BAC5.2

Hmmm... true... I do want to try it out though. Maybe down the road when my kids grow up a bit.

I bet you could just get a BP Legacy that has a 3.0 in it, and swap the 3.6 with the 3.6 ECU in and it would be mostly plug-and-play.

Has anyone read the first post ?

No. Obviously not.

Why didn't you read the thread?

He's using the 5EAT.

245 45 18's fit fine with 48 offset there has been quite a few on the forum that have done it.

What wheel width?

I want, desperately, to run a 245/55/17 on STi BBS rims.

yep.

Awesome! What are you using for the mount material? Window-weld? Or are you going to fabricate a polyurethane bushing to press in?

Awesome. I'm excited to see the fitup of the engine to the transmission.

I think our waterjet can only do 1/2" holes as well. You could have had the waterjet dimple the surface at the center of the hole, then punched the hole on a mill. I was thinking about that. It adds an extra step, but it means you can bolt the transmission straight to the plate.

I wonder if there is a 1/2" -> M10 time-sert. That would be pretty awesome.

Don't blame me!

So you just used grade-8 bolts to bolt the adapter plate to the motor, did you have to clearance the transmission at all? You are using the 5EAT, right?

Is that 3/4" aluminum plate?

I want to see the adapter plate bolted to the motor!

I also want info on the LS1 LGT.

That's what I thought.

Narrow-band is only good for "is it rich or lean?" but not actual numbers.

I do know that VW's DO use wideband sensors, and that leads me to believe that they are actually concerned with actual rich/lean values for their engine calibration. Probably explains the relatively high fuel economy their vehicles are capable of. My buddy has a 1.8T Beetle that routinely gets in the 30's, and my wife's old Passat (1.8T with the 5-speed auto) got in the 27-28 range (a solid few hundred pounds heavier, and a few extra ponies than her 09 2.5i Impreza that nets around 26mpg).

Doesn't the ECU use the O2 sensor for "rich/lean", and doesn't really care about the numbers? I think there is inherent accuracy concern with a narrowband sensor, but I never really cared enough to look further into it.

Some cars use wideband O2 sensors for stock engine control. Volkswagen is one of them.

For my 12v Accessory, I plugged into the Cigarette fuse.

For my ground, I wrapped the wire around a screw on the body.

For the 12v signal for lights, I plugged into the Illumination fuse (however, it doesn't do anything).

For the 0-5v signal for the AFR (what's that?), I left it unattached to anything.

Yep, you wired the 12v ACC wrong.

You need to use the IGN2 fuse. The Cigarette fuse cuts power during cranking, and doesn't allow the pressure sensor to auto-calibrate. That's why your readings are off.

Nice, so it looks like I've got it wired up properly, but just have to enable it in the menu. Thanks for the input, and the amazing work you've done on this gauge!

 

Just tested mine out on the drive to work today (mostly stop and go). But I was able to get a peak of 20.3 psi while on the freeway, and when idling my vac was only around 2-3. Is that normal? The highest the vacuum got was around 7 or 8 and only briefly after I stepped off the gas (while boost was high).

Are you SURE you wired it correctly (to IGN2)? Those are symptoms of a faulty startup procedure.

Idling VAC should be in the -17 range, and -22 for high RPM/no throttle.

Sears charged my wife and I (then girlfriend) $60 to take her Passat from mostly green to all red on the printout. I made them give us our money back.

Worst case scenario, take the car to a Subaru dealer. The ones in MD that I know of all have laser-equipped Hunter Alignment Racks. A monkey can do a halfway decent alignment on one of those. I do my own alignments on an older Hunter rack with amazing results. All it takes is time. Find a technician who cares, and it'll get done right.

You could also check the Cali section of Nasioc for recommendations.

Does anyone have any insight as to how this setup will work on snow/ice compared to the stock xt suspension?

 

I want to improve the dry handling because it is horrid, but I will soon be doing the majority of my driving in constant rain/ice/snow. I'm concerned that switching to the spec B legacy suspension or the legacy bilstein setup will make it worse in the snow or mild offroad driving.

 

Any personal experience with these scenarios here?

I drove my extra-lowered Outback through the worst blizzard that we've seen in a decade. No problem at all.

I didnt get the car aligned quite yet.

200% of your problem, right there. Get the car aligned, then see what you think.

Averages around 23.5ish, lots-of-traffic highway and lots of slow->fast->slow backroads. This is also with a Yakima rack on the roof all the time (with fairing), and the A/C on almost all of the time.

Oddly enough, I track the computer MPG with my REAL MPG, and the two are frequently close (within 5%, the resolution of the gauge).

I've tracked every fillup since I bought the car.

Another tip - it'll be just fine, in more temperate climates as well as if there's something exerting force to hold it in-place, but if not, you'll either want to spend the extra few bucks to look for the 3M VHB-based "SuperLock" strips from RadioShack (if you prefer a "VELCRO"-type setup) or, alternatively, use the 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape. Both of these alternatives will hold up to temperatures much better than even "industrial" VELCRO, particularly if the item is "free dangling."

I zip-tied mine in place. Been fine since I started beta-testing!

all this makes me wish I put more effort in during college and actually used my engineering degree in my work today..... Having a BSME and working at a bank sucks....

wow, that's a hell of a career u-turn...