Merc6

I been slowly wondering if I should replace/reman my alternator and starter while the engine is out.

I did get the 11 blade so why not just keep on saving for 30 more HP? At this point I'm going to just wait till everything is in and on the car so it's tuned 1 time. I was gonna try and do a break in tune then real tune but most likely I'm not going to make a road trip to any of the tuners suggested in these threads.

Yay a Ohio running SWP!

*Buy the non flips. *Get them cut *Get the(all in one remotes) programed using the steps listed *Get dealer to program the chips. *Drive away with working all in 1 key All the flips do is take the all in 1 remote and chip and put them in a pretty package that I just had to have because the 05 key is ugly as sin and the all in 1 looks Toyotaish.

I have 3 working keys and may just gut my 2 working ones for the fobs. 3rd is for remote start and is only a valet key.

Here inside the key you cut. http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/91177DC6-37DA-4742-B01D-0F57B1B745BD_zpsswgppmhj.jpg~original

I forgot I need a pill for my 52 awap. LOL same here,2 kids and night shift. next month I may get the heads sent off and attempt LCA swap.

I want to do injectors and pump but seeing you went 72k trouble free miles I may just run my 52 with stock fuel and tune from there. At this point my HP goals is a running car with no issues or short cuts.

My only 330 intent was the gumball/snowball rally. outside of that too far a drive.

At this point they would be like mine already cut making you buy blanks which cost as much as the flip housing. I did skip the cut of the all in one key. Or best offer, try it out.

It's kinda what that does but the "Fixed it" way. you take the seat belt buckle and twist it just before buckling the seat belt.

have you twisted the seat buckle once round and pulled belt out till it clicks?

LOL how did it let you post in the quote section? I may just have a shop do it. Close, 80K

So it's a homemade body side hammer thingy for unsticking ball joints?

That is an updated pic of it, not a recycle.

Mine looks like it sat at the bottom of Lake Erie when I got mad halfway though the build thread and pushed it in. I been wanted to move to the south! http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/6DCDD4EA-1091-4050-BD76-17EFBB3D3CA4_zpsjuovdpcb.jpg

Bumpski! 5EAT so no flywheel issues, does underdrive cause charging issues for us?

Has anyone used this? Just trying to figure out what would make my life easier since it's all looking bad. http://www.company23.com/subarutools/532

Google rock auto discount codes and enter them in at checkout.

No engine so ramps may be difficult, may have to go with the jack route.

Good to hear, hopefully mine goes semi ok. Sway bar end links came off and back on better with wheel under load or hanging freely?

Anymore people instal these? Probably get mine on around mid summer time. Seems like rust got worse since last time.

Not since F4 days. Best I could suggest is NEOSOC off facebook but I haven't gone to any meets. Feels weird showing up to a Subaru meet in a Chevy. Legacies are plentiful here in N/A form but every now and then i get to spot a random GT/Sherk B still in service. This year feels like the year mine will run again.

Those axles were american made and recalled a few times. The most common part to fail for us is the water pumps.

LOL yeah the DD not the Legacy. Some parts are marked Daewoo if you dig deep enough. Quickest part to identify w/o taking car apart is the rear struts. Some parts are also marked Republic of Germany and those usually run a hefty price. T20 screw to hold on airdam is $30 USD Cruze was developed and released overseas while the Cobalts were still being made. Not gonna bore you with what Wiki can already describe. You got Chevy/Holden Cruze and Daewoo Lacetti. One of these days I'll get around to installing the LCA's and springs. Not looking forward to it since everything is rusted on there real good.