gathermewool

Sounds like a good combination. How much did you pay for the ABE?

1. What you did sounds great and those temperatures will probably result in the ability for extended CVTF change intervals. Great job! I hope you open up that filter and share its contents with us one day. How long do you plan on running that filter before changing it out? 2. No one in their right mind believes that ANY AT fluid is lifetime, unless you consider "lifetime" as one of the following, depending on who you ask: a. The end of the warranty period b. 100k miles c. 150k miles Again, great job!

I never realized that you had a dual-exhaust. What are you actually running?

huh???

Thanks, but the question was rhetorical and in response to Bris. Maybe I mistook your quoting me, but it seemed as if you were being a douche, picking out a simple spelling error ('her' instead of here') in 'nothing new her". In case you honestly didn't get it, I'll apologize. I meant to say that there's "nothing new herE". Regarding the remainder of your post, I understand what you mean. While there's a lot of speculation, it's generally understood that the biggest benefit to Subaru will likely stem from Toyta EV/hybrid tech, since this Subaru has not shown us that they are able to pull of anything even close to acceptable on their own, let alone a sole push for EV in even a small number of their offerings. I believe this speculation, because it seems pretty obvious that ANY small make would struggle with a proposed paradigm shift, such as this. I don't consider Subaru's initial offering of the Xtrek hybrid as even a good starting point, to be honest, and hope that their plan is to implement tried-and-true Toyota tech into their lineup with as little affect cost as possible. They're latest offering is promising, but still doesn't impress much. It'll be interesting to see where Subaru is in 2030...Hell, it'll be interesting to see where Subaru is COMPARED TO everyone else when it comes to EV tech. Would you buy a 2030 Subaru that compares in mileage and range to TODAY'S plug-ins and EVs when Toyota itself will likely be well beyond Subaru? For all we know, Subaru will be like Scion to Toyota by then.

No, I meant, 'nothing new her...' What, you don't speak ghetto? How long has the BRZ/FR-S been around?

If you REALLY want to make your battery last, connect a cheap smarter-charger every moment you're not using the vehicle. For me, I weekly connect a DC power supply to the vehicle and maintain a 14.4VDC (nom) charge for < 24 hrs.

Toyota has had a large share in what used to be FHI for a long time; nothing new her...

Why not? It takes five seconds to check the level in your coolant reservoir. No. With that said, I do smell a small coolant leak with my '15, but it hasn't resulted in a noticeable loss, let alone any obvious loss vector.

I like those wheels much more than what you've posted in the past! I'm still in favor of light, forged wheels, but at least you've upgraded from previous deep-dish-pizza platters!

It just dropped in place

Thanks for the info. What you say makes sense about actual power consumption. I've got a pretty simple home theater setup: two powered Klipsch R-28PF floor standing speakers with dual powered SVS PB-1000 subs. Based on my inline power meter, I notice very little difference in draw between listening to music at low volumes and a booming action scene while watching a movie. I.e., whereas my power meter won't likely indicate peak draw, it should indicate relatively accurately during sustained action scenes, and that draw is lower than I would have thought.

You're probably right. I'll admit that I'm no audiophile and base my opinion only on past experience/ what I've heard. Do you know the spec's for the OE Premium speakers, say, for a '15 Legacy? Assuming the sensitivity between two sets of aftermarket speakers is much greater than the stock speakers, wouldn't the aftermarket speaker with a lower power handling capacity be better suited for a lower power head-unit? I.e., I was assuming that a MUCH higher power handling capacity speaker would tend to utilize the low power available worse than a lower power handling capacity speaker. I'm comparing speakers I've used in the past (100W+ RMS) to what I just purchased (2-55W RMS), based on the above assumption and as a test. I've also been out of the game for around a decade, so I'm taking baby steps getting back in. Background: I'm basing the above logic on the few times I've installed mid-to-higher-end aftermarket speakers, then replaced the HU, then added an amp, usually in that order. i'm by no stretch of the imagination a guru but have personally replaced speakers on stock HU's and been disappointed with the outcome. From what I remember, there was a LOT of low-frequency output lost, mids were muddled at higher volumes and the overall sound was always garbage when pushed to levels comparable to where I used to jam out with an all-OEM setup. Except for low-level listening, it was a net loss by what recall to be every other metric. IME, a cleaner signal from an aftermarket HU was a night-and-day improvement, even though the actual power output isn't that much greater than an OEM HU, relative to the capacity of the speakers themselves (due to obvious heat/space limitations). In certain situations, the stock paper speakers sounded better than the aftermarket speakers, especially for bass-heavy music, and if I really wanted to jam out. Add even a small amp and the difference is night-and-day. I remember the first time I amped a pair of boxed 6X9" Alpine 3-ways circa 2000 (a lot of theft at my HS, so I had to go for boxed speakers in the rear, to keep the stock look); I forget which aftermarket speakers I had in the front. For this non-audiophile, it made a lot of my music sound like heaven! I added a single 10" RF sub (whatever preceded the P-series model) and I thought I was hot shit back then. Since then and up until I got my STI I was happy with an aftermarket HU and mid-level speakers. The STI was so bad with NVH that I never really even listened to the radio. I preferred to listen to the drive-train instead. Now, I'm hoping I'll be happy with some lower-end two-ways in my Legacy. My wife's FXT has the HK stereo, which I find to be just OK. I'll upgrade the speakers, if the experiment with the Legacy shows positive results.

100W RMS on the stock head unit!? No thanks

Where are you? Has the cooling system ever been touched? Non-Subaru fluid used?

I would imagine that you would notice overheating at a stand-still as well as high road speeds if the water pump impeller has eroded away or broken-up. Neither is likely with such low mileage.

Pay attention to the actual values, not the single degree rise. The temperatures he's noting are high, especially if he's noting these with the thermostat removed, as well...

Any updates on this? Replacing the cap is cheap and easy. Also, are you still under warranty?

Be careful with the speakers you choose. The relatively low-quality speakers and materials selected for base stereo system are matched to what the stock radio can output, which isn't much. On the flip side, expensive, high-quality speakers are designed to be driven by an external amp. You'll want to keep an eye on the power handling range and capabilities of the speakers you purchase. You may be disappointed in the output if you're trying to drive your 100W RMS 3-way speakers with your stock head-unit. // MY philosophy has always been to upgrade your source before your speakers. Whether this is simply by updating the head-unit, where possible, or adding a Digital Signal Processor (DSP) and an amp, providing a cleaner, more powerful signal is more important to receive better sound quality from even the stock speakers, especially keeping the above in mind. With that said, I'm not willing to spend the money on any of that for this car right now, so I decided to give go against my own philosophy by upgrading the speakers first, just to gain some perspective. I went with Sound Ordnance P69B (front) and P65B (rear) from Crutchfield. They're lower-powered (~2-50W RMS) and two-ways. We'll see how they do when I find the time to install them.

K&N washable cabin filter. Will not be going back to a paper filter any time soon. Right. Follow the instructions. K&N sells a refresh kit. At the very least, if one needed to save a buck, I'd recommend cleaning with a gentle stream of water and then let it air-dry.

Bingo. I wonder if the tech going through the list would inform the service writer of the mistake re: PSF. Your coolant isn't due yet and I haven't read any benefits to exceeding the book on this PM item.

I'm going mainly based upon instructions used for assembling fasteners for nuclear applications. If it's good enough for a nuke application, it's good enough for me. MY main concern with strut bars and stiffeners of this sort is the stud strength itself, which is why I totally understand wanting to have nothing but full threads holding down the strut, not to mention an additional support, like a strut bar. So, I'll clarify my statement to say that so long as all threads of the fastener are fully engaged and flush with the nut, I'm fine with it. That is also to say that the stud should be flush with nut before tightening, too, so you're not jacking the strut bar down with, say, only partial thread engagement, which could result in pushed threads.. // Have you contacted SSD? What did they say about the bar not mounting flush to the strut top? Is it a 2019 thing or a JDM thing? // I'll count thread for both the Legacy and Forester and get back to you tomorrow.

2+ threads would be desirable, but flush is acceptable with zero torque applied. Excess thread protrusion adds nothing to the strength of the joint. The issue with not being flush while finger-tight, is that you'll be putting excessive torque on the first few flats, as opposed to all available flats within the nut.

Don't be so hard on yourself. Most of us have been there at one point or another. To most, I can imagine the dealer seems like the safest, most honest choice. My experience does not back that up. In reality, I find myself having to do research here and on other Subie websites BEFORE taking my car in for warranty work. If I don't, I would more often than not get a, "could not replicate" note upon return. Regarding maintenance, you'll thank us when/if you find a good mechanic. There are some shady mechanics out there, too, so be wary and make sure you sign off on an ACCURATE work ticket BEFORE letting them begin work. Maintenance items are explicit, so there's no reason why you can't get what will be done for what price in writing on a work-order. // With all of the said, I had my CVT "flushed" by one of my local dealers. I don't trust my nearest dealer; however, conversations with other local dealers' service writers, including a quick knowledge check about fluids required, etc. lead me to choose that dealer for that work item only.