Perscitus

Yeah, its a fairly decent looking GM re-badge of the Opel Insignia Kombi (aka Sport Tourer), best had in OPC trim (should be out next year or so) with the proper engine (hopefully they actually bring it across the pond this time around - unlike the 1st gen Buick Regal GS Turbo, which was a watered down and extra-heavy cut of the Insignia OPC). Too bad the new one doesn't get the great EDM spec headlights, being 'luxury' and all. http://www.autobild.de/artikel/opel-insignia-sports-tourer-2017-11279999.html

As much as I respect law enforcement and couldn't care less if they stopped or screened me 1 or 1,000 times (got nothing to hide) - above still doesn't explain why its a clear double standard... regular citizens' cars - no tint, many cops' private cars (while off duty aka basically also regular citizens) - limo or 20 tint on all windows including windshield... not to mention rampant speeding in said cars (#becausefriendsdontpulloverfriends). Of course this doesnt apply to all cops, but in the TriState - many too many! 50 or 60 tint all-around on an aging Subaru, beater CamCorrd, new Stinger, etc must be safer than limo tint on the rear windshield in a Charger or an Escalade (with shotguns pointed at the patrol car tailgating the Escalade). Yet the former tint config is now illegal, while the later - totally legal. Makes no sense. Either all or nothing. I'm indifferent to tint (although some clear film with UVB/UVA protection goes a long way to keep the interior decent for a decade or more plus helps keep the interior cooler in the summer), just dont agree with lazy bandaid legislation that solves nothing. I'd much rather they revoke registrations for failed brake/shock/tire checks every 12 months, or implement mandatory annual or semi-annual driver tests for seniors (say 65+). Too slow to react or cant see road signs? License revoked, 5 decades was plenty.

Very interesting. Indeed, none of the FA/BA USDM offerings got the stock JDM/ADM CVT cooler (optional on most JDM/ADM FA20DIT equipped cars, stock on WRX S4 tS and S207s), not even as an option. This abomination (EDIT: this here Ascent) most likely will. Said OE aux. CVTF cooler (likely present here too):

Jorge - should've pinged me - plenty of places will still pass you and I know at least three (besides, just look at all the NYPD privately owned cars with limo-tint, including on the front windshield proudly sporting the new grey emissions stickers - awesome double standard boys!) Stupid legislation always gets my blood boiling, including the pointless PR stunt that is vision zero. Instead of cracking down on tint (BTW technically the latest-gen S-class can't legally register in NYS because its stock tint level in the glass is above/beyond the allowable limit) the geniuses in Albany should crack down on other aspects of car inspection that actually have something to do with safety... brakes, shocks (on-car shock testing machines), tire wear, headlight/taillight output. Just like its done (at least on paper) in Europe. Only problem is that would either a. put 80% of the cars on the roads out of commission (public outcry, not too good for them ratings) or b. cost too much to implement and even more to police (so it will never get done) Much better to just impose 15mph speed limits (which won't help anyone if a statistical Darwin-award recipient decides to run a light and run over a kid while doing 50 in a 20/25) but perception is king and speed limits and cheap to implement. Not to mention the various other bs checks at inspection to rack up more 'taxes' when the penalties, fees, tickets start feeding city hall and state budgets. woohoo

Grab a needle (best) or a thin paper clip (careful) and proceed to poke the nozzle heads lol. The nozzle heads can and will plug up or freeze up locally.

Spot on FLlegacy! The 11.14:1 or 11.x:1 is more of a AF/Lambda sensor calibration limit set in the stock and most tunes. It's what Subaru decided the Denso wideband AF sensor is 'good' to in terms of perceived accuracy and so they a. scaled it and b. pegged it to read no richer than 11.x:1. What this translates to is that your AP or any other monitor/logger will typically show the sensor readout down to 11.x:1 and get pegged. So you might be hitting that 11.x:1 if your AF Error is low or you might actually be running a point or two richer and you'd never know without an independent wideband. Some guys have had luck experimenting and getting the stock sensor to read 'accurately' down to about 10.4-10.5:1, rescaling and expanding the readable range to that ratio using a proper windeband for reference. By doing so your monitor/logger or AP will see AFRs down to 10.4:1 on stock hardware. But to what end and to what real benefit? Once you need something like this, you might as well just install a full-time independent wideband sensor or use one for tuning only and call it a day.

A few vendors (including our forum vendors I believe) sell them pre-cut to shape. I don't remember where I got mine, too many years ago. Measure the diameter or radius as they usually have a pick-list for that or will ask when ordering. The only other matter to confirm for the 2013+ is are the fogs still JDM H16 aka USDM H11? Is so, these should work as-is, if however Subaru switched the socket a bit to some other socket type (I think they did if my memory is still at least partially intact)... some creative work or adapters might be needed. We had some fun years ago realizing the ADM Liberty fogs were different from USD and actually have 2 bulbs in them making USDM<->ADM swaps tricky.

Good call with the Lamin-x (hopefully clear) overlays Joe. I installed a pair over a set of replacement OEM fog housings after I replaced my originals maybe 5 years ago. After just 3 years the unprotected stock ones were pitted and sandblasted into dim foggy oblivion (as one of the comments above), the replacements are still clear and undamaged thanks to the Lamin-x... 5 years and counting. Soap water and a heatgun or a good hairdryer help with the install, but the perimitter doesnt have to be perfect, any folds and imperfections beyond the lense get hidden behind the bezel anyway.

Finally some info! Joe the master of building anticipation and FoGTEASing! So that's Subaru, Ford, Mazda, Toyota various model year cars - same fog housings. At least the 5th gens finally get something out of the recent-gen Mustang, of all places!

Interesting indeed, maybe the vanilla CVT has 8 steps now too and/or gained S # mode.

The HT-CVT manual mode stepping varies from model to model. Some vehicles only come with 6 'gears' (FXT), some 8 (WRX, S4, Levorg). Its a function of TCU programming and SI drive config or presence/lack thereof. Cars with S# typically have 8 rations, cars with S only have 6. 2015+ Legacy/Outback 3.6R HTCVT: High-torque CVT in manual mode: 1st gear 3.105, 2nd 1.983, 3rd 1.454, 4th 1.057, 5th 0.779, 6th 0.543. Final 4.111 CVT in automatic Drive mode continuously varies between 3.105-0.542 2015+ Legacy/Outback 2.5i vanilla CVT CVT in manual mode: 1st gear 3.581, 2nd 2.262, 3rd 1.658, 4th 1,208, 5th 0.885, 6th 0.618. final 4.111 CVT in automatic D mode continuously varies between 3.581-0.618 2015-2018 WRX HTCVT I, S modes, 6 CVT settings 1st 3.505, 2nd 2.238, 3rd 1,641, 4th 1.194, 5tyh 0.880, 6th 0.611. Final drive 3.90 S# mode, 8 CVT settings 1st 3.505, 2nd 2.405, 3rd 1.855, 4th 1.544, 5th 1.258, 6th 1.032, 7th 0.856, 8th 0.716. Final drive 3,90 CVT Si drive "gear" setting ratios- Si Drive with 3 driver selectable drive modes I intelligent mode for best economy, 6 CVT settings, S sport mode for more power, 6 CVT settings S# sport sharp mode for best performance, 8 CVT settings

Finally Michelin woke up are started to offer these in North America: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=CrossClimate%2B Now, hopefully just a question of time until they come in 18s, 19s and more practical non-SUV/CUV and soccer practice mobile specs like in Europe... but hey its a start. And for those running stock 16/17s on their non-LGTs, this is a great and likely best option on the market today. EU market has these extra CrossClimate+ sizes in 18s... 235/45R18, 245/45R18, 225/40R18, 225/45R18. Thats it. Basically a Summer tire with Winter certification or a Winter tire capable of dedicated Summer performance when applicable. A whole new breed of tire, not your typical All-year heavy compromise.

The rabbit hole is bottomless. The PCV hose didn't come with clamp from the factory and sadly no good vaccuum hose diagram exists for the H6s to serve as a guide. MAP sensor vac hoses and filter, intake vac hose, PCV hose, EGR vac hose, brake booster vac hoses, vac hoses on the back of the manifold near the throttle body dbw/tps motor housing. If you're still on the OE PCV, get a new one while at it, cheap and 5 minutes to swap out.

Sounds like a plan. If you're feeling adventureous... You can also pickup a Tribeca or older-gen 3.0R block off plate (its actually an OE part), ask Ed to zero out the EGR steps table, see if there are any EGR timing additive tables to adjust too and potentially turn off a few DTCs and enjoy knock-free (or mostly free) cruise RPM/Load, lower manifold temps, better Bank 1/2 agreement and better mid-range TQ, all off-road only of course.

Tim you can skip the Boostane testing, I used to even be 'sponsored' by them a few years ago, not worth it and not needed on the EZ36D, in fact similarly to Torco and a few other like products, it will coat your spark plugs, AF and O2 sensors and entire exhaust track innards with a copper/orange colored ash/dust (which in and of itself is no issue but can shorten the lifespan of the plugs and sensors).

Looks good, except no cats (?). Bring on the rasp! Would be good to add the stock/stock-like bracket that holds the y-pipe in place as well. Get some resonator on the mid-pipe while you're at it (otherwise drone galore regardless of catback setup). Make sure to locate your front AFR/lambda sensors EXACTLY in their stock positions (distance relative from the exhaust ports) otherwise you and your tuner/s will be stock in an infinite loop with getting the tune right. Turn off fueling contributions from the rear O2 sensors (AF Learn/Correct #3/4) and disable all Rear O2 sensor related codes if you plan to run catless, o2-less or even if you install 200-400 cell core cats.

Correct, mine had a built date in Sep/Oct 2009 I believe. Naturallly bumper covers and some other random plastics had 2009 dates QC stickers too.

Why stop at 2? Get at least 5 in different colors to be able to drive a different one each day. Order on-line 3 years in advance and pay cash on delivery.

Yup cant beat them 1000Nm of tq, sub 9 sec 1/4 mile, sub 2 sec 0 to 60, 3 motor AWD setup, and 600+ mile range.. oh and thats the base model. Then haul it cross country in your satin black electric SEMI. RIP ICE

Hey Humble, stick with OE intake. This thing gives a lot of tuning headaches (two-three years ago Ed had some horror stories) and still suffers from the typical intake tract resonance that messes with the MAF signal at the worst possible times on both the EZ30R/Ds and EZ36Ds. All 3.6R intakes (including the Raptor prototype unicorns that never took off) are a far cry from the consistency of the stock intake setup. I should know, I tried almost all, including many custom intake solutions and maybe a dozen or so filter media form factors, materials, etc. The intake is not a limiting factor on these cars until well past the output any N/A 3.6R can hope to see.

Great idea with the custom screen, you should PM 'heiche' and see if he can help you along or maybe build a version of BtSsm under Python. You could effectively get the outputs you need today on an embedded Android-tablet or a phone or any device running Android (either via Bluetooth or hard-wired into the OBDII port).

The best ones are not available in the US/Canada markets with no plans from their manufacturers to offer them anytime soon (go figure)... You can think of them as the next-gen All-Seasons or better yet either winter-bias all season (Goodyear below) or summer-bias all seasons (Michelin below). Michelin CrossClimate+ Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen-2 http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2017-Auto-Bild-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/92863/all-season-tyres-test-20162017-top-all-weather-tyres-tested http://www.evo.co.uk/features/15600/michelin-cross-climate-vs-winter-and-all-season-tyres

Might have been, impossible to tell without before/during/after data logs with appropriate fields and decent sampling rate. See how she goes and if you continue to get misfires and startup issues once you have her back. You can also just clean it yourself using CRC MAF Cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503948675&sr=1-2&keywords=CRC+MAF+cleaner Or buy a new Denso sensor. Far cheaper and actually a tad better than the OEM (re-branded Denso) unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378G8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Start-up grind = 100% starter motor as foxrider said. All too common Subaru issue.

Sounds rather odd. Perhaps something to do with the fuel pump and/or fuel delivery (given the age and location, less so mileage). Those fluctuating RPMs could point to a faulty TPS (Throttle position sensor) and/or some issue other electrical gremlins. Hopefully its not something ECU<->TCU related where the 5EAT TCU is getting into an odd feedback loop with the ECU based on whatever the valve body or TC are doing as the TCU attempts to control them at idle and cold startup. When did you last drive it without issue? MAF, MAP sensors, Intake, Exhaust all stock? When the dealership services the coil packs did they check the injectors?

Front sensor/s on recent/current-gen Subarus are 'bastardized' widebands (read ~ accurate down to about 11:1, nothing lower) are are referred to as 'AF Sensors' or 'Lambda sensors' (Bank 1, Sensor 1 on H4s plus Bank 2, Sensor 1 on H6s). The rear sensor/s are the old-school narrow-band 'O2 sensors' and yes, mainly used to monitor cat healthy/efficiency BUT on all recent Subarus (say 2005+) they DO have an impact on fueling contributions (and hence A/F errors). You can see how your O2s are impacting fueling by monitoring/logging: 'AF Learn #3" and 'AF Correct #3" for H4s plus 'AF Learn #4" and 'AF Correct #4" for H6s Add these up (per bank of cylinders) with your #1/2 learn/correct readings to get a true representation of fueling corrections (really just an effect on Injector PWs). For anyone looking to replace stock cats with something aftermarket and a tad cheaper (but still OBD-II and EPA/CARB, Cali-emissions compliant), best to go with GESI units (branded by Vibrant but produced in Canada by GESI). http://www.vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1527_1326 You can typically get them far cheaper if you shop around online (Jegs, Autoplicity, THMotorsports, CarID, TunerSports)