BMac1203

The other diff is the foreground lighting Im not a big fan of the "V" shape that the Non-AFS retro creates. The AFS retro gives you the complete wide-spread light.

MiniStiGuys' original retro and pics are of Non-ASF's. lookslikeanevo's pics are of the ASF retro. mr_luv, I believe, is the only member with FX projectors.

Hey guys. So I finally got my AFS retros in today. LOOK GREAT. Cutoff even at around 50ft+ is sharp. My biggest problem is that I can't adjust the horizontal alignment. Turning that screw (no matter how long) doesn't turn the projector. If it does anything, for some reason it also raises/lowers the light, instead of side/side. I know that it worked at one point (one of the times that I re-assembled my lights the night I finished them) But not now. Without disassembling my lights (and having to remove them from the car once again), what can I do? My light is currently concentrated to the driver's side, and even a little to the left of that. Unfortunately the output is great, but it's pointing right into the on-coming traffic lane....::thumbsdown::

Wow. So SOA could void your warranty because of malpractice of a dealer's service? Isn't there some sort of system of checks and balances? I'm not quite sure how a dealer's actions are held accountable under you... Sounds like you should get a great warranty and service tech should be fired, not the other way around...But hey, I think in reality, I don't live in it.

Thanks!

Agreed. Honestly, mine's pretty loud, but I'm used to it now and saddened. If I do go about adding additional washers (which I probably will), anyone have the bolt size? I'm looking to replace with stainless this time (meant to last time I added a washer, but didn't have the time).

Also wanted to add to this. As someone pointed out in another thread, you can use an 8" phillips screwdriver to adjust the vertical aiming as well (instead of 8mm socket/wrench). I had a difficult time getting to the horizontal aiming with the tools I have, so I decided to do a small mod. If you drill a hole (the size of the shaft of your screwdriver) directly above the horizontal aiming bolt on your housing, you can stick the screwdriver straight down and adjust that bolt the same way you can with the vertical aiming. Having the hole as the exact size of the screwdriver keeps it in place, and you can just turn the screwdriver to adjust aiming. Sorry if this is a re-post or has already been done. I just found this MUCH easier than trying to get at that bolt via a wrench or socket.

Fit is exactly the same. IIRC, the 07s have the same headlights as the 06s? They're both the same chrome, and one would assume the same projector lenses as well (meaning frosted). The only diff between the 05s and 07s should be that the 05s have black interiors and clear-beveled lenses. Other than that, I haven't spotted any differences.

It's actually against the law for them to do that. There's a law (which I can't seem to remember at this moment, but it has been talked about quite a bit on these boards) that limits the dealer from making such claims unless they can PROVE the cause of the issue. It must be directly connected to the part. Can't remember if this law is new or old. For some reason I seem to remember it being a newer thing (within the last 10 years?), but who knows. Also, I don't believe that they can cross-reference something like that. I mean, theoretically if I have a GT35R turbo setup in my car and my brakes go bad, sure. Obviously I had too much GO, and not enough STOP. Then SOA might be able to void my brake warranty. But in terms of a few washers, the worst thing they'll do is not warranty the mufflers and/or y-pipe if they rust prematurely hah. Even then, they'd have to prove that that was due to you spacing the pipes with washers. Don't worry about it. If you have to take the car in and you're worried, just remove the washers. Takes 10 mins and frees your mind of worry.

Also, side-note. I had a set of used headlights that I was doing this retro in, that were showing some extreme wear already when I got them. After getting my first retro done (non-AFS retro), I realized that they were just too beaten up to showcase my new lighting. So, I purchased a set of replica 2005 LegacyGT headlamps from TYC (through an eb@y member and/or bodyshop). Honestly, they look identical, and are DOT approved (only difference I can see is that they say "TYC" down in the front clear corner where ours say "Subaru"). I used those to do my retro, and the lenses they had as well (which were clear-beveled like the 2005's). Just a heads up for anyone interested. I paid around $301 shipped I believe for both headlights. Subaru OEM's go for $300 PER headlight (unless you purchase via a vendor here for better price). Just a thought.

Ill post pics of my retro tonight hopefully (after I get them aimed). Finally got my AFS' in. Realized that theres an EXTREMELY easy way to mount the AFS and get them all lined up. 1) I chose to use the LGT shield instead of the RX330 (I did so because after bending down the squirrel finders, I changed the optics and could never really get it to look perfect again). 2) Remove RX330 shield, lay it on-top of the LGT shield 3) Line up the output/cutoff lines between the two 4) Trace RX330 shield onto LGT shield (most importantly the two moutning positions for the screws from the RX330 shield 5) Trim the top of the LGT shield (to fit RX330 foreground limiter) and bottom (to fit the thing that protrudes from the projector). 6) Mount LGT shield to RX330 projector half 7) Mess around with spacing, optics to get a good cutoff 8) Re-assemble RX330 projector, with now mounted LGT shield 9) Mount projector in housing, aim, done! So I spent something like 15-20 hours (I'm slow and a perfectionist) on trying to get the AFS' mounted before I did this. I did both the gutter-guard method, as well as the sheet-metal method. With the sheet metal method, I traced the LGT shield, but only kept the perimeter material, clearing out the inside (to make room for the RX330 internals). This "bracket" was clamped between the RX330 projector halves when re-assembled, and gave me something to mount the RX330 setup to the housing at stock points. This wasn't perfect because my bracket was never "perfectly" aligned with the projector. After-thoughts: The LGT shield has a much steeper/drastic step in the cutoff than the RX330 did. As of right now, this doesn't bother me because the light on the 330's is so wide-spread that it doesn't make a difference. Also, I tested both 2005 and 2006 lenses in my setup. I couldn't ever get the 2006 to look sharp (as the lenses are frosted). Honestly, with some minor adjustments to the projector, a few custom spacers/brackets, and some TLC I was able to get an extremely sharp cutoff with the 2005 lenses. I'll hopefully take some pics tonight, and hopefully they'll look as good outside as they did in my APT hah.

People have been running with them since atleast about 14 months ago (when Hog created this thread?) This causes no problems, it physically can't, it's located after everything on the exhaust system that matters. Dealers are tricky, some will take them out (because it's technically an exhaust leak), and some will let them be. It in no way voids your warranty or anything of that nature though. DO IT!

How many did you do? Try just 1 washer. Or then you could try 1 on only 1 of the bolts (instead of 1 on each).

Is that a serious question? Not being mean, just hoping it's not, since you answered it yourself hah.

I had MANY conversations with MiniStiGuy about this same worry, a few months ago. My saving grace came from a thread in the HID Planet forums (which I see you're now on too) where the guys there use a Computer PSU to light the lights. I did this for the past few nights in my apt, testing washers, spacing, custom shields, etc. Deff consider it, it'll eliminate the hassle of running outside to test a washer, then running back in to add a washer, then running back out, etc. (Unless you're a bat and like to do work at night in your car with interior lights on). This worked out great for me because I don't have a garage where I can do my work at night (apartment complex), so this made it able for me to do my work/testing inside my home.

Hey guys, so I'm creating a new wire harness for my lights before I put them back in. What awg wire are you using for each length? I've read that you shouldn't go below 14awg, but then I also saw that member VXCL used 12awg for his longer lengths. Should I be using 12awg for the long lengths and 14awg for the shorter ones. What'd you guys use?

Hmmm....seb You wanna send me both sets of your new files too? If you're willing, thanks! Sorry to bother ya man, but I agree that they look better than the original.

Nice input! We'll look forward to seeing your setup.

deltabi, First, I FINALLY responded to your PM. I've been receiving them perfectly fine from you, but I've just gotten so crazy busy this week that I haven't been replying at the speed that I should. Furthermore, two things you may want to address. Power Supplies: Read-up a lot on PSU's. I had the m1-ATX psu previously, and hated it. Reason being that it could not survive the voltage loss at engine-crank. This means that when my keys went to "ACC" the computer would begin to boot, and when I turned the car to "ON/Start" the computer would cut-off and begin to boot again. It turned out that the m1-ATX does not have any fail-safes against this. The m2-ATX may, I did not personally read too much about that model. IIRC, f1anatic has a Carnetix PSU, and I personally now run the Opus PSU (which has served me great). Monitors / Screens: First (speaking non-transflective), you have the choice of a lilliput 619/629 models or the xenarc 700tsv model. I personally went with the lilliput 629 model due to the cheaper cost. You will read MANY posts on mp3car.com's forums about lilliputs breaking, but MOST of those are either the older 619 model (which IIRC has even been redesigned since those "break-age" posts). I realized that many of the users who damaged their lilliputs were EITHER not careful / did not follow walkthroughs for disassembly / or didn't know what they were doing. You will find MANY (like myself) who will tell you great stories of their "cheap" lilliputs functioning perfectly for months. Xenarc's generally have less issues to begin with, have a few nice features, but are also higher cost. The Xenarc has a native setting for auto-on when it sees a power signal. The lilliput has this too, but it is a setting locked away, a "hack" if you will. It is simple to do with a few button-clicks of the remote to set this. All in all, both monitors are pretty much the exact same to me (because bells and whistles don't impress me). One is cheaper, and one is more expensive. In terms of reliability, you just have to remember that Lilliput or Xenarc, neither monitor was meant to be disassembled and installed outside of its protective case. So if it works fine in its case, and doesn't when you disassemble it, you probably did something wrong yourself; the blame should not be put on the manufacturer for the reliability of their product (and when I say "you", I mean anyone in general). I honestly do not believe that either monitor is of higher/lesser quality, just that things happen and you're responsible if you're doing the work. I'd vote for the lilliput. Save the money, be happy. Transflective: If you've got the money to swing it, then sure. Do you use your sun-roof often? If you have it open a lot, you may want to look at these screens. Personally, again, I didn't have the money at the time (and still do not). BUT, I am not as picky as most people are. Glare doesn't bother me, these things happen (have you ever watched TV on a Plasma screen in the daytime? There's crazy glare, but people continue to buy the TV's). I ONLY need to be able to read my screen when I want to change the music playlist, read a direction via GPS (which has voice prompts for directions anyways), etc. 99% of the time, I don't need to clearly read my screen. So, if it doesn't bother you (like me), you're saving yourself around $400 by not buying this. Another thing to realize is that it's only better in the daylight. There are no pro's to having transflective at night-time. So, you're spending $400 for a screen that ONLY functions better for 50% of the day, the other time its just like the cheaper screens. (Or, you can just close your sunroof in the day if you need to see your screen; works about 80%+ of the time for me.) Conclusion: Take my comments/reccommendations with a grain of salt. These are my personal opinions, not a reflection of actual facts/truths. I tend to try to cut costs where I can, especially when the cost/benefit analysis just doesn't come out well.

That's kinda scary that the file it was flagged for was "infostealer" hah. I hope you get it working man. I installed mine, and when I had to register, I called their support and did it over the phone. Took a while, but didn't need a net connection or anything.

I'll keep a lookout

hah probably will. What color and year of your buddy's 'stang?

I live behind there in some apartments. He's probably seen my car around, I used to work at the UPS Store that's directly in that Walmart plaza.

You ever drive through Troy? (not sure why you would unless going to VT) If you're ever at Crossgates or something and see a SWP LGT, it's me hah. I'm the only one in this area I think. There's another member with a Silver LGT, keep a lookout. Did anyone ever post a vid of a Hogged 2.5i? I imagine I know what it sounds like, but still curious. Some are disgusted, and some like it.

Agreed. My drop is very noticable and very not tolerable.... I can't have the windows down and hear the music from the CarPC. I mean, I can...but not loud.