gathermewool

I own two of these to check chargers when I buy them. Note: currently unavailable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QCYQJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0dPEEbDMZ3YSF __________________ '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (54,621 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where * Quick Reply Message: * Options Show your signatureQuote message in reply? « Previous Thread | Next Thread » Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (1 members and 0 guests) gathermewool Posting Rules You may post new threads You may post replies You may post attachments You may edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On code is On HTML code is Off Forum Rules Forum Jump All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:01 PM. Contact Us - LegacyGT.com - Archive - Top vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise v2.6.3 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. LegacyGT.com

I’ll second getting a cheap battery maintainer. They usually come with a ring-connector harness, so that plugging in and disconnection is as easy as for a table lamp. No settings to deal with on the simpler ones, either. Just don’t start the car and/or back out with it still plugged in! I noticed the same. It never drained our batteries fully, but enough to be noticeable with a simple voltage check. We now keep our key fobs in a metal box in the kitchen island.

Can’t hear anything. It might help if you left the key in ACC and let the bling bling bling expire before starting.

Something wrong with your foot!?

Very nice

Thanks, bud. I purchased the door speakers without really considering replacing the dash speakers. I was looking for a mild improvement but ended up with a modest improvement in sound quality. I now want to extend that to the dash tweeters, if it's not too much trouble. I'd have no issues soldering in "bass blockers", but I'm not sure where to begin there. I don't want to butcher the wiring, either, so I may end up stuck with what's there.

I spoke with Crutchfield about possible upgrades to the dash speakers and they replied that unless I have a Harman Kardon system I DON'T have dash speakers. If I DID, they said they recommend a tight-fitting 2-way 3.5" speaker. I just replied with a picture of my dash grill removed to prove to them that I do indeed have dash speakers and asked whether mod'ing in tweeters, like some of you have, would be a better choice. I don't mind the idea of having another two-way up front, but I do NOT want it sucking power from and detracting from the 6X9s.

That’s exactly right. The lows are more accurate, though surprisingly not any louder, while the mids and highs are noticeably clearer. I jammed out to only two songs so far as a test and was please with the improvement: The Weeknd, Blinding Lights; and Salem’s Gomez, Rare, which has a cool descending base line that sounds GREAT on my home SVS PB-1000 sub pair and is more easily rendered with the new speakers compared to the stockers. The prep and install of the Dynamat, even though it wasn’t much, took a good proportion of the time. I thought I’d just slap some in from an old kit I’ve had for around 8 years, but ended up scrubbing the panel with isopropyl alcohol, measuring pieces as accurately as I could and installing with my arm in the panel during install of the deadener, sometimes past my elbow. The door shuts with a little bit more of a thud, but the biggest difference is while knocking on the panel with a knuckle. It’s not drastic (not enough weight), but is noticeable. I’m just hoping I notice some improvement on the road and that all of that work work was for something.

I continued down my list of projects and maintenance items that I’ve been putting off. Last night I installed Audio Ordnance two-way 6X9” in the front and 6.5” in the rear of our 15 Legacy Premium. They were cheap speakers @ ~$115 for all four speakers from Crutchfield, including install kit. Stock HU, no amp. Sound is much better, even though it’s got the same input. I’ve always believed that one needed at least an upgraded HU to make a speaker upgrade worthwhile, but I just proved myself wrong. The reason I always thought aftermarket speakers would suck with the stock radio, is because they would be so under-powered that they’d distort easily. So, I chose these relatively low-power aftermarket with pretty good sensitivity to try (90/88 dB front/rear). I was also surprised that Subaru stuffs a 5” front speaker into a giant plastic 6X9” adapter! Way to cheap out! I also judiciously added half of a two-door Dynamat sound deadener kit to ALL FOUR DOORS. I tried to get as much as I could in the center of the door panel to maximize deadening. I’ll probably use the rest on the Forester when I get the chance and if I notice an improvement on the road with the Legacy. See the below link to my BITOG post, which has pictures embedded. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5382701#Post5382701

I’ve got OE links on order for $30 cheaper. I’d rather the added articulation for that price.

How much were your Kartboy EL?

Good to go then. Are your endlinks spherical or solid? I haven’t had aftermarket links in years. I had an issue in the past with Perrin links that rattled like crazy. They seemed fine, but luckily Perrin was awesome and graciously sent me new links, which solved the problem!

Man, that looks absolutely terrible! Are those 10” subs in the rear deck??? The good ol days, amiright? I had amped, BOXED set of 6X9” that I had to drop the back seats to listen to in my first car as a teen. I was worried about someone stealing them...they did sound pretty darned good! I would never have had the balls to display FOUR speakers, like that! Holy moly! // Red tops don’t seem to garner the same respect as they used to. If you plan on running anything while the vehicle is off, I’d opt for a deep-cycle battery instead. Better yet, keep the engine running. I like everything you’ve done in your Subie, except for the intake. CAIs haven’t been cool in small, low-powered, pedestrian 4-bangers since the 90s. Finally, the stock endlinks will be fine for the 20mm RSB. Just be prepared to replace the, if the stupid Allen key strips out and you’re forced to destroy the, to get them off.

I also want to note that the 15 Legacy FB25 front diff did not take as much fluid as the 14 FXT. The 14 FXT actually took slightly more than 1.5 qts. The Legacy took ~1.25 quarts, maybe a little less. I was worried, because I only had 1.4L (1.48 quarts) of Motule Gear 300 and, like I said, the FXT took a little more than 1.5 quarts to fill. I had half a quart left of M1 w/ LS additive, but really didn't want to mix gear oils. I'm sure it would have been fine, but having a complete fill with just the Motul gear lube would be ideal, which is what ended up happening anyway!

The winning combination pictured below: 14" 1/2" drive breaker --> 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter --> 8mm 3/8" drive hex key -----I had the Craftsman breaker, purchased with points before all of the local branches when under -----I picked up the adapter and hex socket from HF I tried to open-palm the breaker bar as much as possible, but still managed to slightly bust my pinky knuckle as the plug let go with loud POP!!!, ripping way a 1/4" of skin in the process... The next hardest part was getting the diff full and THEN lifting the car to re-install the overflow-check plug. I had to lift the rear up and shimmy under, since the overflow/check plug is on the rear driver-side of the front diff. I knew I was on the right track when I began to lift and the slight dribble through the port, indicating that the diff was full, completely stopped. MAN DO I MISS HAVING ACCESS TO A LIFT!!! The Forester front diff was MUCH easier to do, because the fill port is the vent port, which requires pulling a vacuum-style hose which is connected via o-ring seal only. There's also so much clearance that I didn't have to lift to vehicle to shimmy under and re-install its overflow/check port. I posted pics here at BITOG (you'll notice that post looks pretty darned similar to this one lol) -----You can hose pics on BITOGs servers, which saves me time from having to go to tinyurl to do so here... https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5377943/re-8mm-hex-impact-1-2-drive-suggestions#Post5377943

I did try this, as well as two types of penetrant (PB Blaster and Deep Creep) without any success. My next post will explain how I succeeded.

Can’t use a jack in this instance. The exhaust (specifically the cat) runs just beneath this area. I’m going to buy a hex impact socket and an extension and see if I can finagle my breaker bar past either port or stbd side of the cat. Using just a 10mm hex key I was able to loosen both rear diff plugs BY HAND! I was thrilled. I had to use a breaker bar on our 14 FXT, it was so tight. The difference, I think, is that the FXT has pipe threads (and likely sealant), while the Legacy has straight threads with a gasket on each plug.

I read those as a reference, but they don't help my situation. Also, there's a lot of rubber and plastic in the vicinity, so heat is problematic.

Using a standard 8mm hex key that fits in the space without much extra room I'm UNABLE to get the fill plug to budge even a little. What did you guys who have replaced your front dif lube do to get it loose? I'm going to by an 8mm hex 1/2" drive and hope it's just long enough to give my 1/2" drive breaker bar some room to break this thing loose. Note: I'm not talking about the T70 drain nor 8mm overflow plugs. This is the plug on the side of the diff, above and to the left of the passenger front drive shaft. // Sidenote: the rear diff plugs came off, no problem. I'm letting the rear diff drain as I type this. Before this I finished replacing the front/rear diff oil in our '14 FXT, which was MUCH easier!!!! The FXT doesn't have an under tray with a dozen clips to remove and DOES have an easily-accessible breather tube to use for filling.

The OEM battery is still going strong in my 14 FXT w/ ~77k miles, even though it just tested weak using an Ironton 125A load bank and indicated, “replace battery” using an inductive checker (Foxwell BT100 Pro) that out it at 68% SOH (state of health). The OE battery in my 15 Legacy (not sure if original, since I purchased the car used @ ~36k miles a couple of years ago) tester good with both testers. I use a dumb DC power supply to overnight-charge my starter batteries at 14.4 VDC every 1-3 weeks. As an aside, I even charge my kids’ Power Wheels’ 6VDC and 12VDC batteries with the power supply, since it’s more effective than the supplied chargers.

1. Changed the motor oil. Out goes Magnatec 5W-20 and in goes Magnatec 0W-20. ——-I didn’t change the Fram Ultra filter. This will be its second OFI. 2. Lubed all latches, pivot points and springs. ——- Spray cans of white lithium grease for pivot points and silicone for springs and latches 3. Air: all tires still at 36# cold, even after a few thousand miles, including a 2k miles road trip. 4. Battery: hooked up the DC power supply for an overnight 14.4VDC charge I think that’s it

Looks great, Doug!

I've used the blue gasket that comes with the Fumoto valves on multiple vehicles without any issues whatsoever. @BeardedWon, it loos like your valve is up and out of the way, just like my two Subies ('14 FXT and '15 Legacy), so I doubt the black clip is necessary. Well, unless it's super easy to remove at each oil change; I guess it doesn't hurt if that's the case.

Well, there is always the chance for leaks or some other method of underfill, including from the factory. However, your point still stands and Subaru likely added the ability to perform a D&F for our intended purpose - maintenance of a limited-life fluid.

Sounds great