0i and FB2.5i!

Not really lean... just leaner than Bank 1, which is properly calibrated/tuned. I'll try to get some sound clip vids up in the next few weeks.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/install_guides/GrimmSpeed_FA20_boost_control_solenoid_Install_Guide.pdf http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43358369&postcount=147

he he he - she's still close to 360ft-lbf... maybe 355-370 ft-lbf (depending of which pull we did). Pump AKI93 E10 gas tune. The engine would make more power and safely if we could get control of the 2nd bank of cylinders. Until then, timing gets pulled due to cylinder 2 and 6... 4 running a bit hot as a result (evident in visual inspection of the header runners). Luckily she's NA and doesn't mind the slight lean condition across the Bank 2 cylinders... but once we can control that (Rob is close!) then the car should pickup some power throughout. The main reason for the y-pipe changes had to do with DD, sound, cop radar, etc. We finally have a PERFECT solution that will work for any/all 3.6Rs and keep the exhaust tone almost the same as pre-headers. You still get all the benefit of installing them and the sound is more exotic but even less drone, and nicer deeper tone.

Re: pipe sizing - its all in my build thread, and a few and a few dozen pages back in this thread. Re: high temp coating - No, we left the headers as-is to make spotting any issues (overheating, leaks) easier. I just drove back home and she sounds great again! Quiet under cruise, very nice rumble under WOT or engine breaking. Longer runners seemed to have added some low-end torque too and the different lambda bong locations seem to have helped clear up some phantom/noise FKCs. While we had her on the lift, Al also helped me install front and back Perrin end-links. Fronts were factory installed and helped up well after 60K, rear were adjustable Whitelines - one of them beat, the other always loosened itself after a few K and needed to be re-adjusted. What a difference with the Perrins!

Some moarh work in progress pics... for posterity lol.

Minor changes, the y remains the same but we are replacing the catless cats from frozenboost with some Vibrant bottle style SS resonators. Reason for this is the catless cats were not welded correctly internally resulting in fuel getting into the baffles and burning with raspy pops under WOT. Drove me crazy. No such issues with straight pipes and hopefully this new setup. Added benefit, moarh quiet.

Y-pipe R&D continues... attempt 2, welding and design by Al AutoMaster, racecar genius. I dont want to jinx it (likely just did, lol) but if all goes well 2nd time will be the charm.

Yup. Its been part of my catback setup from the day I put the catback on, loong before the headers and custom-y. Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator (3" ID, 14" long flavor for clearance, 18" might fit but would be tight). I'm also adding two Vibrant Bottle-style 2.5" ID resonators in-place of the cats/cat-less cats this week. I'll keep everyone updated on how that goes and sounds.

Yup, same is true of the Perrin EBCS design. They set it up to vent to atmosphere... or be plugged. ugh.

Nothing yet in terms of driveline upgrades. We're only adding the Rallitek 5EAT insert, and potentially some Whiteline rear diff inserts to tighten things down a bit. I also have a ATF cooler bypassing the radiator, ATF fully flushed out with Amsoil Signature Series ATF. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-multi-vehicle-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/ Like this - she seems happy as-is, no issues. With the headers, there is enough torque (especially low and mid-RPM) that I rarely ever go WOT or need to downshift - unless I just feel like having some fun and listening to the engine/exhaust tone. On the highway, she's happy between 1.5-2K RPM, sometimes even 1.3K is enough, just cruising along. Personally I'm not a fan of E85, so no - she's only getting fed AKI93/E10 (typically E5-E7 in the Tri-State area) pump gas. City driving with the most recent changes, I'm averaging 23mpgs. For me at least vs earlier, that's an uptick. I'll see what I get all-highway - previously typically ~28-30mpg (best ever: 32.3 mpg).

Frozenboost.com ncfree! I am going to swap them out though because since the day we installed them, under certain conditions, I get air/fuel pinging inside of them (since they are baffled). Its almost inaudible in the cabin, but very annoying if you roll the windows down or listen to the car go through its passes from the outside. We will be switching to regular straight pipes and welding my stock cat heat shields over them for the proper look. This will alleviate the issue. The y is a glorious 2.5" ID now (throughout) and mates with the header flange (2.25" ID) and the catback/resonator section flange (3" ID) nicely. In essence: header ports -> 2.25" raptor runner flange -> 2.5" y -> flex joint -> 3" resonator/catback. Works and sounds great. Almost V8 like. As soon as I have the baffled catless cats issue corrects, I'll record some sound clips/videos. Throttle response has improved tremendously, almost to the point of being twitchy. I had to dial the DBW controller back down a notch, lol. Power comes on strong and the engine pulls to well north of three digits. I shut her down before I was able to see when she runs out of breath. Bank 2 tuning needs to be sorted so that the ECU timing correction and knock strategy doesn't step in and castrate the output after a few pulls. Once we have that as good as Bank 1 is now - I think 330-350 and 380-400ft-lbf are very possible without any internal mods or FI like Rob and Golferdude reports! We are actually almost there now

Some AutoMaster, AMR and Raptor goodness...

This! Another option in the game of enabling

It might be possible, Rob tunes with COBB APs too, but I can't confirm what he can /can't do with it Give him a shout: sales @ amrperformance.com or (two zero three) six one six five one thirty. Yes, an EBCS should smooth out the boost curve and prevent boost spikes as well as hold higher boost better than a stock unit or the WG spring itself. This image from Grimmspeed illustrates it well: http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5000/8fmm9av/product_images/uploaded_images/bcs-subaru-fa20-5-original.jpg?t=1428334494.jpg

Yes, they can implement it I believe with both Ecutek and open source tunes. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2684917 AMR Performance Exclusive Enhance Features: Air/Fuel "Lean" Failsafe: IF the vehicle runs lean under boost, boost is automatically lowered for safety. [*]Knock Failsafe: If the vehicle pulls an extensive amount of timing due to bad gas, or other factors, boost is lowered automatically. [*]OVER BOOST Protection: Vehicle cuts all boost if target boost is over shot. For the 2015 WRX, target boost can be dynamically changed using steering wheel controls (you can set a limit, say 15psi, 10 psi or even 0 psi to get home or get to a tuner/dealership with the turbo effectively disabled. [*]Driver Controlled "on-the-fly" Launch Control (2008+ Vehicle(s) Only) [*]Driver Controlled "on-the-fly" Flat-Foot Shifting (2008+ Vehicle(s) Only) [*]Enhanced Throttle Response (2008+ Vehicle(s) Only) [*]Real Traction Control (2015 Subaru WRX Only) [*]LIVE Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR) Dash Display (2015 Subaru WRX Only) -

Grimmspeed is shipping to tuners tomorrow. Their design and design considerations make sense to me: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43289953&postcount=105 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2713799 Testing done on the Perrin unit yesterday left us unimpressed and disappointed. Could be a faulty unit, but the initial impression was made. Agreed with acumenhokie that these are not really needed @ Stage 1 or 2 (LGT/new WRX). In fact, they are likely not really needed without an upgraded turbo. If installed, sometimes even tuned for and working correctly, they will be fine (overkill though) to have even on a stock car. If faulty, malfunctioning (sticking) or not tuned for on a Stage 1 or 2 without some form of over-boost protection - these can cause catastrophic damage.

Rob talked extensively about your car and tune. He said you are so pleased with the latest Boomba TB tune revision, you don't even need the next/potentially final one. And we both LOOOVE the way your engine sounds doing laps @ Laguna Seca.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5117782&postcount=16831

For anyone looking to LIFT their Legacy/Outback, Liberty/Legacy Wagon: http://www.autocityimports.com//1012-legacy-lift-kits-c-3938_4419_4623.html