xt2005bonbon

Was the laptop connected to your car with ignition on? Once connected, it should show the CAL ID info and stuff (bottom right of your screenshot). Then you'll see all values populated I think.

I don't know if this helps: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2716476. I have not used, or should I say, set up romraider for a loooong time. Can't remember how I did it

Before you download the ROM, have you been able to run romraider and view some ecu parameters with the engine running?

Wait a second here... Is it really a dual range trans? I don't see an aftermarket lever to switch the trans range? I do see, however, some DCCD button.

I don't think the laptop cpu will play a major role in the data resolution. It will be mostly dependent on the Obd2 adapter being used. The tactrix adapter is apparently providing one of the best data rates.

I use ECUFlash to edit my ROM (i.e. tune) and then upload it to the ECU. Laptop must be plugged to the OBD2 port (via Tactrix or something else) to do that. Since the OBD2 port is then used, BtSsm cannot be used at the same time.

When you're under boost, it is helpful to have one to properly tune the car in such condition. Other than that, IMO no. Also, the fact that your O2 sensor is now right after the turbo is actually benefiting you; meaning your stock o2 sensor will provide more accurate reading even under boost.

How did you confirm that the AC drain works fine? Did you actually see water dripping from it while the AC was on? Where do you live?

How many miles on your car? This has happened to both of my cars. The issue was the starter brushes were worn out. 20$ later and my time, it was fixed. I realize your car is a newer gen, but still. Here is the thread. I have yet to add text to it

You could technically use Romraider (free software) installed on a windows machine, paired with your Tactrix device and begin viewing the ECU parameters. That would be helpful for now.

so wait a second... What were you doing with your Tactrix device prior to engine failure?

Where did you hear you should not rev past 3k? What you read is probably related to running the engine into boost I guess. Again, you could drive in your neighborhood at like 15-25 mph and it should be just fine. Then again, I am going back to having the BtSsm app up and running so you're not guessing how everything is running .

Never seen this code before. At the same time, I have a manual trans.. Why don't you at least back it up, and drive it around the neighborhood? Or, at the very least, did you try to put it in drive while parked and see if she is ready to go?

yeah, we lost that thread when the website got revamped, which sucked. Not sure really at this point. I believe there is a similar thread on nasioc, as well as on the Aussie legacy site here. But again, feel free to ask questions here or create a separate thread.

If you still have the OEM axles (green cups), just put new boots and fresh grease on them. Avoid replacing them with aftermarket axles. They are mostly junk, except if you do get axles from Raxles. But $$$. The emergency brake might just need some simple adjustments. The FSM shows how to do it. Pretty quick and easy I think.

Yep. You can track so much stuff with this. If you know what to watch out for, this can save you some real headaches and possibly a new engine. This thing has helped me avoid many potential issues. Get it like NOW! I'll help you if you have questions. Btw, it can also check your CEL codes and reset the ECU too.

Good job man. So, once you have the app running, I would check the following: 1. your learned fuel trims. You can view them when you 'pull' an 'LV'. It looks like this: Note the row 'Learn %' with four values. The first one refers to the amount of fuel corrections the ECU learned to apply at idle. The second one is at very light throttle, 3rd one is medium throttle. 4th one is when you start to push it. So, obviously if the car has just been idling since the last ECU reset, the first value will be the only one populated. The rest will show zero. You want all values to be within +/-5%. If you have very large negative values, that could be an indication you have a boost leak (post IC) or a poor ground at the MAF wiring harness. If you have very large positive values, then you may suffer from vacuum leaks. All this assumes good o2 and MAF sensors. 2. check the 'VVT L' and VVT R' angle values. Usually, they remain zero at idle. When you begin to push the car, both angles should be non zero and in sync. If one of them is quite off from the other, then that is an indication that one of your OCVs is not working right. Either it is slightly stuck, or poor oil flow to it. 3. Misfire per cylinder. That is self explanatory. A count of 1 or 2 at random is OK. Pay attention to what they show at idle too. 4. FKC/FLKC: that's related to knock. If these parameters remain zero, then the ECU is not detecting knock. If it detects knock, it will then pull a certain amount of timing (unit in degrees). If it keeps hearing knock at a certain rpm/load, it will 'learn' to remove timing in these conditions until it no longer hears knock. The LV I mentioned earlier shows you a summary of where the ECU has pulled timing. 5. actual boost and boost target. Your ECU has a boost target table and it will try to reach these values when you drive the car. It is nice to keep an eye on it and compare it to actual boost. I think that's enough for now.

congrats! Get the BtSsm app now. Install it and begin checking all the parameters.

Never thought of using some kind of spring to get the blanket in place. Mine came with some wire. What a pain it is to install and remove. Next time, I'll replace it with a spring.

You could also just buy a turbo blanket.

You're alive huh. 30k? That's it? How many years since the rebuild? Almost 50k for me since May 2020.

I forgot you had a Tactrix cable. Then to me, it'd be a no-brainer: buy the app (pretty cheap for what you get) and get it set up. I'll post a screenshot of what I keep an eye on.

You're going all out on your car!

I run the BtSsm app at all times on both of my cars. It's the best in my opinion, although with two limitations: you cannot flash your ECU on the go, and it is an Android app only. App was designed by a forum member btw.

Also, where did you get that 'shade thing' for the navigation screen?