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xt2005bonbon

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Everything posted by xt2005bonbon

  1. Got mine from ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256148227614?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J8Hjbd0aR8i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4hu0Z6ZnQZO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  2. Daaang, she is clean! Essentially looks brand new! You're really scored there. I hope she will be stored in a garage.
  3. I changed my reverse switch about a month ago. Same issue as OP. Problem solved after I installed a new switch. I have a wagon. I also thought that was the wiring first, but it was not. It really was the switch.
  4. +1000. Yes, please, check one thing at a time or else you'll get lost and frustrated.
  5. What comes to mind right now is to double check all four long term fuel trims and also the VVT (also called OCV) angles. You have one per bank. When the engine is under load, these two numbers should be in sync. The max values depend on the tune; as an example, mine peaks at 11 deg. When the engine is not under load, these values should be zero. I would also check that. To be fair though, if something was really wrong with the OCVs, it would throw a code like P0011 or P0012. Still, does not hurt to check..
  6. Is she running rough at idle only, or in any driving conditions? Can't remember the details on your car.. But are the 'basics' checking fine? For instance, -correct timing belt teeth count between pulleys as per FSM -white coil packs plugs in the front of the engine (cyl 1 and 2) and black in the back -free of vacuum leaks. Although I'd think you'd need a really massive vacuum leak to begin having misfires. It happened to me a looong time ago when the hoses attached to the blue T under the intercooler popped off. If I read your screenshots right, you have some negative learned fuel corrections which would indicate the opposite (boost leak).
  7. In your case, it does not look like the zip tie was the problem though. These red wires don't look stock.. I don't recall mine being red.
  8. I can't remember... Did you take a pick inside the rubber boots to see if one or more wires are damaged?
  9. I've been using zip ties for a long time on these .
  10. I have changed that part before. It was a long time ago. Not sure if that part is the same between 5MT and 6MT though.
  11. I installed a new EJ257 (type RA) SB in 2020, and yeah I did install ARP head studs. It mostly sees a peak of 17 ish psi but may get up to 19-21 psi depending on how I drive and ambient temps.
  12. I am currently using a GS unit, which came with its own oring/gasket. I did recall hearing that sound prior to using the GS unit. So I thought that would have ruled out a leak. But I did notice some slight oil residue between the IC and turbo.. I only hear it if I get past 19 psi or so (>~3.0 g/rev load). Would this Mr gasket 738G help and be compatible with a GS unit? I guess I should try it..
  13. Well, we go do some light offroading quite often and I have not had mine fail like that. At the same time, mine can't close properly. So I never open it :(.
  14. I actually did replace the front and rear driveshaft ujoints with some Duralast ujoints in 2019. It's now been 60K. Has not exploded on me yet . Just checked my logs: part number was duralast 2-0430dl. 5 spd though. Not 6.
  15. I've been going to Cali a few times this year for a couple of surf sessions, and yeah, I've seen some sketch cars for sure! I was surprised, but now I understand I guess.. Lots of fast cars and and lot more Teslas over there though (LA area).
  16. Before removing the tire, take a rubber mallet and hit the tire multiple times pretty hard around 12oclock, and listen for rattling. Have a helper if possible. The rattling stopped when I began holding the brake hose end (closer to the caliper).
  17. I am going to inspect the other pins this week. I know I re-greased them and changed a couple a few years back (~60K ago). Will be curious to see what I find...
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