BAC5.2

Hmm. These LCA's mean we could run the 2011 STi spherical/rubber bushing LCA instead of the failure prone stock ones or poly ones from WL, right?

 

Interesting.

What was the final drive in them? Could you get a 3.90/4.11/4.44 ring and pinion for them? What about axle splines?

Why not take an oe carrier and spiders and send them to get cryod. It will be a lot cheaper and much stronger than standard oe stuff. That's more than likely what kaz is doing for the most part

 

Cryo-treatment only has significant benefits when it's a part of the original heat treatment process. Simply dumping parts into liquid nitrogen can improve impact toughness and hardness, but at the cost of forcing the part to become more brittle. That's one of the reasons they do it with tool steels, because an extremely hard tool is going to be stiffer and deflect less under load, the trade off is a brittle tool that fails catestrophically.

 

Micropolishing does work, but the improvement isn't significant. All it does is give uniform surface flatness to all components, so that there is no "minimum" diameter on any one component (which would be the location of failure). Micropolishing would work on a new component, but on a used component where cracks may have already formed, it won't do anything.

 

I've worked with a LOT of gear manufacturers. 9/10 times, aftermarket cryo-treatment has resulted in no change in the frequency of failure. One retailler of STi gearsets told me over the phone that Cryo was the best marketing he could have asked for. Failure rated were the same, but people loved to think that cryo'd gears were going to be stronger. The biggest benefit of a cryo process during manufacturing is exactly what Frank said; an increase in wear resistance.

 

If you were going to break something that wasn't cryo'd, you'll likely break something that is.

You're right. But they are much more durable than stock, that was my point.

 

I was just looking at the KAAZ site, and they say $1175 retail for the rear. It's $1600 for the center diff.

Looking again, it appears they are about $1k-$1100 now. They used to be barely $700. That sucks.

 

It doesn't matter what diff you run, so long as it doesn't have spider gears anymore. Those are what fail. An R160 can take PLENTY of abuse when fitted with a non-spider differential.

Look into the KAAZ. It's cheap (~$700 IIRC) and it works great. It's a little noisy, but all clutch-type diffs are.

 

Anything with spiders will get chewed up.

street signs in canada are aluminum well at least quebec ..

 

You could make a tidy profit by "obtaining" signs, "sanitizing" them, then selling them in the USA for scrap.

 

The price of aluminum is pretty high these days.

i am fairly sure i can get mine to pass smog testing .

 

Your exhaust could consist of cats from headers to tips, pass smog better than a Prius, and still out run almost any LGT here.

I think I would have done a scoop delete, and just had a bump in the hood (like a 370Z)

M12x1.25

 

And yes, the collar slides up into the shift knob.

Manual transmission cars dont launch on boost.

 

They do if your doing it right...

 

...and don't care about breaking anything.

I'll take the driveshaft and transmission crossmember!

I've thought about deleting the air pump, simply to make maintenance a little easier.

Never heard of it.

 

But when I saw the link, I thought it said "nutshield", so I hesitated.

 

I have ZAGG's InvisibleSHIELD on my iPhone and iPad. Works great. I wish Apple would use Gorilla Glass, though, so I don't have to use a screen protector.

Email me. We might be able to work something out.

The ALK is the same as the rear LCA bushing for our cars.

 

Living Legacy - It's your morals, not mine.

I had an issue with my KCA399. One of the bores was to small and it seized on the bolt. They shipped me a new set with a brand new set of bolts. They are very good people to work with. I still haven't replaced it, because getting that bolt out is going to be a major PITA.

 

I can't wait to install my WL catalog! I've got the LCA's (front and rear), the RCK, Steering Rack bushings, and the replacement KCA399 to go in. Probably going to do it when I swap springs in the next few weeks.

 

The way I see it, is that the stock bushings are so loose that the bump NVH caused by them is greater than or equal to what the whitelines will be. When I installed the KCA399, NVH actually decreased by a noticeable amount.

Well, in that case I should have my springs off before the end of September!

But using the Group N bushings, they aren't stock. So while they look it, they are still illegal for a Stock class Auto-X, right? That's cheating...

 

Whitelines are poly, but I've never had any problem with poly bushings in the winter. Especially bushings from Whiteline.

Why not just use the Whiteline ones?

I really need to know if there is a difference between the LGT wagon rear springs, and the Bilstein rear springs? If I were going to order Pink springs, and the "GT-B wagon" rear springs were unavailable, but the "GT Wagon" rear springs were, would I be OK?

Picture of the hatch area?

I have the perfect spring for you!

I have one for sale too!

Two vampires walked into a bar and called for the bartender. "I'll have a glass of blood," said one.

"I'll have a glass of hot water", said the other.

????

"Tea Time" replied Vampire two and hauls out an used tampon.

 

Ban.