xt2005bonbon

This might work, but temporarily. I recall a thread where people complained about this problem with this combination of pads and rotors. I think Msprank said that the problem will eventually come back again. Sucks man.

I did install the Mr gasket 738G 1500 miles ago. The area is now nice and free oil residue. But I still get the whistling turbo noise when I go to 18+ psi. I need to record the sound. Still can't exactly figure out where it is coming from. My fuel trims are spot on. Then again, when this happens, it is in open loop with trim D set to 0... It's a long shot, but would the infamous wastegate crack do this?? I don't know how it would. But I know my turbo has such a hairline crack.

I said 'stoptech rotors' but I think they were labeled as Centric rotors. In any case, they all look fine, pads look fine. It just pulsates when you begin to really brake. My 06 has the same pads but I got the stoptech slotted rotors. This one has not pulsated so far.

Good candidate for this thread. -->

That is the very reason why I'm keeping my Subarus: they don't offer stick shifts with turbo anymore .

Was the outside of the bad coil bulged? How could you tell it was bad?

maybe that's what I'll do next.

All I know is I am NOT raving about my stoptech pads with stoptech rotors. Lots of pulsation problems during hard braking. I hate it. Apparently, there's no fix . I know my caliper pistons and sliding pins are all fine. Pads are evenly worn too.

Nice choice of color.

After a few Google searches, the vibration I experience at low speed and under load is apparently common when you lift a Subie. I basically have to live with it .

Interesting. That's quite disappointing especially for the price these cost. I also have axles from Raxles. The minor but annoying issues I've had is the driver inner boot clamp becoming loose and spreading grease everywhere. I had to add grease and reclamp it. Then a couple of months later, the passenger inner boot failed. I do drive a lot, and it is hot where I leave. BUT, I installed a heatshield between the boot and the cat. I guess, it's still not enough... So, I replaced the boot myself. I should have probably asked them to fix that since they have some kind of warranty on them. Now, the other problem that frustrates me is vibration under high load at fairly low speed. I have a VF52 JMP and sometime push it quite hard when I launch the car. I can tell the drivetrain vibrates between 25-30 mph and then goes away. I suffered that problem with every axles I've had the past couple of years. Each time, I put a new set of axles, the vibration went away, but then comes back a few thousand miles later. I was disappointed when it showed up with these ones as well. Note, that it is an OBXT, not an LGT. My car has a 1 inch lift or so compared to stock I think. That may be what is causing the issue. My other OBXT is lowered with pink springs. No vibration like that.

Can you elaborate when you say the first ones were no good? And what exactly went wrong with the driver side one from your second set?

Congratulations! Can't see pics though

You could always change the rev limit to 7k. My tuner did that. Although I almost never go there since it doesn't pull that much up there, at least in my case.

Code, stock block?

That looks great! I wish these were light like the bbs are.

Can you post a pic of it?

Yes. Positive trims means that the ECU is adding fuel in these particular trims. In his case, my guess is the use of the aftermarket (and subsequently modified) cold air intake. The MAF needs to be rescaled for it, again assuming everything else is fine (MAF, O2 sensors, and no vacuum leaks).

Yeah, so again, assuming o2 and MAF sensors are good, and no vacuum leak, I would do the following: -rescale the MAF table so as to bring back the long term fuel trims close to 0%. -you could remove like 6 degrees of timing throughout the whole base timing table -you could also zero out the wastegate duty cycle tables so that it would just run 'spring pressure' (~5-6 psi I think). IOW, 'safe' boost levels while you address the timing and the fueling. I would go from there. Again, that's what I would do. But I am not a professional tuner.

Good on you for checking for vacuum leaks again. Might want to try what subisubisu is suggesting. And post an LV when you can .

Pull another LV and post. Wondering if your long term fuel trims are still off.

AFR is 18 at idle? Mine is at 14.7 (when warmed up). The tick is quite loud. Does it go away at different rpm or is it always there regardless of rpm?

So, what is the latest update regarding tuning?

What did you replace these with? free bump.

How many miles on the plugs? I should probably change mine. 3 years and 55K already.