Perscitus

Seeing both of these today led me to consider that depending on preference and personal choice either one could be an owner's a. daily beater b. track toy or of course neither (even if compensated for it) The concrete jungle harbours an endless array of automotive gems and disasters...

Its very easy stuff. OE battery is meh beyond meh, but if its new stick with it for now and skip the Alt S fuse until you get an AGM battery. 10 days in May or anytime temps are above say 60F is no big deal. No need to start it, actually best not to. If anything, Id get a kill switch and istall it. Drive her until you leave, park, kill switch on. Come back, kill switch off, battery still fully charged up after 10-14 days. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=psdcmw_15719961_t1_B00099YOV8

Humble, since you live in Chicagoland and get fairly cold winters, if you intend to keep the 3.6R for a while, get a good AGM battery, skip the voltage stabilizer, install an ALT-S fuse voltage booster and a negative terminal kill switch to retain a good charge when parked overnight, over weekend or days at a time in winter. AGM and Alt-S fuse are best bang for the buck. H6s have the beefiest OE alternator, good grounds and decent lead wires so only the output V and battery specs are lacking.

All those specs and part numbers are directly from Subaru, I just collated them for us. They are accurate as far as I could tell back then. The thermostat makes a big difference but for a full effect, yes, either new radiator and coolant flush AND/OR changes to the fan control modes in the ECU (easy if accessable by your t00ner and t00n solution).

Yup

Early Spring weekend? Join us for an inner-city fund raiser!!! Local government employee mortgage and 'luxury' vehicle donations most welcome! Infra repair? Nah, thats so 1920-1950s. We dont do that no more.

hmm - I guess the wheels don't have pockets on the backplate of the hub mating surface to allow for the 17mm spacers to work, yes? And even if they did - adding that 17mm spacer into the mix with a wheel offset of +45 gives you an effective offset of +28 (!) I think your best bet might be to return the +45 wheels and go with 19x8.5 +40s or +35s and skip the spacers. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=205&aspect=45&diameter=18&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=38&width2=245&aspect2=35&wheel_size=19&wheel_width=8-5&offset2=45

For the days LegacyGT wants to film those fast action scenes in glorious 8K @ 120fps...

Daily beater level - god

The full part number is exposed Herda, google is your friend. Plus Joe posted about these in at least 4 threads... one or two included details and links from him or replies to him. And if all else fails, almost all bushing/insert manufacturers who make parts for Subarus have such inserts for the 5th gen, so you can pick and choose based on price, color, material, manufacturer of choice.

Open call to any of you who are tuned by either Ed or Matt or anyone actually so long as your Subaru Legacy/Outback is a 2015-2018. Could you please share the ROM definitions you are using to Flash these to the car if you are using EcuFlash to do so? I AM NOT looking or interested in your tunes, just the definitions that allow you to flash these newer Hitachi ECUs on the 6th gen Legacy 2.5i and 3.6R as well as the 5th gen Outbacks. Its very likely the definitions you have as end-users are skeleton/basic ones with few defined tables, but thats fine - I dont need them to be complete or what Ed or Matt are using, just a confirm that you are able to flash any non OE tunes to the ECUs using the definitions you have. Please post any such definitions here. You can find them in your EcuFlash definitions/metadata folders. Should be XML.

Yes, this SEMA-destined thing was done I think sometime in 2010-2011. We talked about it back then. Its actually a one-off imported non-USDM Legacy/Liberty wagon, 'pimped' late 90s, early 00s style.

Welcome to the club Humble and congrats! The car is coming along nicely.

You won't find them there, sadly. RR has dried up, first because main contributors went MIA, were scooped up by CoBB or Ecutek or just moved on from the thankless work that goes into reverse-engineering the ROMs, coming up with table definitions and keeping the RR software alive. Everyone who makes definitions for the Hitachi-based ECUs seems to keep the definitions to themselves. I wouldn't be surprised if they use SubaruEdit over RR/EcuFlash and just let the end-users reflash the ROMs using EcuFlash (given the ease of use and setup). Both Ed and Matt must have whatever they've defined for 2015-2018s (2.5is and 3.6Rs) and I haven't seen any of that in circulation.

You will want to start with a definition for a previous CALID for the same market/model year 6th gen and then fine tune the memory addresses and column/row offset metadata if any of the table defs look off in terms of data they display. Best to have a well or semi well defined previous ROM to compare against. Memory addresses tend to change from OE reflash to reflash and certainly from model year to year, even the same gen. So I highly doubt the latest updated charging logic ROMs have been defined. Start with any defined USDM 2015 Legacy or Outback 3.6R, ideally for a CALID not too far behind the latest that you have.

SBT - how about those pics from 3/22 Atlanta AS? Even phone camera craptastic or 800x600 resized images will do. BTW NYIAS is not that amazing, its fairly meh... and has been for about 15 years now. As much a function of the times as of what the industry is selling.

I'd skip the M3 or 335is if I were him and just keep the LGT, but whatever floats his boat I guess. 21K - yeah, right. More like reverse those digits and try 12-15K.

Pictures, or it didn't happen SBT! Door cards, engine bay, any labels showing some spec details, part numbers.

Mine is sometime in September 2009, purchased in Jan/Feb 2010 if I recall. Originally it even had a very early ECUID/CALID that I havent seen on any other 2010 3.6Rs, and gloss black fuel rail covers (a tell tale sign of an early production 2010).

Yes, Ive been running 18x8.5 ET45 wrapped in 245/45 for a few years. And I believe we had a 2.5i -> LGT owner local to me run 245/45R18s first maybe 5-6 years ago. There was also a great 19 setup many years ago in the Silver car photo gallery section. Either 245/40 or 245/45R19 with a slightly more aggressive offset, stock suspension.

of course we do.... http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5467518&postcount=1744 BtSsm (software) and BtSsm or a few other dongles/cables (hardware) are your friends. http://btssm.com/ http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-v-2-267811.html Aside from an ECU reset and idle/tps relearn, you should also perform a TCU reset and transmission relearn procedure (outlined in a few threads and PDFs, shop manual, vacation pix floating around). Thats only if you opt to do it yourself, else a dealership (any around the globe can perform the steps).

Just as ugly though... if not uglier. What happened to our quirky brand with few creature comforts, fewer gadgets and gizmos but plenty of drivetrain and engine spunk? It's become more vanilla than Toyota/Honda/Nissan, Kia/Hyundai and Chevy/GM combined. I guess so long as it sells them more sheet metal, more power to them. But in the process, Subaru lost its soul. To me thats a loss, no matter what Mr Doll or head office suits in Japan may say or see once the accountants finish cooking the books in late March.

Foresteeerrraaah!!! https://www.carscoops.com/2018/03/2019-subaru-forester-appears-surface-ahead-new-york-debut/ (meh meh meh)

SS 1LE will fit right in around Queens, especially in Track Package flavor with PDR. That Magnetic RC suspension should help mute all the potholes, and left lane man-hole covers on the LIE and GCP.

Same for the Perrin steering lock down or Alt-S fuse mods and probably countless others lol