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Posts posted by BAC5.2
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Which would also explain the exhaust cloud behind the car...
Oh... I thought it was a demonstration of redshift...
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I LOL'd at the third pic.
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BIU should control HVAC.
It does as far as I know.
You could get a 2.5i with automatic climate control (in 2009 at least, the 2.5i Limited Outback had all the trimmings of the 2.5XT and 3.0R Limited, without the cool motor).
I bet you could get a 2.5i ECU to work in your "GT" without too much heartache.
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"anyone capable of getting themselves made president, should by no means be allowed to do the job"
- Douglas Adams
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"Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines."
Spotted on an old-school hot-rod forum.
The great Enzo Ferrari said that iirc.
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That's pretty funny. But what would you expect to hear from a guy who sells wheels.
Come to think of it, the wheels did seem pretty fragile even before I coated them. I had better ask Rao what he thinks.
Lol.
There's absolutely no problem powdercoating wheels.
They look sick.
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FYI I built a custom module to measure inlet and outlet temps using a micro-controller, display, and some cheap GM IAT sensors. Data is king with heat exchangers.
Ugh, one of yet another side projects I want to toss together. Build an efficiency gauge for the intercooler.
So many ideas, so little time.
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I can agree that outlet temps are all that matter, but outlet temps are directly related to inlet temps.
What matters is the delta... the true performance of a heat exchanger. These are all things I am sure you know.
They are things I know (quite well in fact). My point was simply to say that at the end of the day, outlet temps matter the most. If the aluminum TMIC has a bit more heat soak on the hot side, the outlet temps being the same or lower than the stock intercooler are proof in point the efficiency of a better designed intercooler. People get so caught up in the concept of "heatsoak", but I'm pretty sure they have no idea why.
BAC: I have designed an AWIC setup before and the results were quite good.I've been really interested in designing one, but I just don't have the time. I know the results would be awesome, and I know I could build one that would be sufficient to maintain nearly constant intake temps. I just don't have the time to devote to doing it as correctly as I want.
I might shoot you a PM about the setup you did. Maybe I'll casually design something for my own use. I have some pretty cool ideas for how I want to set it up.
I hate to join, this seems to mostly be a pissing match... I laugh reading most of it.Which is why I'm done with this thread. You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. I've put the science and the facts out there. If people STILL don't want to believe science and fact, then I suggest ice to go with the kool-aide.
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The Racer-X is perfect, if you don't mind having a front mount. It's innexpensive, high quality, easy to install, and well proven. My reason for not wanting a front mount is simple. I don't want to cut up my bumper, and I don't have a non-stock turbo.
If either of those things change, then I'll probably just get a TurboXS front mount. Or design my own AWIC.
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The design sucks.
They do the job but the heatsoak is a big issue for me. They will make more power because of the larger runners but the runners are too short to cool efficiently in relation to the runner diameter. (And that has a huge impact on cooling efficiency) The runner length is no different then the stock one but the runner volume is much greater. (if you increase one you must increase the other) The Process West WRX (Legacy fitment) is the only TMIC that had this in mind and they redesigned it based upon what could be done with the space allowed under the hood. (Instead of just copying what was already done. Tho in this case, I wouldn't mind someone copying PW to get the price down) Sure just driving at highway speeds constantly it works fine, but stop for a minute and its all downhill from there.
The runners are larger in diameter and have cooling fin density approaching stock. So volume to surface area is actually greater than stock. Toss a heat blanket onto the turbo, and wrap the down pipe, and you have a recipe for a great setup.
A heat exchanger does not have to be longer if it is more efficient.
The hot side end tank does heat soak, but all that matters is temp at outlet. If you have consistently lower temps at outlet, it doesn't matter what the other side of the intercooler is doing.
A bulletproofed stock intercooler is fine if you don't want to spend the money to upgrade. You will be more efficient with an aftermarket TMIC, though. You will make the same power at lower boost.
I will be using an aftermarket TMIC on my stage 2 setup.
Ultimately, I may design my own air-water intercooler, but I will use my IPR with confidence until that day comes (if it ever does. I am plenty busy finishing my masters degree at the moment).
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pics?
They are still in the car. I can post a pic or two when I get back to the USA. Or just Google a 2009 outback XT and you'll see the wheels I am talking about.
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WTB/WTT+Cash for 05-07 Outback LL Bean wheels. Tires or no tires, doesn't matter.
I'll sell you my 09 OBXT wheels with 10k old 225/55/17 pilot sport plus tires.
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The Perrin and AVO designs are a poor compromise and (the designs) just plain suck. (Too short runners for their size hence their crappy cooling efficiency) They are the sole reason along with the Hindenburg end tanks that have driven people to FMIC’s that may not necessarily need them (and all the hassles that come with them) at the power levels that they are running. (I’ll throw <330WHP out there for a #. Your mileage will vary)
That's not true. The people saying the Perrin and AVO intercoolers have "crappy cooling efficiency" don't know what they are talking about. Everyone who has said something to that effect has made the incorrect assumption that the new core is not internally finned.
In either case, the point of this thread is well taken; the stock “Bulletproof” TMIC is one of the best TMIC options for STAGE 2 POWER LEVELS.It's an option, but you do have higher power capacity with an aftermarket TMIC. If you just want the car to hold together and don't want to spend money, then this is a great solution. Or if you are concerned with weight, because I know that matters to some people.
On an LGT, there are well documented gains to be had from a TMIC upgrade.
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What kind of TMIC does a Z06 use?
The same one the Viper uses!
I thought you knew something about LS motors?
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A C5 Corvette Z06 will do 12.40's all day long.
A new SRT-10 Viper can do very low 11's, even 10's, all day long.
An EVO 8 (with sunroof) can pull a 12.90 if the guy is lucky.
All bone stock.
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Here we go again.
PartyRock - SeeeeYa is wrong, and he won't listen to science. Let him live in his own little world. For a reason why, I suggest investing 5 minutes into reading this: http://lifehacker.com/5811255/why-you-cant-win-an-argument-on-the-internet
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That's like the music industry claiming every download is a lost album sale.
Morons.
It is. That's why they get paid per song download now.
If I can buy just the song I want, I'm not going to buy the album for much more money.
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Has anyone done the STi BB/MC install on an 07+? Any issues?
I'm definitely going to need the larger MC for my potential brake setup.
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I've sat down, and to get an LSX into a Subaru and keep AWD, would require you to cut a big LS shaped hole in the front bumper, and have the front of the engine sit just in front of the A/C condenser.
Since LS V8's don't make good crumple zones, your options for a V8 Subaru is RWD or bust. I've seriously looked into this.
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The moment money is reversed from your paypal account you lose that money. His account will be negative until he replenishes funds, and if he doesn't he will get collection notices, and eventually court. So its not like he cheated anyone out of money, maybe for the moment, but not long term.
What if he'd already emptied the account of funds and disassociated the account from his bank and credit card?
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That guy and his shock-based style of building cars that lacks direction and a fundamental concept of how cars even work as a system... definitely has no relation to anything in this thread. Sure they're both swapping engines into a Legacy, but look past that and I'm sure I couldn't find two more drastically different approaches to modifying cars.
I think Rugger is talking about the SAAB-Viper.
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But that $80 "new" axle is not an OEM axle. I've seen a lot of problems with non-OEM axles. They just don't seem to hold up, or they are terribly assembled.
That said, rebuilding axles is one of my least favorite jobs.
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What knob is it? Just a stock one?
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I really don't think those are sufficiently structurally sound. You got hosed when you bought them, for sure. Shame, because they look fantastic on your car.
They would probably be OK to run on a 5x114 car, but on a 5x100 car, I wouldn't even consider them.
my Subaru will beat with a Buick heart!
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
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Liability, probably. Quick lube places would drain the transmission and overfill the engine. To the general public, the possibility of this happening implies a design flaw.
The older VW automatics were entirely sealed and non-serviceable. Imagine that for a PITA!