Chocoholic005

Sounds like you've hit the valves with the pistons because your timing was off. Since you started the car before you tried to turn it over by hand, you've already done damage. You should always turn the car over by hand prior to starting after doing a timing belt; turning it over by hand usually won't be enough force to damage the valves/pistons, but the starter will definitely do major damage. You're looking at a rebuild.

Only the positive shift kit left.

MAPerformance has whiteline stuff on a 23% off sale today.

I got a set of 19MY green/yellow STI calipers, which as far as I can tell are identical to 08+ black calipers. These bolted right up to the LGT backing plate, but were far too narrow to use a STI rotor/190mm hat and the back spacing was all wrong. I think all you would need for this is a custom rotor with a 170mm hat and it would work.

This is why high end factory manifolds aren't a smooth surface. If you were to go in and "polish" the surface, you'd decrease flow. One of those typically misunderstood "modifications" people make. I had an engine airflow class in college; but i'm wholly useless when it comes to exterior flow characteristics. That being said, I might be able to pass some questions by the wind tunnel guys if we get that far.

bump.

All parts are brand new. Prices include USPS priority shipping to the US: Torque Solution Positive Shift Kit - TS-SU-PSK" - 1993-2007 Subaru Impreza - 2002-2007 WRX/STI *Works with 2005-2009 LGT if you grind down the bolt spacers. $27.00 Torque Solution Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing Support Bushings - TS-SU-DSB - Fits most Subaru models SOLD Torque Solution Shifter Pivot Bushings - TS-SU-703 - 6 Speed Only SOLD Torque Solution Solid Shifter Linkage U-Joint - TS-SU-474 - 06+ 6 Speed Only SOLD

Interested in the e-brake boot alone if someone wants the shifter boot.

Same; last package I had got stuck in my local distribution hub for 8 days before delivery. But I've had other packages show up with no delay at all.

Small updates for today; sold the original engine locally and cleared some space in the garage. This weekend I attacked some of my biggest gripes with the car as it sits; a sloppy shifter and a shudder/driveline clunk when starting in 1st gear. To address the sloppy shifter, I ordered some Torque Solutions goodies; a solid shift linkage u-joint and a set of pivot bushings. While installing these, I found the nut had backed off completely from the pivot bushing bolt and one side of the bushing had crumbled away to nothing from the vibration. Replacing this and the u-joint completely solved my issue and really improved shift feel while eliminating a nasty rattle in 4th gear. As for the shudder/driveline clunk, I installed a new Group-N trans mount as well as a positive shift kit and solid carrier bearing mounts from Torque Solutions. This, combined with clearancing a heat shield around the exhaust pretty much solved all my issues. The wagon is so much easier to drive as a result; all that slop combined with a brand new clutch was very temperamental from a launch. Other notable additions include a few extra pieces on the black interior conversion, including new floor mats, some new side sills and replacement interior clips. At the moment, I'm pretty happy with the way it drives and just want to trouble shoot/continue to break in the motor. Next, I'll focus on adding some additional interior sound deadening in effort to reduce interior exhaust noise without compromising the exterior sound. I'll continue to add black interior pieces as I come across them (thinking a seat retrofit next) and maybe some day get to the replacement doors sitting in my basement.

You're becoming quite the professional at lunching 5 speeds!

If you can get your hands on a pressure bleeder, like for bleeding brakes, you can connect that to the block where the oil pressure sensor threads in with a fitting from any local home improvement store. Pump it up to about 15 psi and slowly spin the block over by hand while putting a few quarts of oil through it. This should give you a good indication of if there are any leaks and it will pre-oil the system for a better first startup.

Smaller front bar or larger rear bar to combat understeer... but swaybars are only one of many ways to accomplish that goal.

If you put a bigger bar on the front end, you're gonna increase understeer and make the car push. You need to determine what the car needs relative to your driving style/preference, not just ask us what to throw on it. If you don't know how to do that, it's better you spend money on driving classes to learn than modify the car.

Solder and heat shrink is the best solution. Iwire offers replacement plugs w/ pigtails and butt connectors to make the job easy if you'd rather replace.

You can drive with it, but you'll probably have a massive exhaust leak. Best try to run a die down the stud or replace it entirely.

Correct. Different bolt depth; in theory you could make them work with a custom rotor. But it would be totally custom.

What's your budget for the longblock?

Motor Sold.

No metal on the dipstick means absolutely nothing. If your turbo did indeed go out and its not just some related failure that killed the boost/whistled, then you need to check the oil, filter and the pan for metal before you go doing these mods. You don't have any proof yet that the motor hasn't been damaged.

Sold some stuff update.

I'm pretty sure in the grand scheme of things, maintenance items count no matter what the interval; but anything to make you feel better

Bendpak or don't bother is what I always say... course i'm bias.

If the timing belt has never been changed, you should definitely get on that; however it won't cause the timing to be out of whack. What could be happening, is excessive valve lash causing a ticking noise. Adjusting this isn't a small job, but its a necessary one as the condition will cause excessive valvetrain wear. Can't say that's exactly the issue without hearing it, but it is a possibility.

Ah, another self deprecating thread. My favorite! Current total as of today is $36,407.16 and we haven't touched the paint or bodywork yet. I'm sure I'll be well on my way to $50k by the time that's all sorted. I can provide detailed receipts if anyone is interested