xt2005bonbon

I was able to find some front hub bearing assembly a while back with the NTN stamp on them. They've been on the car for about 40K I believe. Still good. Just changed the rear. I think I put some Moog on them that lasted 100k! I replaced one of them with a Timken and the other one with an SKF... Lots of brands on my car, so I can confuse you more... IMO, if I see 'NTN' on a bearing, I believe it is high quality. If I can't find that, then I would go SKF. After that, not sure anymore. Got my rear SKF one from Napa. Everything else from..... ebay

Off topic, but WRX USA, did you just get a Rivian truck? Is that what 'R1S' stands for? If yes, did you do a drag race against your Plaid?

Just went through swapping yet another cv boot last week (passenger side) and changed rear wheel bearing too. Fun stuff! Thankfully, these jobs are fairly quick.

How do the fuel trims look like now? Since you are staying out of boost, you are probably only populating the first two, maybe three long term fuel trims.

How many miles now?

I understand man. I understand. I don't mind when people speak their mind.

My plates are actually fine. I guess I am lucky to live in a place where stuff does not really rust.

I need to correct my above statement. After closer inspection, the passenger side CV boot was actually torn. It was not loose. I just replaced the boot with a genuine Subaru one, which will fail in about a year or two I guess . I do have a heat shield between it and the DP. I guess it is not enough.. ^ I need to check their warranty policy. I put these in March 2022 IIRC. The driver side began leaking a few months later. I was lazy and did not bother emailing them about it. I just removed their clamp and install another one (while adding some fresh grease with a syringe). I did take a few pics though. But I am surprised the passenger side already failed, given I have a heat shield too. But to be fair, it is hot where I live and the car is being pushed quite a lot on long road trips. And we do a lot of these. Never heard of this brand. Will check it out. Although, I just went to Napa yesterday to get an SKF wheel bearing. Will install it tonight. I hope this one will last. More road trips coming up. Sick of the humming already

About 1 to 1.5 hrs job: -rear car on jack stand -remove wheel -loosen 32mm axle nut -remove abs sensor (10mm bolt) -disengage parking brake -remove brake caliper (2x14 mm bolts) -remove rotor -remove wheel bearing (4x14 mm bolts). You will probably have to use a hammer and hit it pretty good to separate it from the knuckle. It is pretty easy really, provided your bolts are not seized. I use antiseize everywhere. So, all my bolts are in good shape. I think this will be my third set of rear wheel bearings. For me, rears are lasting longer than the front.

Need to buy yet another rear wheel bearing. Left rear side is screaming! This time, I'll check what Napa has available instead of buying online. And passenger side CV boot is leaking . Made a mess as usual. This time, boot was not split. Rather clamp became ever so slightly loose enough to make a mess. Kinna disappointed as it is a Raxle ($$$). Driver side did the same thing 6 months ago.

How old is your PCV valve? You still run it?

I think you should at least go 4 gauge. 8 gauge is a little small.

How big is your amp?

Dude, she looks real good man.

3k is still too high for me . I don't like waiting lol.

I have a vf52 jmp on the 05 and a stock vf40 on the 06. The 06 is more fun to drive around in my opinion. It's just more responsive. The VF52 is definitely a little laggier but then when it kicks in, it does pull stronger for longer. But I admit I have more fun with the vf40 around town. Both cars have stock headers, catless uppipes, same invidia hiflow catted downpipe. 06 does have stromung 3inch catback (no resonator). 05 has stock midpipe and avo cans. Other diff are 05 has GS intercooler, K&N panel filter, while 06 has AVO top mount and Cobb CAI.

Not much really: fuel correction and learned fuel trim, AFR, misfires, and timing. I do like to keep an eye on intake air temps too to remind not to push the car hard after a long idle in case the IAT is way high (e.g. 150F).

It's fine to be new at this stuff. And I do not profess to know everything, on the contrary.. You have a CAI which is less restrictive than the stock air filter. As a result, more air can be sucked in than before, given the same rpm. The ECU always tries to achieve a target air fuel ratio (AFR). At idle, it should be around 14.7. Well, since more air is now being sucked in (due to CAI), the ECU will then add some fuel to compensate so as to achieve an AFR of 14.7. In your case, again assuming there are no vacuum leaks AND the tune was not fully set up for this CAI, the ECU is adding 10% of fuel so as to achieve a 14.7 AFR. The tune could then be adjusted so the fuel trim would then report close to 0%. FYI, our ECU can do fuel corrections up to +/-15%. Have you been driving the car around?

Just curious, why aren't you driving an AWD car in that game? And why not a Subie?

Yeah, I was referring to 'Intake VVT Advance Angle Left/Right. And for misfires, it is these: BtSsm can monitor all of these stuff too, but from a phone or tablet :). And that is interesting that the driver side fender is quite hotter than passenger side. I don't recall someone ever checking these temperatures before. I would have thought it'd be the opposite since the turbo is on the pass. side.

VVT could be called OCV or something on romraider. Can you provide the full list of parameters you are able to view on romraider? So you do have a CAI. I forgot about that. So yeah you do need to be tuned for it. The MAF sensor is very sensitive to changes applied to air filters. So, now we are not sure whether you were properly tuned for it AND you did modify the CAI. So assuming you no longer have a vacuum leak, and the MAF sensor is working right (which I think it is), the tune needs to be fixed (e.g. adjust MAF scaling curve). Another question: are you running the injectors that came with the jdm engine, or the ones you had before?

How long have you been monitoring the idle after fixing your vacuum leak? Actually, remind us also what intake you have and what kind of tune you have uploaded. Is it an OTS Cobb tune or stock?

Waiting to hear from heiche ;), but my gut feeling is that because it is a paid app, there must be some kind of 'token' or license check upon app startup, to make sure the app is in fact attached to some account who legitimately paid for it. That's my guess anyway. I have the app running on my good old Nexus 7 which is rarely online. BUT, it is associated to my google account. So maybe that's why I never ran into any issue like you.

I am not sure. I need to test this out. Any update on your end PlainOM?

I actually don't know/can't remember if BtSsm can communicate with an ECU that is 'married' to a Cobb tune.