Chocoholic005

Yep; 4 strain gauges essentially. Currently they're worm clamped to simulate a load, but the air bag light is on. Not surprising, because this harness still has a few things not plugged into the new seat (because those plugs don't exist). I need to borrow/buy/find scanning software to pull the airbag codes so I can figure out what's upset. Once I get everything happy and the airbag light off, I'll worry about deleting things.

Yes. I would have preferred the leather, but this was all I could find in good shape at the time. And I'll thank you for the most helpful of write ups! Made the retrofit nice and easy, minus all the 05 passenger seat bullcrap. Hopefully I can figure that out.

Looking for the piece shown below in black. Also need some black driver's side door panels in above average condition. Both front and rear.

I saw a wagon with a 1JZ the other day... How quickly do you think we can blow that up?

Been lacking on the updates lately with the obligatory busy holidays and work schedule. Still trying to hunt down the phantom rattle coming from the transmission in neutral and really haven't driven the car out of the driveway since July. It's just going to sit this winter. Come spring I'll get it aligned, test drive it, and decide if I'm going to just live with the noise or tear the thing apart for a third time. Since we're not touching the drivetrain this winter, I've moved on to shoring up the interior. Over the Christmas holiday I installed a set of Recaro Evo X sport seats with planted technology adapters. The goal is to get these to work with the factory system flawlessly, but as I have an 05, that will obviously be complicated. It's a work in progress and I haven't decided if I like them enough to keep.

No problem for me; i've got nothing but time, so no rush.

No; DCCD is a center differential specific adjustment which your vehicle does not have.

pm'd

Rust free doors? Color?

Holy excessive fujibond!

It's unfortunate that the headgasket is blown, because doing a compression and leakdown test would be ideal before doing any work here. This would be the easiest way to evaluate the health of the engine overall, including the rings. It wouldn't be a terrible idea to consider a new shortblock if you're already planning to do all this work, as they only cost $2k from the dealer. I certainly wouldn't consider doing any bottom end work when this is an option; the extra cost won't be that significant. The turbo should be easy enough to check by hand; basically you want little to no play in the two turbines, which you can check with your fingers. The valvecover gaskets like to leak, but if you're doing the heads you'll do those anyways. Camshaft, rear main and oil pump seals aren't a bad idea, regardless if they're leaking.

You'll get there one day...

Obviously been a while; I actually got the trans installed right before the week of thanksgiving, but then I was out of town. Regardless, with the new (ClutchMasters supplied) throw out bearing, it still rattles, though admittedly less than before. Also seems to be somewhat intermittent; at one point I touched the shifter and it went away until I started the car next, but that phenomenon hasn't been replicated since. I'm at a loss at this point.

Gonna need more detail than "fuel assembly". You talking about the fuel pump? Fuel pressure regulator? Rails and injectors?

That's your main crankcase vent: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Wagon/Hose-Vacuum/49322374/99071AC220.html Huge pain in the butt to replace if that's your issue. Basically have to remove everything on top of the engine to get to the clamps.

There are also adapter parking brake pads if you'd prefer running 04' OEM STI rotors.

I won't deny it could be a TOB issue; but what specifically about the TOB is the issue? The installation? The bearing in relation to the fork? The bearing in relation to the clutch? Something internal to the bearing? No one has told me what the issue is or how to fix it. If people are having this problem and fixing it, no one has spoken up about it. Could it be misinstallation? Sure, but I installed it the same way I did the first time, so maybe unlikely? Open to feedback if someone experienced this due to misinstallation. At the moment, I have no other option but to install the new bearing when it arrives. If this fixes the issue, great! But it could also tell me nothing, and I've lost 8 hours of my life doing another transmission R&R. I'd like to avoid that if possible, so if anyone has feedback on a rattling TOB or alike, please let me know.

I understand you may have skimmed my thread for whatever reason, as is your right, but please don't make assumptions without reading fully. I clearly said I pulled the transmission in the first post, it's still not in the vehicle as I await a new TOB. I am an engineer for a major OEM, so I understand the part sourcing and quality process. I also know that the likelihood of a bearing being so far out of spec. to cause a rattle vs. being silent is relatively low. This chance is further reduced when I compared the new Subaru bearing to the original Clutchmaster's bearing, and found both to be dimensionally similar. The clutchmaster's bearing spun a little more freely, but I wouldn't think that would cause an inconsistent rattle. Replacing every part in the system clearly wouldn't be cheaper as that would include the clutch and the newly rebuilt transmission. Since, with it disassembled, I cannot find anything wrong, I came to the forum to ask for help; has anyone experienced the same thing? Does anyone know how to fix the issue? etc. Just driving with an unknown rattle that could destroy a $5000 transmission is insanity.

But it's a brand new bearing, direct from a subaru dealership. It rattled from the second I started the car up after installing the transmission. Unless Subaru is selling out of spec or faulty parts, throwing in a new bearing may not do anything. As an engineer, throwing parts at a problem and hoping you fix an issue is the exact wrong way to do things. And that doesn't even consider all the time I waste pulling the transmission over and over again. Obviously I'm not the first person to have this issue; is everyone just driving around like this? I've read many posts about TOB rattle but literally never seen someone outline how to fix it or what's wrong. I have a bearing on order from clutchmasters as a last resort, but I'd really like to be more confident that's going to fix the issue.

My instinct says buy a new TOB directly from clutchmasters (not OEM Subaru) since that part seemed to be fine to start. But I have no confidence that will actually fix the issue.

You're talking about a 5-speed setup. The 6-speed has no clips and the fork pivots on a shaft rather than a ball.

Which is the only thing I can think of given the symptoms... but how do I fix it? Throw out bearings are pretty dumb parts on a complexity scale. Considering it's literally brand new, I don't want to keep buying new TOBs and spending 8+ hours doing a trans R&R until I get a quiet one. Yeah; I tried that one already. No rattle from the springs.

I cannot for the life of me figure out anything wrong, so hopefully someone else can point me in the right direction. Some background: During my rebuild, I swapped the 5 speed out for a JDM Spec B 6 speed, Spec B flywheel and clutch masters FX100 clutch kit. I drove this for 1500 miles with no noticeable bellhousing rattle. During this time, the new to me transmission went out and needed to be rebuilt. Rallispec did a full rebuild. I replaced the clutchmasters throw-out bearing with a new subaru part as it was damaged during removal, and reinstalled the transmission. Now, from what sounds like the bellhousing area I have a light, consistently inconsistent rattle; almost like a rock getting kicked around every now and again. This occurs with the vehicle in neutral and the clutch pedal released. Once I get past the clutch engagement threshold, the rattle stops completely. I've pulled the transmission and clutch assembly. Everything looks fine, I'm not seeing any damage or misinstalled parts. I'd very much like to fix this for my own sanity. Thoughts?

I can vouch for him; I will say there was a mix-up with the shipping addresses, but we worked together to sort things out and he was in good contact for me.