Perscitus

Jorge - Ive got otwo names for you... MelJohns Auto in Ridgewood... and Darek the Subaru master tech working there. Darek is my longtime friend, and here you wouldve saved $100-120 on labor. Added benefit, hes done it all on the 5th gens - from TMICs, turbos, starters, diffs, suspensions, inserts, engine overhauls, etc.

MX5s are fun, even the new ones, but as you know Timmy, a car is sadly never an investment (even the auction house mint machines that appreciate today) . Just a eventually deprecieating asset/liability (depending on how you look at it and what its used for. And if the big kahoonas in my industry are to be believed (never trusted) the next 6-12 months will likely bring another large markets correcting event. And when that happens, real estate ownership will also drop off the list of practical investments. Paid higher education too. I'd invest in drinking water and land, as far away fron cities as possible.

Yup, recently did a full drain and fill on my brother's 2015+ WRX HT-CVT. We used the drain plug, fill level-check plug and then the plugs ont he passenger side of the axle to top her off while up to temp (~140F CVTF temp in the valve body). She took about 6 quarts of Amsoil CVTF and runs great. Another drain and fill in the Spring (to get the fresh fluid ratio up) and then again next Summer/Fall (bringing her up to almost all Amsoil and no Subaru fluid) Mind you the car is also fitted with the Setrab oil cooler (which takes almost an extra 0.5/0.75 qt of fluid) and the lines needed to route it to and from the area behind the front grill.

Does it really matter? Its actually spelled out in all the for sale ads, classifieds etc. Time to move on, let someone else enjoy her. Likely moving across one of the ponds for work and dont want to ship car. Dont need two cars and already have the replacement. Tired, grumpy, old lol

Nothing I can do Humble. Maybe best to just let it be as she represents the ghost of LegacyGT past. vs you guys being the present/future. I highly doubt you will hear much if anything about her again on here. Far more likely to run into her in SoCal, NorCal while driving around. Just listen for that distinct Porsche-like signature note. I will likely pay her a visit in a year or two and capture some update pics, come back here to share.

Yes, laminar flow design is good (HP2 for example), skip the straight through - and don't listen to them re boxer sound - long gone are the days of UEL headers (except on the aging USDM STI). THe H6 is in an entirely different league when it comes to engine sound, exhaust pulses, etc. To keep things simple (as a rule of thumb) I''d say: Option 1: 2.25" ID throughout Headers -> custom Y with GESI cats -> flex section -> Flowmaster HP2 (18") or similar -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18") or similar -> axle-back of choice/mufflers of choice/tips of choice. (The mufflers will be the key deciding factor behind volume and sound) Option 2: 2.25" ID into 2.5" Headers -> custom Y with GESI cats (you can step up to 2.5" here with either the entire Y being 2.5 or just the cats and on being 2.5") -> flex section -> Flowmaster HP2 (18") or similar (this is typically 2.25" ID) -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18") or similar (the other place to step up to 2.5" ID if desired) -> axle-back of choice/mufflers of choice/tips of choice. (The mufflers will be the key deciding factor behind volume and sound). Its most important to: a. weld AF/Lambda sensor bungs EXACTLY at the same distance and ideally even orientation as stock, weld Rear O2s also in their stock distance from the engine unless turning them off via tune b. metal core 300-400+ cell cats (400+ is ideal, unless you do 2 per bank, back to back, like stock) c. good flex (SS, turbo design) d. re-use stock mounting points (Y, etc) e. use the longest mufflers and resonators you can f. make sure mufflers line up well and tips extend out a tiny bit (helps project the sound away from the cabin, trunk area)

Very sad. Yup, first owner, 9 years since 3 miles on the ODO. She never let me down and been through a lot of important life events as well as driven all over New England and up/down the East Coast. The new owners is on here, but he doesn't post much and is unlikely to do so now either (note he is almost MIA with the LGT).

Seems like it, been up for sale since start of July. Off to Cali she goes, fully prepped with tons of goodies in the trunk, glove box and armrest. I have a bunch of parts that will go up for sale in thr classifieds soon (when I get a chance to review whats there, describe, grab pics, post up)

Shipping out, I will miss her, but will go and visit someday.

Loaded her up on a trailer to ship cross country to its new owner! Bitter sweet, very bitter sweet. She's going to a great now home and joining a 5th gen LGT, 4th gen OB (Safari/Surfer mode), and a boosted BRZ. That and she'll live near Joe and Fred's stomping grounds now. Win win.

Its a clever idea, but I'd advise against it for the same reason the OE setup on many AT/CVT cars (including ours) where the radiator hosts a transmission cooler circuit and the coolant is used as a transmission warmer/cooler; temp stabilizer.... is also a bad idea. On paper it sounds great (both from a practical and a bean-counter perspective). In practice, all it takes is some minor internal leaks, cracks, or damage and bam - your ATF/CVTF (or in your case Engine Oil ) is mixing with the Coolant.... not worth the risk. Plus if there are ever engine cooling problems or engine oil problems, I'd rather not have these two temps correlated, especially on an FI Subaru.

You can do 3" and it will fit (mostly) but you'll be paying a hefty premium for the various components if you want to keep a consistent 3" ID throughout Humble. There will actually be little to no performance detriment (or gain) from going full 3" so long as you get the right cats (and maybe even 2-in-line OE style) per bank. 2.75" is not very standard and you'd have a hell of a time finding components (piping is easy, cats, resonators, mufflers, flangers not so much). Avoid all straight-through muffler/resonators (one or two in the flow are OK but not ALL), that's why something like Flowmaster's HP (the type, not just the specific piece) are perfect for these engines. And above all - avoid going true dual. Its very doable with 2.25" but causes all kinds of issues with the tune and knock (no idea why, it just does - see pickler's notes over at RRs forum and on here I think). Once you guys get the headers - your DBW, throttle and requested/calculated tq mappings will need to change - and so will your timing tables. AVCS can likely stay the same or similar. Timing will need to DROP (which is OK), no need for as much timing as stock with the headers to make optimal tq.

Sounds good Timmy. The flow is more of a death-throws impulse reaction. I'm trying to share what I can before I forget it all and disappear into 5th gen past. That day is drawing ever near, I don't have much time left here with the car effectively sold. It was one hell of a ride 2010-2014/5. Yup, no issues with emissions monitors or emissions at all with the Rear O2s effectively disabled (but still plugged in, still active from an ECU perspective). Their only purpose is to monitor cat health, and with HO cats - there is no need for them. Goal-wise, sounds like you're after my setup then. Keep the ID down to 2.25 if you want less boom and drone. Stepping up to 2.5 is OK, but a bit more pricey on all components (some aren't made in >2.5) and going 3.0 is pointless unless super/turbocharged. I'd vote: Header -> into custom y with GESIs or any metal-core 300-400 cell cats welded as far back as possible (AF sensors bungs MUST be in the exact same location and ideally orientation as stock - mark on the frame for reference - this is critical for the injector latencies, fuel trims and other aspects of the tune to not play tricks on Ed). Rear O2s can be installed upstream of the cats if need be, they'll be disabled anyway.... or if you can swing it, also in the exact same location/orientation as stock. This will force the location of the cats though. If you do install the cats further upstream (say OE location of the first set of cats on the OE pipes) then you can even squeeze in a secondary set of cats (just like stock) or tiny resonators on each section of the y. Re-use the stock mounting point for the y! Then -> turbo flex coupler -> FlowMaster HP2 (18 inch version, get it as close to the SS coupler as humanely possible) -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18" ideally) -> catback/axle bac Weld all this stuff with slip-on connections except of course by the headers inlet/outlets - use flanges there. Careful with leaks by the AF and O2 bungs, don't twist or stretch their wires, Good welds downstream of the headers will keep the rest of the exhaust leaks down to a minimum. Sound and volume will become a function of your rear mufflers and exhaust system ID. I'd still vote keep 2.25" throughout... or worse case 2.5" max.

Hey Tim, I'd revise the post above to say 'Front A/F Lambda Sensors' vs 'Rear O2 Sensors'. You don't need the OEM A/F Lambda sensors either - get the Denso generics - better and cheaper - win win. Denso 234-9092 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MD0NBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'd skip both the Rear O2s personally, just ask Ed to turn them off in the tune (AF Learn/Correct #3/4 min/max values, thresholds, etc, associated 1-2 DTCs for cat efficency) and never ever worry about them again. No need to unplug, weld bongs, etc. Just disable, leave plugged in, stealth mod (just like EGR disable on these cars, no need to unplug or remove anything). Benefit - far more stable AFRs and fuel trims this way. Zero impact on emissions readiness or checks. Aside from the Raptor headers, ask Raptor Tim for the flange spacers and use his flanges. Will help with the 26mm FSB. With the money saved I'd urge you pickup Vibrant GESI 2.5" HO cats. They are pricey from the producer or Vibrant directly, but if you shop around you can grab one @ $200-300/each. Well well worth the money. Flow almost as good as catless and still OBDII compliant, no smell, no smoke, 400 cell metal core (you want 400 cell, not less). Get an SS turbo flex coupling. Vibrant 60804 4" is plenty but the inner structure will help you to never have to replace it. I'd skip V-bands/Donut or any clamps - weld away. Exhaust isn't going anywhere after you put it on. At least header to rear axle sections. Resonators - mufflers - if they are small and straight-through with little or no padding material - think resonators, else mufflers. I'd recommend FlowMaster HP2 - doesn't really matter its 2.25": https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-12412304?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-flowmaster&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyY7Ag-ih3gIVBNRkCh169glWEAQYBSABEgLD8PD_BwE If you still have rasp or drone - I'd stick a bottle style Vibrant resonator directly behind it (it will fit nicely in the tight space by the driveshaft just before the rear axle and diff) https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1032_1054&products_id=291&osCsid=c60ccb52e91b53066ed519196e793089 That should do the trick. PS - MAF replacement from Denso: Denso DAC197-6130 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378G8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not UK-only.... more of a whole-world EXCEPT North America (US/CAN).

Check out posts #1456 on... https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2628737&page=59

https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-support-sub-frame~20157aj040.html

Nice Jorge! Same thermostat I've been running for 4 years. Bernie mis-quoted the part numbers through: He lists: 21210AA030 Thermostat (1) + 21236AA010 Gasket (1) Should be: 21200AA072 Thermostat (1) + 21236AA010 Gasket (1) = 21210AA030 Kit (the kit part number for both this specific thermostat and gasket paired with at least 5 others). https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-5th-gen-todayii-vol-2-closed-200439.html?p=4989095&highlight=thermostat#post4989095

SBT - you should pick mine up before someone local snatches it up... ~300bhp/340ft-lbf https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/queens-ny-2010-subaru-legacy-3-6r-premium-270560.html

Now you just need Chris to make you and the other LGTs a bunch of various CKE-SSP inserts; https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cke-ssp-4eat-5eat-trans-mount-inserts-267054.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cvt-transmission-mount-insert-cke-ssp-267950.html?t=267950&highlight=cvt+insert

Have you been running the CVTF in your 2018 OB 3.6R already or planning to drain-n-fill the first time?

Gooood gooooood. Now we can hang.

And to spice things up a little - Fred - if you shave off 1.2 sec and add 10mph to that already mighty impressive 1/4 mile result - you can keep up with my new toy. I'm not saying anything more than that for now... gTEASER style.

Ha! Careful what you ask for Fred! At this point Perscitus would just pickup a wood-frame bike or put on a pair of trusty shoes and walk to that goat farm on the wooded mountain slope bathed in some morning fog.

On a 5th gen the PS fluid should meet Dexron III ATF spec.... which means Dexron VI ATF is also fair game (and actually better). We wrote about this perhaps 6 years ago. Multiple places and threads on the forum discuss PS fluid flushes, drain n fills, fluids used.