gathermewool

How is that possible? It’s not changing ECM tables, right? Just a TPS bypass?

How is pedal commanders touchiness different than, say, simply flooring it? Unless this thing can command > 100% requested torque I don’t see the point. Besides, Subaru throttle response is touchy enough at low speeds. I can’t imagine making it worse!

Jesus Christ, NO. If your VIN is affected, simply make an appointment, show up (only if they concur you’re on the recall list), and if your VIN is on the list you get a new cat and header. This isn’t freaking rocket surgery folks!

Ah, OK. That makes sense. I must have missed “last car”. I would take it to an indie shop.

Scotty is a nutball, but he's 100% correct in this video.

It sounds like you DID find the cause, so...thanks for the heads up in case it happens to one of us. In all honestly, though, your thread seems more to point out that your dealer's service department is inept and not able to follow through with correct trouble-shooting an obvious DTC code than anything else. Good on you for figuring out it. I wouldn't waste any time going to the dealer, unless you bought the part from them and can somehow prove that it was the correct fix. This would NOT be worth the headache for me.

I've got a failing axle in my '14 FXT; front right. It clicks rapidly during turns. I'll get around to replacing it someday, if it gets worse. I've got the new CV shaft ready to go in my basement. Boots on the failing shaft are fine - all of the boots are fine.

Explain the process you used, in detail please. Or spray clear coat. I made the mistake of refinishing the lights in my previous '97 LGT and ended up right where you are now, OP. I ended up polishing them monthly with Nufinish to keep the haze down.

Recall does not imply failure. My car was operating normally prior to the recall replacement, as were most vehicles, I'd guess...

Sounds more like they slid into something like a curb on the right side and never reported it. I wonder if how the frame and front subframe line up. What were the symptoms for each time the the rack failed? What about the hub assemblies and end links?

Get the above-linked recall done

You still haven't answered how many miles and whether this will be the first plug change. Have you had time to drive after the cat replacement? Are you experiencing any issues now? If the plugs were already replaced at 60k I'd leave them alone.

Why did you leave Wawa hungry? What about what you posted was worth crying over? Cops? If you’re not doing anything illegal, [forget about] them! I used to get followed in my previous STI. I usually ignore them unless they’re being anuses. If they’re all up on my bumper, for instance, I usually pull over and let them pass. I don’t need to be baited into speeding or hit when they can’t brake in time during an emergency. One of the great things about driving a Legacy is that NO ONE, including the cops, even gives me a second look.

You’re too late to the party. Also, it’s not a very long thread for you to say it’s TL;DR...

So, dealer #1 did the first change and dealer #2 is saying they’re going to void your warranty if dealer #1 botched the job? Unreal! Good luck to dealer #2, I say! Idiots!

What is your mileage? If your spark plugs are even close to due, I’d do it. If they were already done, then don’t bother. Get your free cat and move on.

Did the previous owner do the service or did he have it serviced? Have the dealer drain and refill before the issue worsens.

OR, and here’s a wild notion: do what ammcinnis recommended and take it to a dealer for the recall...

+1 I’d choose just the lip.

I’m sorry I wasn’t clearer with my sarcasm, bud. I didn’t actually think they’d disconnect the lines - that would be ludicrous! So, all in all, it sounds like what they’re offering isn’t too far from reasonable. Have you inquired with a local shop how much lower they can do everything for?

The brake lines are disconnected!? WTH kind of flush is that??? A flush is through the caliper vent point.

What KIND of miles are you putting on your vehicle? Infrequent long trips or frequent short trips? If the latter (or even close to it), stick with your annual oil change.

Why was the CVT cracked into? Why were your coils replaced, not to mention ALL of them? Stupid question: is one of your wheels slightly bent, unable to be balanced? When WAS your last balancing?

That was the case with my local dealer, when I asked why it was so cheap. Also, the diff service seems to be low for a full drain and fill, but too expensive for a simple level check. I’d be curious to know what they do for this service. I’d also add an ATF/CVT fluid exchange into the mix. I plan to do mine every 50k+ miles for each of my Subies.