f1anatic

Jazzy, what are the chances of me purchasing one of your kits for a 2005 Legacy (non-turbo) and getting it in Chicago overnight ?

I tell you what...I wouldn't wanna be cruising around with an Airbag Warning Light. The entire design group from Fuji Heavy Industries may wanna try and convince me otherwise...I am still gonna plug the ORIGINAL piece in...somewhere, somehow.

I made my own clock relocation kit. Pictures at the begining of the thread. Plan for the Ground Loop Isolator to be added easily at a later time if or when the sound quality will no longer correspond - in such fashion that you would not have to remove carpet, door trim, rear seats again.

Fun with Centrafuse That one shows PARTIAL delete because I yanked the flash drive out of the USB hub. The computer I s'pose is doing its job to be safe from Crabs, Chlamydia, Syphilis and other venereal diseases. But wtf mates...that looks like a pre-packaged threat.

Actually I have the GLI from Jazzy and there is a noticeable drop in volume compared to CD

The problem is not the IG3 but rather the BU-353 GPS. I came across it on mp3car .com and they just offered 2 solutions....one is some software called "hybernate" (spelling) and the other is switching to a serial connector GPS. It seems it is a problem with most GPS units but ours is notorious. We could try upgrading the drivers - i am still using the one that shipped with the box. If you find newer drivers, do you mind sharing ?

I bought Centrafuse over the week-end but I have not been able to register for that machine since their stupid server didn't work. I e-mailed tech support. Sebbery, your skin looks awesome...I just wished it had red rather than blue...to match the rest of teh dashboard. And besides, your OBK is red.

Meaning...Windows Automotive 5.0 http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/info.aspx?na=47&p=1&SrcDisplayLang=en&SrcCategoryId=&SrcFamilyId=5d3839cf-2205-41c2-859e-f25b80daaf4e&u=details.aspx%3ffamilyid%3dFBA4E943-9B9F-48C8-8195-1000D3398F3F%26displaylang%3den http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=5D3839CF-2205-41C2-859E-F25B80DAAF4E&displaylang=en

The Empire Strikes Back http://www.microsoft.com/windowsautomotive/wa5/default.mspx

35 watts ? Kray Zee ! Mine draws about 70 and my psu is rated 150. Including the 2 usb hubs though.

Holy Impressive. I wish I had that custom harness myself. Dealing with multiple wires is teh majorest bitch.

@ NSFW I chose to keep the original frame (albeit chopped the sides) of the Xenarc monitor because it provides protection and housing to the LCD internals. There is more to it than a mere glass. The circuit boards attach to one another and to the frame. I am not sure precisely what you mean...but I am absolutely certain that there is a lot more work involved going your route. If you go back to the beginning of this thread you will see some pictures of how each one of us did his Car PC.

I ran 2 x 10 gauge wires from the battery to the back of the car where the power source is. Actually it was a wire that I scavenged off a vacuum cleaner - so pretty sturdy and thick one may say. I bought the automotive fuse holder from Pep Boys (the one that takes the larger fuses). One of the wires is (+) and carries the fuse, about 20 cm from the battery and the other (-) duh. However I "grounded" mine at the battery. I felt the more I avoid the chassis, the better it will be. It is rather difficult to take pictures of the area where the wires pass thru the firewall. I had a local member do it. Funky Weasel is much better at explaining since he did it for me. He ran them thru the doorstep on the left side of the car to the rear - my power source is in the trunk. The battery connectors : I had a thick copper metal sheet from which I cut 2 pieces, drilled holes thru it and soldered the wires onto. Then attached them to screws of those clamps that get hooked to the battery terminals (English pawns me here but you know what I mean). I am sure you could purchase something less ghetto in the store.

I subscribe: there is no GT kit for Car PC. False advertisement.

then your problem is the hack job VGA connector

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT: DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L) DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ) DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ) DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTH. SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ) DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ) DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ) ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT: DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

I have to say I was getting a lot of interference at some point early on...and then I proceeded more scientifically: I saw whatever resolution the monitor was working on (actually 1024 x 878 ?) had a different refresh rate than the Windows output. So I went into the display settings and matched the frequency to that of the monitor. In my case I was getting some fine horizontal lines. Nowadays, the monitor will just refresh itself every now and then ...and lose the illumination settings (like brightness)...It is not something done on a regular basis...and so far I put up with it.

Seb...maybe you're running the wires next to something which produces strong EMF interference. I do not know...but obviously it seems like a solitary case. Reroute rather than wrap. And change the damn wire altogether - unless you have it under the carpet thus making diagnostics a priority over replacement.

I s'pose I never showed you my enclosure...did I ?

So BMAC what is your boot time? I have been editing services and GUI for ever and I am at 1m30s boot time; going thru the Desktop and then automatically loading Centrafuse (created a shortcut in the Startup foldeR). BUT this is wa too long and it got so long after I installed the wireless adapter. Which I do not want to take out nor disable. So I am stuck with a long boot time. I would hope to take it under 1 min but I do not know how. The PC at home boots in like 24 seconds (2200 GHz AMD Athlon 64; 1500 mb Ram; SATA 10,000 rpm C drive and loading shit like firewall, anti virus, calendar etc) but this one in the car running nothing is a "killuh" ! (1.1 Ghz Intel P3, 512 mb ram). I know it is old...but come on...! I am not sure what fake gimmick the Centrafuse system shell is...but it did shit for me. Boot time seemed even slower but when using a stop watch it was virtually identical (an improvement of 2 seconds).

Silver GT with Iowa Plates and D (Deutschland) sticker on rear glass parked in Boys' Town (Halsted/Clark/Diversey)

BMAC I got a question for you. If you run Centrafuse as a system shell; and then you want to exit to the desktop and use Windows as a regular PC (say you add more songs) how do you do it ? Simply exiting Centrafuse will make Explorer load up ? OR do you need a keyboard and need to hit the Windows Button, hit RUN, type Explorer.exe and wait for it to load ?

Looks great. I would have asked you to give me your skin...However I built my system around Centrafuse. May not have been the smartest choice. what's the use for the CPU and RAM info ?

there's no navi bezel on the 2005. If you mean 2006...look around...it is the same as 07...08...

Let's talk about boosting the GPS signal. My GPS is mounted (in a sedan) on top of the middle child seat latch (between the middle headrest and the 3rd brake light). I am using the BU-353 and I often find it loses signal. True that - in downtown's urban canyon which doesn't but sometimes it may happen even on city streets. I want to improve; boost the signal. One way is to mount it elsewhere inside the car ? But where ? The other is to mount it outside but...where except the roof ? And the USB cable is THICK (and short) ! I could have tried the trunk...but it is aluminium... While looking to speed up XP's boot I cam up with this http://www.neowin.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=235571 I must say I have downloaded Tune_XP_1.5 and it reduced my boot time in half. However it is still in the 35 second range. I wish I could run Centrafuse as a system shell...but I am afraid to mess up something. Is there a way to make explorer NOT start at the startup without adversely affecting the PC ? (well I know where to go make it an automatic, manual or disabled process. But I have never done it and I am very afraid). Last but not least...I have trouble with my wireless card. Every time I pop it in...it makes the boot time...LOOOOOONG !