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xt2005bonbon

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Everything posted by xt2005bonbon

  1. Is she running rough at idle only, or in any driving conditions? Can't remember the details on your car.. But are the 'basics' checking fine? For instance, -correct timing belt teeth count between pulleys as per FSM -white coil packs plugs in the front of the engine (cyl 1 and 2) and black in the back -free of vacuum leaks. Although I'd think you'd need a really massive vacuum leak to begin having misfires. It happened to me a looong time ago when the hoses attached to the blue T under the intercooler popped off. If I read your screenshots right, you have some negative learned fuel corrections which would indicate the opposite (boost leak).
  2. In your case, it does not look like the zip tie was the problem though. These red wires don't look stock.. I don't recall mine being red.
  3. I can't remember... Did you take a pick inside the rubber boots to see if one or more wires are damaged?
  4. I've been using zip ties for a long time on these .
  5. I have changed that part before. It was a long time ago. Not sure if that part is the same between 5MT and 6MT though.
  6. I installed a new EJ257 (type RA) SB in 2020, and yeah I did install ARP head studs. It mostly sees a peak of 17 ish psi but may get up to 19-21 psi depending on how I drive and ambient temps.
  7. I am currently using a GS unit, which came with its own oring/gasket. I did recall hearing that sound prior to using the GS unit. So I thought that would have ruled out a leak. But I did notice some slight oil residue between the IC and turbo.. I only hear it if I get past 19 psi or so (>~3.0 g/rev load). Would this Mr gasket 738G help and be compatible with a GS unit? I guess I should try it..
  8. Well, we go do some light offroading quite often and I have not had mine fail like that. At the same time, mine can't close properly. So I never open it :(.
  9. I actually did replace the front and rear driveshaft ujoints with some Duralast ujoints in 2019. It's now been 60K. Has not exploded on me yet . Just checked my logs: part number was duralast 2-0430dl. 5 spd though. Not 6.
  10. I've been going to Cali a few times this year for a couple of surf sessions, and yeah, I've seen some sketch cars for sure! I was surprised, but now I understand I guess.. Lots of fast cars and and lot more Teslas over there though (LA area).
  11. Before removing the tire, take a rubber mallet and hit the tire multiple times pretty hard around 12oclock, and listen for rattling. Have a helper if possible. The rattling stopped when I began holding the brake hose end (closer to the caliper).
  12. I am going to inspect the other pins this week. I know I re-greased them and changed a couple a few years back (~60K ago). Will be curious to see what I find...
  13. Actually I just learned about it this morning . I used some 'sil-glyde' brake grease. So I am guessing it should be good. I think it also does not help that we do some light offroad which involves stream crossing, mud playing and stuff..
  14. Was chasing an annoying rattling sound, which I believe triggered the knock sensor at times. Turned out to be due to a seized lower brake caliper pin (the one with the rubber sleeve). This was on the passenger side. I noticed the rattling was going away each time I braked. To confirm, I used a rubber mallet and hit the PS tire at 12 oclock. Sure enough, the brake caliper was rattling. Removed the seized pin, regreased everything. No more rattling (for now). Will probably regrease the remaining brake caliper pins on the car. Note: apparently, the purpose of the rubber sleeve on the lower pin is anti-rattling.. Problem is they swell over time if using wrong grease I guess, or if water gets in there.
  15. I installed a post face lift JDM front end on my 05 OBXT and kept my USDM hood. Fit was just fine.
  16. I am pretty sure the legacyoddsnends site is owned by the forum member from Hawaii.
  17. I still have BtSsm running fine on my N7 since 2016-2017 . Timur ROM as well. I'll post a couple of screenshots soon.
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