BMac1203

I trust ya. Hows the pulley change the sound? (Just wondering, had pulleys on my Civic back in the day (although very diff motor) made it more snappy but no sound diff).

Yeah, without the unequal header and the turbo, sounds like a fartcan. Lovin the idle and the "burble" What axlebacks did you pick up?

With those spacers, are the stock bolts going to have enough thread to really bite and stay for the long run? Cant judge the thickness from the pics, but you might need some longer SS bolts. Im thinking the exhaust exiting there isnt a terrible idea, also depends on if youre catless. Once youre moving youre fine, IMHO. Unfortunately this is one time when Ill take the sound over the brain cells. Wow, maybe Ive lost a few too many already...

Yup deff depends on installer. Mine came perfectly fine, then installed jazzymod, still fine. Now Ive had my car apart 10+ times for CarPC installs, and it's here now. Going to spend some time to try and get it fixed. It's funny that it seems to be VERY dependent on approx. a .10 of an inch off on any part will cause this fitment problem.

Hah sorry, didn't mean to be secretive, just no one else has expressed interest in Centrafuse here, so didn't post the info. If you want to run CF as shell, it's different than normal due to having to disable CF's warnings about driving while using your system, etc.

I placed mine on that support spoken of as well. Seems to work ok. Fishbone mentioned not placing it near metal obstructions, but if I remember correctly, it has been said that placing it on solid metal is a good thing. f1, PM me, Ill send you what you need to do to NOT run explorer at startup and run CF as system shell (not the fake way that CF has you do it)

Just curious, why do you want all that stuff? (Not being mean) Youll have no use for DVI (atleast if youre using a touchscreen). I think that's overkill for needed graphics. Im using a via chipset, and does everything better than I could have hoped for. Although its nice to be able to put in a CPU, that's more money, more heat, and prolly draws just a little more juice. It's a great board, not gonna lie, but I think it would be better suited for PVR system, not car system. A bunch of guys run 600mhz boards, and can't tell the difference between something like my 1.3ghz If you want overkill, youre good, but I just don't think its worth that money, you just wont ever need those features. My .02

My miniITX board was only $174, lol so where are you getting these outrageous prices? If your miniITX boards that you're looking at are anywhere near $250 more than an mATX, please tell us so we can point you to better prices. Also, you could put your PC in one of the side spots in the trunk like I did. That's just my mock-up, not a finished design in my pics, but you get the idea. Check my pics, if you haven't.

Well there ya go. I would have to say that that is a much larger gap than those who had mentioned trimming the stock gasket. I imagine that it sounded (or sounds) very similar to washers with a gap that large?

Agreed. I think it also depends on the sound. Some users here mentioned that by using plates (or cut gaskets) that you were eliminating sound directed up towards the cabin. Although this may be true, all you're really doing is forcing the sound out of a smaller hole, which is directing it elsewhere. I personally like the washer method, haven't tried the gasket method, maybe will just for argument's sake.

Oh agreed, we were'nt hatin', just saying that we can do more for less. I wish it would push prices down, but it won't. Reason being that the parts we use to make a CarPC are normal PC parts, nothing special (minus the PSU's and Screens). So, maybe certain parts will go down, but won't affect the cost of some of the most expensive parts. Agreed though, it's nice to have other options, I just like my OEM look

Agreed. Reason we do it custom - about 50% of those prices, if not less. And, we can do what we want with it. I can suit my needs, without voiding the thing's warranty. DIY for the win!

My problem, as we spoke on before, is that I dont have the luxury of a lit garage to keep testing. So when Im doing these multiple tests, its pitch black out in my parking lot Ill see how this goes though. So much class, dont have enough time yet to get the headlights out and back in before I have to drive again.

Agreed. Ill do this as well. LGT Dave, are you using the LGT lense holder or the RX? Either way, how many washers are you using and on what bolts?

and where do you find this said clay?

mr_luv, what'd you fill those holes with in yours? I just got my 330's from the brown truck today, last part I needed to do the full RX330 & D2S retro.

MiniSti, What did you fill this gap with? Do you have any pics that might show this gap at all? Thanks

Sounds good, like it. Why'd you choose to put the hibernate and shutdown buttons, doesnt your PSU handle that anyways?

Thanks for the quick response. You pretty much answered all of my questions. I guess Im still wondering if I should use the RX330 lens holder or not. Are there any advantage/disadvantages to either? It would just be easier, as I would not have to swap the lenses. Are you running the washer mod (& how many)? And what happens when you put on too many (say 3 instead of 2, or 4 instead of 3, etc.)? Thanks again in advance. Hopefully Im not the only dummy wondering these things....

Thanks for the heads up! Well appreciated. I'm still waiting on a final date for the sale of CF. Have you updated to CF 1.2? (I believe) Supposedly an update was released a week or two ago, but you cannot download it from Flux's site. David, on Mp3car, said that you have to have an internet connection and update CF from inside with its own integrated updater software. I dont have a wireless card/dongle in my CarPC yet, so I have yet to make the update.

Agreed about more pics of washer mod. My RX330 projectors are coming on Tuesday (the last parts for the retro), and have a few questions: 1) You say "for those doing washer mod" and then "for those doing RX330 mod" Are there different methods? What are the washers for? If you grind the nipples, the LGT shield should fit flush with the bowl. If you still need washers, could you say why and where? And did you use 2 or 3 washers? (You mentioned 2-3, but it makes a difference) 2) Seems simple enough, anything you left out that I should know? (Ive had my lights apart before, not worried about that. Just worried about getting everything right the first time) Maybe giving me a quick un-detailed 10 step list would help me put together the thoughts in my head better. As of right now, seems like: 1) Take apart stockers 2) Swap LGT lense with RX330 in the RX330 lens holder 3) Grind nipple(s) on RX330 4) Put everything back together 5) Assemble car 6) ...Done

Yup, fine piece of work it is. Now we just need to get more members here to convert!

Fair enough. That's why my CF skin is just Nav, DVD, and Music

Making a custom skin? Why not use the stock skin with the Suby logo?

I grounded at the battery as well. I remember with my car audio system in my previous car, have a ground that was extremely shorter than the +12v gave me a ground loop interference. But this is power for the PSU rather than power for an audio amp, so maybe its different. I guess Im old fashioned as well.