f1anatic

My greatest piece of advice is do this in front of the PC. I asked Jazzy to send me a set of high resolution pictures and I believe they are in this thread. I would check the posts in this thread around Christmas and look for his name and 3 files attached. Those high resolution pictures are excellent. You just follow what is on the screen. Hold that sucker like you see it on the screen and so on. Put a permanent marker to good use. Have one of those trays for ice cubes ready, mark next to each set of screws a number and write into the icecube tray the same number. Deposit the screw in there. The way I attached the wire inside, along the edge of the frame is - crap I cannot find the picture right now - so I have to describe it... Basically I took a black zip tie - cut its ends and put it on the circuit board side of the faceplate. Then using tiny zip-ties, i ran them around this ziptie, in thru a hole and looped around the audio cable and tightened. The "knot" is on the inside and there will be just two "knots" firmly keeping the aux audio wire in place. i re-routed it along the wall, attaching it in similar fashion (with tiny zip ties) to one of the exhaust holes...and out thru some removable plastic tab which you can break off.

The hardest thing is removing the faceplate of the radio. Otherwise, just get someone to help you with holding the unit...and remember an extra screw or a screw missing is a bad sign.

I know a thing or two about Ford Taurus radios... I am also "shaving" off 1mm of the 2.5-3mm off those little "ears". The way you pull it out in the OEM form assumes you can stick your hand inside the cubby and flex the bezel around a little. Now...it is both stiff and have no way of grabbing it - hence I had to find a solution to a certain future problem.

At home I am bringing video signal to my PC via a CAT-5 network cable. Soldering the RCA (white, red, yellow) to the CAT-5 tiny wires is challenging to say the least...but once I did it, it was easy to just extend it using a network cable connector. But the VGA cable has so many pins...I am not sure... I do not mind sharing my Subaru logs - they are not mine - but I painfully collected them thruout the years - and some of them can be used in Centrafuse as well. Just let me know if you want them - PM me your e-mail address in that case. One the issue of attachment of the monitor inside the bezel and subsequently removing the bezel if say a cable is loose ? I engineered some little metal bracket which I can grab onto with a stiff metal wire and pull towards me. I would insert the wire thru the holes in the vents - perhaps a picture will explain it better. Also notice the extra cooling vents. Obviously I am a little slow since I am spending so much time with the fabrication - but I am trying to make a complete job; making life easier for later.

+ 3. Thank you Sir. Certainly you are quite right with regards to the first 2 counts.

Fabulous work bmc I got a little more work left to do since I figured the way I attached the monitor to the bezel made the antire assembly WAY TOO RIGID and if I ever need to work there again; I will have a world of trouble. I am surprised none of you gave it any thought - how easy will it be to extract the entire assembly once you have it in place ? It is not easy to remove the OEM one to start with; now with less flexing - I bet it will be a struggle. Otherwise - fab work. Groovy results BUT something about that Red Road Runner skin is wrong. Maybe your car is red but to me it looks wrong. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder so do not worry about my last statement. Sebb - not that much space. Apparently Weasel fit a box under that seat but I know my laptop will not fit. Anyone found any skinny VGA cables somewhere ? I ordered one on Newegg and I got one back that I could easily pull a car out of a ditch with it: thick like my finger. I am at my wiring stage and I am pretty concerned with how I am going to hide everything arfound the car. Any advice ? I am so not pulling out the carpetting to hide underneath.

For those of us using Centrafuse front end software: LINK So I believe that Accessport cable may NOT be used as an OBD-2 reader device for a Car PC, probably irrespective of the front end.

Wow the thread is picking up pace. I will make a call again for all of you that have made OBD-2 work with a CarPC to share their knowledge. (Thank you Legacy05GT; let me know how it goes as that is the ONLY thing I still have issues with) With regards to the paint, as of yet I am undecided if I want to paint just the inside of the bezel flat black or try to match the color. Otherwise, I have since added Bondo in a a few key places and have drilled a few more holes in the back of the Xenarc housing (for cooling purposes). I wanted to put a mini-fan there but it is probably overkill. I probably increased the open/cooling surface area by 300% at least - should be enough.

Lol I was about to ask: what paint to use ? I think FWEASEL once mentioned in qa thread about some graphite something color.

Seberry...how are you gonna cope with the heat ? Are you going to put a fan somewhere ?

I have some trouble getting the OBD-2 feature to work with Centrafuse. I use the Cobb AP with a serial-to-usb converter. The solution is good enough for TARI DataLogger (it works). Nighthawk and I tried for 1 hour to make it work tonight and to no avail. Display Name - OBDII COM PORT - COM4 (for me, the same port used by the Tari Racing Software) BAUD RATE - 9600 (we tried the lowest, the highest - did not work) OBDII DEVICE - ELM 320,322,323 or ELM 327 (which one; tried both did not work). In the end, all it did say was connecting. But it was saying that for far too long, with engine running...so I know it did not work. Advice needed. Thanks.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowImage.asp?Image=26%2D152%2D010%2D02%2Ejpg%2C26%2D152%2D010%2D03%2Ejpg%2C26%2D152%2D010%2D04%2Ejpg%2C26%2D152%2D010%2D05%2Ejpg%2C26%2D152%2D010%2D06%2Ejpg&CurImage=26%2D152%2D010%2D02%2Ejpg&Description=ADESSO+GP%2D415U+Black+4+button+%2B+4+programmable+hotlinks+Buttons+USB+Wired+Glidepoint+Touchpad+%2D+Retail this is what I have right now http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/26-152-010-02.JPG

I was looking at replacement controllers http://www.logitech.com/lang/images/0/13815.jpg http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/products/details/US/EN,CRID=2769,CONTENTID=12771 but 1 lb ? No way !

With regards to the clock relocation kit. There is NO need to splice the wires. I found out that if you just "delete" the plastic push-pin bracket that currently holds the clock/trip meter assembly attached to one of the walls under the dash, you are able to extend it enough downwards to make it reach the new location. I am not sure now if you are able to make it work with the AVO relocation kit since I mounted mine at a different angle. I believe either way you will have to cut thru a certain plastic tab to accomodate the harness. I have a few pictures but they are at home. Will attach it later to this thread. Bottom line, I was able to do move the clock/info meter http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=935062&postcount=1 without cutting ANY wires; using the original harness. I did cut thru the aforementioned plastic bracket though - which seems less detrimental than say cutting the dashboard support pillars as in the case of the AVO single DIN. To be more precise: I carved a portion of it - the bracket is still there and I did not affect the structural rigidity of that "assembly" - I just took away a portion of it to practice this passage for the harness. It will be more clear when I post the pictures. With regards to the mounting of the PC and the power source: I wholeheartedly concur with Darkfox1. I chose teh Carnetix DC-DC smart controller with similar features as the M1/M2-ATX unit that he described. I am a firm believer in as many safety nets as possible. I would NOT recmmend wiring your computer or monitor directly to the battery ... and not even the cigarette lighter - even if that is fused at the car and fused at the cig lighter itself. This being said, my power source is "fused", connecting to the cig lighter (the dashboard one) with another fused thingie...and the cig lighter source itself is fused in the main fuse panel. I hope I would rather burn a few fuses than a 400 dollar touchscreen. I will attach my power source unit in the trunk, hanging from one of the screws under the 3rd brake light. The source itself http://store.mp3car.com/photos/PWR-010-2T.jpg is ventilated by a fan and will have the entire trunk space around it filled with air, to ensure adequate cooling. And the more powerful (more wattage) it has: the cooler it will work. I will mount the laptop in a little custom plastic box: will attach a 12v fan to complement its existing cooling capacity and dampen vibrations with some foam. I will attach to the back wall of the trunk with velcro (at least this is the current thought). Obviously a built in pC is better but the laptop was available to me free: it is a pre-assembled package and I find having a battery an advantage since I can be sure the computer will shut down nicely even if I just yank the key out of the ignition. Sure the battery will only hold charge for like 15 min but that is plenty of time for the software to turn off the computer / or make it hibernate. With regards to the screen, obviously one of the reasons I chose to modify the original housing is to prevent excessive tap force being applied to the screen and burning the controller. As I said - and look to the pictures again - I just shaved the edges off the housing - the rest of the components will fit right in and the entire housing will be assembled back with the OEM screws. Takes some accurate measuring and a steady hand at using the Dremmel (do not try after a night of heavy partying) but nothing too dramatic that one cannot handle.

It will most likely NOT work. I doubt the kenwood is touchscreen enabled thru a USB cable (as my Xenarc). Keep reading as I will add to it. Since I use a laptop - I had to buy a 60Gb hardrive 2.5 inch format. But I believe if you build your own car computer you will need a different type of HD - still a 2.5 inch format. Look it up on the http://www.mp3.com website.

Here are my pictures but I will edit at a later time; to include Prelude's pictures - to make for a complete walk-thru. Mine just complement his. The full set of installation pictures by Prelude are available here: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT install - MP3Car.com Forums As you can see; I had to cut the edges off the housing of the monitor. I also had to cut the upper left/right hand corners; to be able to "lift" the monitor - and have access at the front panel buttons (these functions are also available thru the remote control) I have modest goals in mind. The picture showing the screen already installed in the car represents my targeted end-result: Prelude's install (although he has since revised it).

FABRICATION With regards to the fabrication of the clock relocation bracket for the 2005-2006 Legacy GT cars; I have discussed it here: My alternative to the $ 200 relocation kit: peer critique plz. - Subaru Legacy Forums Simply put it; I found the 200 dollar AVO bracket to be too expensive to be worth it. It depends from person to person but to me; my end result (UNPAINTED as of 15 Jan 2007) is acceptable. With regards to the screen, the cubby on our cars is 6.5 inches long and the space between the HVAC ducts is something like 7 inches. The Xenarc monitor is something like 7.3 inches long so I ended up cutting the monitor's edges and upper corners to make it fit. This is the solution adopted by Prelude (see the MP3car link) but Sebbery decided to mount just the screen and the circuit board - fabricating a new bezel by himself. This way one does not cut thru the housing of the monitor. Regardless; the warranty on my 400 dollar Xenarc touchscreen lasted about 4 hours. I must mention at this time that there are a number of other monitors such as Lilliput that are much cheaper but perhaps not as good as well as several in-dash monitors such as the Xenarc 700 IDT which is a mechanical flip-out screen - similar to most aftermarket navi screens. Unfortunately, the housing is about 8 inches long and there are plenty of hurdles in making that fit inside our dash. You may read at your leisure about it on the http://www.mp3car.com website. There are a few other in dash monitors available both 1 DIN and 2 DIN but for any in dash solution you will need the AVI 1 DIN/2DIN kit and will end up cutting in the dashboard. For some people it worked great using other "bulky" units (fweasel)...others like me were discouraged.

I am gonna try and make this the most authoritative Car PC thread on Legacy GT forums; linking to past attempts and other threads as well as offering advice on how to do one for yourself. Obviously don't expect my work to be on par with either West Coast Customs or Unique Autosport...Heck not even Car Boutique of Schaumburg, IL but it is reasonable to say I came across most hurdles and since I have done most work myself - I have gained some knowledge. What I have done is neither the best and I hope nor the worst job one could do and like most people, I worked on a budget. First - if you want in car navigation - the easiest and cheapest way is to get an aftermarket portable navigation: Garmin; Lowrance i-way; Tom-Tom - there's so many of them that you lose track of all those names. Some have big hard drives that allow you to store music, movies; they're portable and easily moved from car to car and certainly is theft-proof since they can be removed from sight whenever you park the car. Maps are easily uphgradeable...and I have not even scratched the surface for the list of advantages. Some disadvantages include usually listening to music/navigation thru an FM transmitter which is a pain in urban areas; small HD; small screen among others. But what if you are a music buff and have 10 gb of music ? Or perhaps you spend a lot of time in the car that you probably want more from your car - perhaps ability to play DVDs (DANGEROUS) to your kid while driving; watch TV or need a back-up camera ? Perhaps you want to monitor some car parameters? Or you simply hate cables and things hanging from the windshield (which is illegal anyways in some states) ? What then ? There are always a number of aftermarket manufacturers of extremely good navigation/car entertainment packages: Pioneer; Kenwood; Eclipse; Alpine and many of us have gone that route. They cost about 2000 dollars when done and certainly do the job better than anything else you will ever be able to squeeze in a car. The alternative to aftermarket navi solutions is building a Car PC which has several advantages: 1) highly customizable (choice software, hardware) 2) ever improvable 3) cheaper to build 4) bling factor ? Think that Windows XP logo in the middle of your dash I chose a Car PC because I wanted to try some unique features (navi, multimedia, TV, camera, OBD-2) that would have been pretty expensive to implement using the aftermarket infoteinment options available. There are a few websites as well as a few threads that one should become familiar with, before attempting such a project. TABLE OF CONTENTS _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ VENDORS www.mp3car.com The mothership: will have EVERYTHING from the knowledge database to the hardware and software to purchase. www.newegg.com For most computer cables, USB hubs, adaptors and everything else in between. www.xenarc.com Makers of the Xenarc Monitors www.mini-box.com Car PC Automotive Computing Solutions www.logicsupply.com Another great store for your micro computing needs (cases, drives). www.gnetcanada.com 7 inch motorized VGA in dash display www.globalsources.com In-dash Panasonic Car LCD Monitor www.autonode.com 7" 1-DIN In-Dash Motorized VGA LCD Monitor www.digitalww.com Yet another 7 inch in dash monitor www.usglobalsat.com USB GPS units www.tigerdirect.com USB touchpad controllers (also available from Newegg) www.3dconexion.com Neat Space Navigator controller (to replace the mouse/touchpad) for your Car PC - similar to the I-DRIVE (BMW) or MMI (AUDI) controllers www.ccstick.com Neat controller like AUDI's MMC or BMW's M-drive button for your Car PC www.rallitek.com JDM, AVO, Rallitek (call it what you want) Clock Relocation Kit for the 05-06 LGTs _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2005+ Subaru Legacy GT Car PC Projects Stage3Legacy's install - MP3Car.com Forums JiMb0's install - Subaru Legacy Forums foobark's install - Subaru Legacy Forums NSFW's install - Subaru Legacy Forums Seberry's install Bezel f1anatic's install This is my thread and I cry if I want to. My install spans quite a few posts. The full condensed story posted elsewhere on MP3CAR.com This is my alternative to the Rallitek/AVO clock relocation kit for the 2005-2006 Legacy GT My command center: touchpad, radar detector remote ctrl and start-up/shut-down My laptop hack - modding the OEM powerbutton Screen fabrication - intermediary steps Overcoming hurdles of screen removal once installed The screen mods - final pictures with everything assembled Generic Before Picture The source of inspiration BMac1203's install Bezel & Trunk Enclosure _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 3 Solutions for an AUX input for the 2005-2006 Subaru Legacy GT Buy a 2007+ unit. It will fit. It will play MP3s. It will have an AUX-IN mvigneau's Aux-In Solution for 05/06 (Soldering Req) - No Silent CD jazzymt's Plug 'n' Play Aux-In mod for 2005/06 radios - With Silent CD _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Budget: $,$$$ f1anatic's cost breakdown: $1,000 NSFW's cost breakdown $1,500 You need to budget about 1300 dollars. - Screen $400 - Computer $500 - Power Inverter $100 - GPS $100 - Software (front end & navigation - together or separately) $200 The prices are just to form an idea. At the time of print (29 December 2008) you can buy a BU-353 GPS from MP3CAR.com for $55 dollars. The screen that most of us have: Xenarc 700TSV is nowadays $365 and the Carnetix Power Inverter precisely $100. Most of us have an older laptop somewhere around or can get either a new one like this EEEPC can be had for as little as 220 dollars on Newegg but you surely can go overboard and spend a lot more. Navigation and front end software is another choice: there is the free Road Runner or the elegant, OEM-like Centrafuse which can be had from 125-250 dollars. As you can see there is a lot of room for savings or spending when building a CarPC. You can easily overspend but you can certainly do it for 600 dollars. Listed above is just the price of the parts - tools and or custom labor performed by others is a different matter. I wish you Great Success ! _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Miscellaneous Threads here on LGT forums Factory fit bolt in aftermarket screen, carputer, navi, video - Subaru Legacy Forums The I just want to see pix of installs thread... - Subaru Legacy Forums Dual HVAC, Double Din, XM, Back up Camera Finally Finished - Subaru Legacy Forums How to remove the factory radio - PDF ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ I will update this TOC as time allows. About my system Xenarc 700 TSV touchscreen monitor Toshiba Staellite 3005 (with bad monitor) 1 GHz, 512 Mb RAM; 60 Gb hard drive BU-353 GPS receiver Front end Software: Centrafuse build 4.5 © 2006 Navigation: iGuidance v.3 North America © 2006 plenty of USB cables Serial to USB adapter (for OBD-2) Hauppauge USB TV tuner Carnetix smart startup-shutdown controller Jazzy MT aux input to the OEM headunit Adesso USB touchpad with programmable buttons I would like to thank all my forerunners in this field for inspiration and advice: Sebbery; Prelude/Stage3legacy ; Darkforx1; my Father who has lent me his tools and often a helping hand; the helpful people at MP3car.com.

STFU and set up a meeting already

I got a stupid question: the Jazzy device came wrapped in some plastic. Do I take it off...or do I mount it as it is ? Is it heat resistant ? Burn proof ? - Thanks.

I love you Jazzy. I got it today ! (USPS delivered on Christmas :-) day). Merry Christmas again !

You are the mostest bestest ! Happy holidays !

Holy Pixels !!! Thank you !

Jazzy, do you have some nice big clear pictures somewhere ? In the installation manual (PDF) they are pretty small and I would much rather display them on my laptop when doing the work. I know you posted some pix from your firt installation of this board, 3 composite pictures of 6 individual shots but I am looking for bigger images still. Thank you.

I may be slow...but not retarded. Thank you "Jazzy". In your downloadable instructions, does it say how to pull the radio out ? Cause I haven't clicked that far since I figured I should not get too far ahead of myself. Now I realize I wanna take out the ashtray assembly and need some instructions.