Chocoholic005

You'd be surprised how many 5 speed specific parts did not survive their removal from the vehicle. That being said, between the girlfriend and I, we have 6 cars. I'll be fine haha.

Heard a whole-lotta nothing after sending them those pictures. At some point I'll have to start looking into a rebuild on my own.

Ditto... someone buy me a new transmission

Sold.

Could be a broken shift fork; 3rd and 4th are on the same fork and could explain it. Does it feel different when you shift into those gear slots? The gate should still be there, but you could have less resistance into and out of gear.

I've got a Kuat Vagabond X basket that it looks like I won't be able to use. There's nothing wrong with it, no rust or damage. Comes with a brand new set of mounts, brand new bike hold down straps and brand new quick release axles. Holds two bikes with standard quick release mounting axles. Only reason I can't use this set-up is because my bikes have 15mm thru axles and can't be mounted without the front wheel. They don't make these anymore; I believe they sold for $500 new, so I'm asking $300 picked up. If you wanna ship it, i'm willing to look into it, but it's probably not gonna be cheap.

I won't hold my breath. Perhaps I'll see how hard it is to rebuild these things...

Completed break in with no major issues and took the vehicle for its first major journey; moving my girlfriend to Charleston. Unfortunately, the wagon didn't seem to particularly enjoy the Appalachians. The transmission started whining about 6 hours into the trip under load and that only got worse at the end of the first day. We were able to limp into Charleston, but it was clear the wagon wasn't going to make it back. The shipper dropped it off yesterday and we pulled the transmission this afternoon. Heavy metal glitter in the otherwise clean transmission fluid, and some small chunks on the front differential drain plug. My best guess is a front differential bearing, but I won't know for sure until it gets torn down. Talking with the company I got it from about potential reimbursement or something given it failed in just over 1000 miles, but since the 30 day warranty is about 8 months expired, I'm not expecting much. We'll see where we go from here...

If you're sticking with cast pistons, there's no need to do much more than an oil pickup, head studs and an 11mm oil pump. All of which have a questionable benefit on a stock shortblock, but they add peace of mind. I also did valves, springs, retainers and guides, but only because I was having brand new heads built and they didn't cost much extra.

If you're not interested, then you can keep it. There are multiple harnesses (2 pin vs. 3 pin) and the connector is white for both.

I will never understand why new people post in the photos section. Is it just the first thing you saw with the appropriate model year, so you went there? Sounds like it could be worn syncros. Doubtful that it would be linkage related, but you could check that.

Can you PM me a photo of the ash try wiring? Need to make sure its the right harness.

This is exactly why its shorter.

Unfortunately your pictures haven't come through; I understanding what you're saying, but a picture will help immensely. Was it driver or passsenger side exhaust manifold?

I'm afraid we're going to need a lot more information to diagnose. Why did you think replacing the oil pressure switch would fix an oil leak? Was the oil pressure switch leaking? Smoke from the exhaust probably means oil is dripping on the exhaust, but which side is smoking? Additionally, typically the pictures section is for pictures. You'll get better exposure in the proper section.

It's short on the firewall side so you can slide it upwards to remove without dropping the steering rack.

When does the clunking occur? Driving straight only? Turning only? Bumps only? A combination of these?

Depending how much money you need to make; you could do something as simple as a test driver for Roush, or a durability driver at FCA's Chelsea proving grounds. There's a lot of other jobs in the industry depending on your experience level that are attainable as well.

Stay west of Plymouth and you should be fine. Ypsilanti is nice, but expensive. Lots of auto industry jobs around here.

I can confirm the new versions do allow you to turn off DTC codes; I have the TGV codes and neutral position codes turned off on my tune. The only issue is you need to pay $150 or whatever to take their training course in order to gain access. Luckily I was able to contact them directly and reference an old copy of ATR I had that no longer was supported, and they provided me the updated copy for free. Loophole I guess.

Looked back at old pictures from my install; they definitely sit flush. I bought brand new inserts for used control arms. There could be part to part variations, or a part revision that changed them to be flush, but that's probably a longshot.

You might have a burr or something preventing it from sitting flush, as the aluminum is very soft. But regardless, you definitely need those to prevent damage to the control arm.

All of my vehicles appear to be working properly

Nothing about that photo says manufacturing defect to me; i'm not saying its not a manufacturing defect, but there's no evidence to say it is either. I'd have to look closer at the fracture pattern, but the fracture occurred exactly where you'd expect a crankshaft to fracture. It fractured right across the weakest portion of the part, and it isn't a clean failure.

Unless you're an engineer trained in metallurgy, I still think that's quite the leap.