gathermewool

Buy an IR temperature gun and point it at each rotor/caliper to see if one is higher. The higher temp one could be sticking. If a caliper is really sticking you’ll be able to feel it by putting your hand up to the rim and feeling the radiant heat.

Good for you, bud. GL!

I'm not sure why you're quoting me, since the person I qouted used wildly different temps. Also, oil temps vary wildly depending on where the oil is in the engine. Bulk and pan temperature will be MUCH lower than at the ring-pack or turbo outlet. I'm always happy to see manu's provide technical data, but only the physical properties of the oil should matter, not anything else they post as marketing.

Where are you getting those upper temp “ratings”!?

Where you measured is a visual indication of the minimum legal read depth. So, you’re likely to REmeasure at 4-5/32. I usually start shopping for new tires at 3/32nd, as well, but would do so sooner if I didn’t have a dedicated winter set of wheels and tires.

I don’t disagree. I’d run XW-30 in an FA24DIT if the owners manual gave me the allowance.

Good job, bud. I still don't understand his intentions. Is he looking to get himself sued? How in the hell would he know how much life is remaining? Does he take into account the wear rating, 200 vs 800, manu vs manu? It's probably just an eyeball assessment, which isn't helpful. /rant

Rotella changed their formula to meet API-SN almost a decade ago. Your OP makes it seem as if you don't know what the numbers in XW-XX mean. "ditch the 0 weight"? I think you mean who will ditch the 20 weight and go with an XW-30 instead of 0W-20. Personally, if I had a newer XT (currently own a '14 FXT) I'd stick with what the manual says, UNLESS there was an out. Does your manual state that 5W-30 is acceptable? If so, I'd stick with a quality 5 or 0W-30.

Guys, OP hasn't logged on since 5/31.

For the cost of a tow I'd go out and buy a code reader this instant. If this isn't your DD, I'd just go on Amazon and buy a cheapie one. If it's not the CVT, just realize that you'll be on the hook for the cost of the tow. Some good info by all, but I'd recommend against anything other than external inspections of the CVT by yourself. You're covered by the extended Subaru CVT warranty, so don't mess with it. I'd also try disconnecting the battery by disconnecting the cable from the negative terminal on the battery, hit the brake pedal a few times to discharge any capacitance, then reconnect and see what happens. I doubt it will resolve your problem, but it costs you nothing to try.

Glad to hear they're going to fix it; however, I'd find out what the "fix" is before taking it in to them. They may end up putting four used tires on there that have the same tread depth. Depending on the tires, that may be a good thing or a bad thing. / There's no such unit as "miles left". The only helpful units are of tread depth in 32nd of an inch. We can infer from what the tech gave you that the tires are severely mismatched, but I find it odd that he "dumbed it down" to "miles left" for you, as if you couldn't compare something like 4/32" to 8/32" on your own. Heck, he could have done the math for you re: remaining tread depth and given you a % of tread left, which isn't as helpful as having the actual tread depth numbers, but more helpful than "miles left".

95, sheesh! we're only just above 90 here, but with no wind today it was sweltering! Good on you for pushing through the heat!

I hope that looks better in person! What'd you take that picture with, an iPhone 4S?

Your EGR pics look normal. The code is a circuit issue. Instead of jumping to conclusions, I’d check the wiring harness and connector of issues; if not, reconnect and clear the code. If it comes back then you’ve either got a bad EGR valve (electrically) or something in the upstream wiring is messed up. I had a stuck open EGR solenoid on my previous ‘97 Legacy that never caused these kinds of issues. The only code I ever got was for the EGR system (very generic - took me a long time to trouble-shoot). Our EGR system is much difference, so I’m not sure how to trouble-shoot it beyond what I’ve stated above. My only point is that wouldn’t be convinced that the two are related unless something else is the cause, such as melted wiring along the same harness (e.g., if the #2 cylinder wiring AND EGR wiring were melted or something) / When you say #2 isn’t coming up as often, what do you mean? It’s either still an issue or it isn’t. / Flopping injectors isn’t a bad idea.

There are only so many places to spray soapy water, right?

All higher-HP-optioned Subies with CVTs have HTCVTs.

I’m really sorry to hear this, GL! Is this just for the HTCVT? I’m at nearly 80k miles now on the ‘14 FXT, so I’ll have to take a thorough look sometime soon. I may even pay to have a shop take a look, since I don’t have access to a lift any longer. Like Ares, I’m not optimistic about your chances with SOA. Also, if they’re not willing to play ball, have you looked at how much other shops would charge? I can’t imagine it being nearly as high as the dealer.

Sounds like compression and leak down tests are in order.

Wait, have you singled out the bad relay? Replace it! I haven't run an oscilloscope on anything since college, so I can't give you specifics on what to see. The fact that you know what pulse width modulation is (although that's a pretty vague term), I'd bet you be successful finding a good page on settings for the scope and what the waveform should look like. From what I remember back in the day, the signal is not PWM, like you'd see in a modified sine wave, but a pulse with a certain width for duration of injector open, period. I.e., more throttle, wider pulse width, more fuel injected. If you post up here a pic of your scope it might jog my memory; some of us can also use the ethernets to help you research whether your waveform looks good, too!

You’re talking about coil (RE: 100 part), right? Just swap two coils and see if the the issue follows.

As you mentioned, the coil would be my first suspect. You need to find out which relay is going “nuts”. Have you checked the fuel pump relay?

Gl, gl

Wouldn't want to stand in the way of progress, would we??? Personally, I'd prefer they replaced the 3.6 with the legendary AMC 4.0 found in so many "bulletproof" 90's Jeeps. Who wouldn't love dat long ass hood, yo!

That's what it's all about, and why most people like me, who don't like the fake-shifting, aren't hating on those who like them. I was EXPECTING to hate the CVT in our '14 FXT when I traded our '08 STI for it (long story). After only 15 minutes of test-driving I was sold. I think it's the perfect implementation of CVT logic. If you want it to behave like a CVT, do nothing. If you want it to behave like "sporty" 8-speed, hit the S# button. If you're not familiar, there are three modes, in order of "sportiness" and aggressiveness I-mode: no simulated shifts, maintains RPM as low as possible. The is the default mode (every time you start the vehicle, it defaults to this mode); this is the mode my wife uses 99% of the time. It still provides full power if you floor it. S-mode: no simulated shifts, maintains RPM a few hundred high than I-mode for quicker turbo response when you get on it. This is the mode I use 99% of the time. S#-mode: DOES simulate shifts, maintains revs same as S-mode, except when you drive aggressively; it will keep revs UP instead of down-shifting immediately, assuming you'll be getting on it, engine-braking, then getting on it again some time soon. I hate this mode in auto. I don't need to floor it, let off and have the revs hanging at 4-5K RPM for no reason. If I want to drive aggressively, I usually drive in S-mode auto or S#-mode manual. // As for the '15 Legacy, I like that it acts like a CVT at low loads. I honestly don't mind it fake-shifting at moderate loads, since it seems to respond pretty quickly. It's at around 70%+ load where it seems to affect actual performance, in that it can't shift quickly enough and does so needlessly at higher RPM, since an N/A CVT would be at max HP by staying put at whatever high RPM is needed. Shifting to a lower ratio is literally only for the driver to feel that sensation and for no good reason at all.

Which would....also simulate shifts. We want NO shift points.