Chocoholic005

You're gonna need more hoist space...

Empty hole; I have D25 heads on a B25 block without the air pump; so it may be used in other configurations.

Is there a reason you don't want to use your existing parts with new bushings?

I bolted mine to the back of the cylinder head. They reached and I didn't have to cut/extend anything. Edit: Now that I look back at what I did in my build thread, I actually made a bracket out of a spare piece of metal going from the cylinder head (pre-threaded hole) off towards the intake manifold. This bracket already had a captive nut on it; probably some random bracket or something I never used from the build that I ended up cutting. But you could do the same thing and just throw a bolt through it. See the pic below.

Hate to mention the obvious, but its a leap to say the crankshaft itself is the cause of the failure. Before you just throw a new crankshaft in and call it a day, you should diagnose why the crank broke. You should be trying to root cause the knock.

Yup, that should work just fine. You'll need the caliper brackets obviously, but otherwise you should be good to go.

Pretty much everyone with an 05-06 has experience with it, since its the stock turbo. Do a site search, there's more information than you could ever need.

I can't imagine that KW would sell an 05-09 legacy coilover kit and expect you to buy a part from a specific model to make it work. Regardless, yes I believe that is just the front for Bilsteins. I suppose this probably deserves its own thread.

That's a concern; KW has been making this system for like 15 years, I find it hard to believe there would be such a major flaw without them noticing. Nope, the top side is cupped and the bottom flat to match the spring. Can't flip flop it.

Its definitely supposed to be a bolt.

Pulled the rear coilovers out today because I was getting some odd noises from the rear suspension over big bumps. Upon inspection, the springs were bowed (in an arc rather than straight) and hitting the dust shield on one side. Looks like my top hats aren't sitting straight, but I can't figure out how KW expects that to be controlled. Called them, emailed some photos back and forth, and they just told me the top hat should be sitting in their purple spring seat further, which is impossible. Any thoughts?

Just remember... everyone in Michigan own's a lift. You're not cool if you don't have a lift.

To a point, this is the case for every engine. While some are better equipped to deal with it, any engine making only short trips will be worse for wear. I work for a major OEM; we had a customer engine come in with a crankshaft broken in half. It was his second such failure, and as a result, he had one of our data loggers fitted to his vehicle for the life of the engine. Turns out the guy was a mobile salesman (think matco, snapon, etc.) and only drove 1 mile at a time. 1 mile at a time with enough gap in between to ensure the engine never heats up. No engine in the world can stand that kind of abuse for years on end.

Blackstone would probably tell you that you're throwing away perfectly good oil. Its all about when the oil additives wear out; and 3000 miles is much too soon for a ~5 quart system that's daily driven. If you were racing and putting excessive heat into the system that could break down those additives, it would be a different story. My F-type's factory oil change interval (8 quart system) is 16k miles. By no means am I saying you should wait 16k miles, but that just goes to show 3k is a bit archaic for modern engines.

You should be fine; the linkage is the same. I believe STI models have a little different linkage in terms of length, but the Spec B should be the same. I'm running a Forester STI linkage in my legacy.

What door/color?

The tensioner holds the belt tight and thus all 4 camshafts in the same position relative to eachother. Once that tension is released, the camshafts all can move independent of one another. 2 or 3 will likely be in the closed (valve) position when the tension is released, so they shouldn't move much if at all. But 1 or 2 will be in the open position, meaning the valves are open, which is putting pressure on the lobes of the camshaft. Those valves aren't going to want to stay open once the camshaft is free to move, so the camshaft rotates as the valves slam shut. This is what you witnessed. Nothing to worry about here, as that's just natural. You could have prevented it using the tool that holds the intake/exhaust together, but its not a big deal. When you go to put everything back together, you don't need this tool, but it makes things a hell of a lot easier. Otherwise you'll probably need a second set of hands to hold/rotate the pulleys that want to sit in the valve open position when setting timing.

Your google drive isn't accessible. That being said; this sounds about right. When the timing belt is installed, at least one of the cylinders will have the valves open and want to snap shut when tension is released. There's a special tool to hold the cam gears in place (that you should have used to get the cam gears off) which helps you get everything correctly aligned when re-installing the belt.

Make sure you slowly crank the engine as you go; not all the oil galleys are perfectly lined up and can be blocked from flow.

I would trust what the piston manufacturer says, assuming they are pistons made specifically for your application. OEM piston ring clearances are made specifically for the stock pistons in stock boost conditions; too much boost and the rings can squeeze together and crack the piston ringland. Aftermarket pistons are obviously made for increased performance, they keep in mind that you're running more boost and are stronger than stock. All of this can effect piston ring gap. On top of it all, forged pistons have different thermal expansion than cast pistons and can change things too. Call the piston manufacturer if you're really concern and let them know the boost targets you're planning to run. They can properly advise you.

Made some more progress this weekend; we were able to pick up the majority of the wagon specific black rear interior pieces from a local subaru parts shop. The rest I purchased from subaru, including a brand new center console, which was pricey but totally worth it. Emily tore the rear tan interior pieces out and added some additional sound deadening material, while I swapped out the center console and e-brake boot. After cleaning up the new pieces, the rear interior went together minus the rear seats. Those rear seats we picked up the next day for $50 from a scrap yard who said they were in "rough shape". But a half an hour and a bit of leather cleaner later, and they're practically brand new. Very pleased with this acquisition. All I've got left now is the front seats (thinking Evo X recaros) and the door panels. I have 10 used door panels sitting in my basement, and hopefully I can make one good set out of the lot.

Lets ignore the coolant shooting out of the radiator for this one; the cooling system is a pressurized system. Every radiator may do this when you hit boost with the cap off; i don't know, I've never tried it, I don't know why you would. Regarding your cooling problem, i'm hearing two different things: 1. the coolant level drops. I assume it's dropping from the expansion tank? Is this correct? 2. with the cap on, the coolant runs into the expansion tank and overflows. Also correct? These two statements seem to contradict one another, and ultimately make it difficult to diagnose your problem. By chance, is the coolant draining from the expansion tank as the vehicle cools and overflows when its hot? Are you adding coolant when it runs out over and over?

The coolant system is a pressurized system, so when you run high rpm with the cap off... that could happen. Are you sure you got the air out of the system? It's not uncommon for some air to work its way out and lower the coolant in the expansion tank over time. If you're sure, you must have a leak somewhere; no sweet smell?

If your plan is to do only one mod at a time, tuning is going to kick your butt on your way to a VF52 setup. Example path: 1. buy accessport, use off-the-shelf (OTS) map. 2. buy downpipe, use new OTS map. 3. buy intercooler, could get by with OTS map, but best to get custom tune. 4. buy new injectors/fuel pump for turbo upgrade, requires new custom tune. 5. Anything else you do to prep. for turbo (TGV deletes, intake parts, etc.) requires new custom tune. 6. Finally install turbo, requires new custom tune. Every custom tune is gonna be a few hundred dollar hit; but if you're comfortable with that, there's no reason you can't do it piece by piece. Regardless, the AP is a good first step. It's most tuner's go to platform for these cars.

Oil is oil, you'll be fine