BMac1203

Right, but if others dont have this, I either need to A) Get a diff battery, or B) get a diff PSU. But I need to know if there is a "better" psu than my m1ATX. I got it due to the good reviews @ mp3car Any ideas?

It's just weird. Maybe I need a new battery...but mines only 4 months old...hah

That was my understanding, but mine simply shuts the comp down. Supposedly it can put the computer to sleep instead of shutdown. Will work on getting everything all better once I get my new non-dead Mobo

Sweet. Just wanted to give you a heads up so that you could get the new release. A LOT of bugs were fixed, but now theirs new ones as well; naturally. Good luck! Tell me how you like it! (As I cant since my comp is bad)

I have the m1ATX. I will play with the jumper settings and maybe try a diff setting, thanks for the idea! Thats why I brought this all up, was worrying about constant on/offs. It really is bad for comps. Should I be using a diff PSU....any of them more reliable than the other? Atleast this gave me a chance to re-route some wires and really tidy up the job. Looks top notch now.

In conclusion. Here's my question: If you switch to ACC, your computer should turn on and boot up. So if you sit in ACC it runs fine. THEN, turn the key to IGN, does the screen and computer stay running? If so, it HAS to be your PSU or your backup battery to provide the necessary voltage stabilization.

Haha guys, not sure that youre understanding me... I understand everything youre saying, that's how mine is setup as well. But the thing that mine does (which yours either doesnt do due to having a backup laptop battery or a different PSU) is turn on twice. I ran my wires EXACTLY like you. The thing is, the cig lighter sends TWO seperate pulses (signals to turn the mobo on). When at ACC, the yellow wire gets "juice" to turn on the comp. But the way our Leggy works, is that when you go from ACC -> IGN, it CUTS the power and then reapplies it. IE: Turn to ACC - > Yellow wire "hot" - > Computer Turn On Turn from ACC to IGN - > Yellow wire hot -> yellow wire cold - > yellow wire hot - > Computer Turn On It sends the signal twice, because the Cig lighter DOES NOT have constant power between ACC -> IGN, so f1, it must be your PSU or your laptop battery that keeps urs in check. On another note, turns out that my Mobo went bad, just made an RMA request And lastly f1, I meant are you using CF RC5, or the (less than week old) 1.1 release? Ive been using RC5, havent updated to 1.1 yet, but have the file on hand to do so...now I just need a working computer.

Now, Im fighting a new problem. My mobo is no longer sending video to the screen. I thought it was the screen, and after thoroughly dismantling it, un-epoxying it fromt the bezel and testing and purchasing new cables, it turns out the screen is perfectly fine. Never thought the Mobo would have problems. I now have the Carputer on my desk with an ATX PSU hooked up to it. It seems to be running fine (watching fans, listening to HD and DVD Drive) but it is posting no video. Since I cant get video, I cant get into BIOS to check things out. Any ideas? I cant remember the jumper configuration to Reset the BIOS settings...

Wow I feel dumb for not catching that. Seb, have you had any luck? Im assuming you know what I mean. When turned to Start, the car cuts all power and then repowers. I havent found something that will ONLY come on AFTER ignition. If it is on at ACC, it will send a signal to boot the CPU at that time. Once I turn to IGN, it re-sends the signal, booting the computer all over again. Not sure if that makes sense. Because all the 2nd 12v line is is a remote wire, like used on aftermarket audio amps. Same thing would happen with them (stereo on at ACC would start AMP, then when switch to IGN, AMP would turn off and on again with the radio). I havent heard of any "fix" to this yet. Not that this is a REALLY big deal, but computers dont like to be started up and shut down this often....it could hypothetically cause problems in the long run.

Hmm...I guess Ill try the Cig lighter again then.

Appreciated! Ive used both the 12v plug (Cig lighter) and the Info panel harness, and both are not constant through ignition. I dont believe that it is my battery, I'm pretty sure that upon ignition, they are cutoff and repowered. (Not the correct wording, but you get the idea).

Right, no I meant the other 12v. You have two, the constant 12v and the ACC line that sends the signal to boot the computer. Where'd you get the remote signal from?

f1, what did you tap for your +12v (not the battery) Nice setup. Is that CF 1.1 just released? I havent updated yet.

Have you guys noticed that when you start your car, your PC Starts twice? Call me crazy, but when I switch to ACC, the comp turns on. Then, when you switch on the IGN, the computer boots up again. You can confirm this just by watching the system boot up on your screen. Is there anything that gets power ONLY after ignition? Just worried that these many startups may cause trouble down the way.

Yeah, Ive seen that picture of yours before. I'll probably be doing the same or similar. I tried mounting it below the rear deck in the trunk, and it gets horrible signal.

Hmm. Yeah, I know about the OEM stuff, I guess I just didnt think it would be this behind. It's jsut SLOOOOW. Like I come to a intersection, and on my map, I get there about 10 secs later. Or I turn at a stop sign and get on a road, and on my screen Im still sitting at the stop sign. That kind of thing

I have the BU353 and iG3. I don't think I have WAAS enabled, where could I find this?

Gotcha, well I appreciate that. What Garmin software are you using? I'm looking for something that is CLOSE to OEM speed. I'm using iGuidance 3 (which most people say is the "best" GPS Software for CarPC's) and its slooooooow in updating, and is ALWAYS about 500 feet off. The turn by turn directions are too behind to be useful, I have to use the map and my eyes instead.

Beneath? Isn't GPS line-of-sight? I thought it had to be mounted where it was literally in line of sight of the satellites (theoretically speaking). Also, please post what software you are using for GPS as well, and your experiences with it.

So, where did you guys mount your GPS Sensors? Mine is mounted near the 3rd brake light, but I'm not sure how happy I am with it there. I'm running iGuidance 3, and it's real slow/very far behind reality. I know that this is normal with iG3, but I was wondering if it would be any more responsive it were mounted near the front windshield on the dash instead. It seems that OEM setups are 100% on the dot, why is aftermarket CarPC so off? Are you guys having any luck? My Mom's Audi is dead on, and updates quickly. Mine's slow as hell. Any ideas?

Seb where you located?

Guys...the hoz mod has NOTHING to do with emissions. You could take your muffler off and "pass" emissions (in theory), but fail inspection. Emissions is how many pollutants you are putting into the air, aka catalytic converter. Your mufflers do nothing for exhaust gases, ALL they do is quiet it down. So go to stage 100 if you want, you'll still pass with flying colors, EVEN if they put you on the sniffer test. The gasses coming out from the hog mod and the gasses coming out of the muffler are 100% the same.

Most Car PSU's have a hard shutdown time, a time where they will draw zero current, I'm honestly not worried.

Yup, I'm working on another one of these right now. Will be placing some sort of grill, maybe a little more stealthy.

Nice man, congrats