xt2005bonbon

Actually I just learned about it this morning . I used some 'sil-glyde' brake grease. So I am guessing it should be good. I think it also does not help that we do some light offroad which involves stream crossing, mud playing and stuff..

Was chasing an annoying rattling sound, which I believe triggered the knock sensor at times. Turned out to be due to a seized lower brake caliper pin (the one with the rubber sleeve). This was on the passenger side. I noticed the rattling was going away each time I braked. To confirm, I used a rubber mallet and hit the PS tire at 12 oclock. Sure enough, the brake caliper was rattling. Removed the seized pin, regreased everything. No more rattling (for now). Will probably regrease the remaining brake caliper pins on the car. Note: apparently, the purpose of the rubber sleeve on the lower pin is anti-rattling.. Problem is they swell over time if using wrong grease I guess, or if water gets in there.

So, problem fixed now? Car runs?

I installed a post face lift JDM front end on my 05 OBXT and kept my USDM hood. Fit was just fine.

I am pretty sure the legacyoddsnends site is owned by the forum member from Hawaii.

I still have BtSsm running fine on my N7 since 2016-2017 . Timur ROM as well. I'll post a couple of screenshots soon.

Very nice! Great job.

oh automatic.. I keep thinking everyone drives sticks At least, you'll know in the back of your head that your starter may act up one day.

EDM BL/BP just have better everything , except the engine (no 2.5 turbo option IIRC).

Technically, mileage does not really correlate with starter brushes wear. It'd be more related to the number of times you start the car. But it is almost impossible to figure that out throughout the life of the car. In my case, I fixed that problem on the 06 and literally a month or two later, the 05 did the same thing!

Same for me. It happened out of nowhere. Went to the store to run some errands. Came out, no start nothing! Did the normal troubleshooting like you and could not figure out what was wrong. Had to push start the car to get home. Did more troubleshooting at home thinking it was relays, bla bla bla... It was none of these. Now, you still have to confirm that is the case for you, but I think that would be it if you know the battery is good, terminal connections are good, relays are good.

Good job on being persistent. It will pay off. The vendor is a great guy.

My bet is worn out starter brushes. This happened to both of my cars. You could try hitting the back of the starter with a long socket extension or something. It may help. In any case, it is a cheap fix if that is your problem. You do not need to replace the whole starter. $$$.

I am also getting some weird turbo noise at full boost only (19-20 psi) withe vf52. Almost sounds like tire screeching. Been doing that for a long time. Weird.

What are you using? I have cracks and damages on some of my seats. I may try products from furnitureclinic.com to fix them.

Yeah, it is a custom VF52 JMP, but is at least 4 years old. Not sure if he upgraded his design since.

I have a spare VF40 in good working condition. Might consider sending it to him..

I did not see that pic. Your wagons all good. Man, I want these rims on my 06. How is the 18g turbo lag? Does it annoy you compared to a VF40? My 06 has a standard VF40 and 05 has a JMP VF52. The former responds so quickly, but sure, the VF52 produces more torque once it kicks in. I just wish it would respond as quickly as the VF40...

lol. Yesterday, I saw on Reddit a guy posting a picture of his dash mileage: 430000 miles!!! Toyota Rav4 XSE. Guess the year: 2020!

Yeah that's the correct way to connect that kit. So yeah, sounds like you may have had air trapped in the system. You should be good now. Regarding the AC, I have to check but I thought the fans would kick in regardless of coolant temp if the AC was on.

I also have the cylinder 4 mod. I don't think this should cause problem regarding overheating. I did forget that you are bypassing the heater core. I am not sure how this would affect overall cooling performance. And I don't think you should worry about your timing belt. If you know your timing belt guides are spaced correctly, as per the FSM, then you should be fine. That part is important. Ask me how I know (previous owner put them too close to the belt. Slowly messed the belt up and jumped a few teeth later on ).

re coolant temp I am idling right now with an intake temp of 150F. My coolant temp is 190F. AC on.

The LV screenshot was not there when I checked your post. Now it is. Well, your learned values are pegged to 15%. B is not, most likely because you have not spent much time in that specific range of rpm/engine load. You may still have a vacuum leak somewhere. did you try this simple test described in the first post of this thread? Regarding your coolant temp, were both fans spinning when you took that LV? At idle, the coolant temp should not climb that high. Although I can see that your intake temp was quite high (143F). Should be around 203-208 I would say. Fans should have been spinning quite fast at the time. Also, I do reach 217F when I push the car on a long uphill grade, going like 60-80 mph with intake temp above 95F. I have even reached 230F! Again, that's driving on long steep grade, 5 people in the car, intake temp of 105-115F, 3000F+ altitude, 200 lbs tongue weight, rooftop box, and lots of crap in the trunk, trying to maintain 80 mph..

where's the LV

What are your long term fuel trims?