JmP6889928

Shop sounds completely incompetent to me.

Remember that AOS can accumulate water in the return line and if you're in a very cold winter climate, that condensation can freeze and not allow the block pressure to vent properly. When that happens, the block pressure has to find someplace to go and it's almost always the piston ring oil seals on the turbo and once that happens, your turbo is blown. I've seen this happen 3 times now, so you're in WI and it gets very cold there in the winter, so beware. My own opinion is first, Facebook if full of hacks that have no idea what they're talking about, and second, if you have a racecar, then you'll want one because you use it in controlled circumstance and almost always in warmer weather.

Black or dark colored cars have a harder time with A/C than white or light colored cars do too. They absorb the heat more and the A/C has to work harder to keep it cool in blazing sunlight and high temperatures. I painted the roof of my dark blue minivan white years ago, and it made a HUGE difference in how effective the A/C worked. A friend of mine in a school bus garage told me to do that and that's the reason why school bus roofs are painted white. Now I just look for white or silver minivans when it's time to buy one..LOL. That way, it's easier on the A/C.

Strangely enough, (finding wood to knock on), mine has never rattled. The monkeys at SOA will NEVER replace my airbags nor will I ever have the dash replaced, even if it becomes sticky. I told the SOA rep that he could give me the airbag and I would install it myself and return the replaced bags, and he told me "you wouldn't know how to replace them". I laughed in his face and told him that I forgot more about Subarus than he'll ever know and walked out.

Brakes, suspension, wheels.tires. After all the testing, leave the damn engine alone.

EXACTLY what GEE-OTTO said. I do not, for a minute believe that you would do this based on your description of how you take care of the car and your concerns about it. But PLEASE don't hack it back together and trade it in with the attitude that it's someone else's problem now. I think that everyone on this forum has read the "I just bought the car and it ran great until I was on my way home and the turbo grenaded and wrecked the entire engine" on many more than one occasion.

Had a Grimmspeed UP fail at the flex joint in less than 3 years and less than 10K miles and I don't drive my car in the winter. I have no faith in the Grimmspeed UP at all.

Glad you got it off. Put a wheel/tire on it without a center cap (spare works good for this too), sit on the floor so the car's weight is on it, break it loose.

Copper washers, as long as they don't have deep scars in them, are basically infinitely reusable because they're designed as malleable and to conform to the surfaces. I've reused them on calipers for as long as I can remember and never had a single leak. Did the IAG washers for banjo fitting end have a formed lip on them? I've seen some washers with a formed lip on them designed to fit inside the edge of the banjo fitting and you need them on both the top and bottom of that fitting in order to seal correctly. If not, as said above, it can cause an open path around the banjo bolt to outside for oil to flow through.

I have quickjack and it's good. The only issue is you can't go under the car from the sides-you have to go in from front or back, and that was a pain in the ass when I put the clutch in my Mustang because I wanted to take the transmission out and had to roll it out the front.

Absolutely no advantage other than aesthetics and can possibly be a detriment to oil flow and pressure inside the OE sized turbo (most all of the IHI models that come on Subaru), unless you're going with a huge turbo that might need more feed. Then, the huge turbo manufacturer will make recommendations and also include their own oil feed banjo bolt.. The stock feed line is 3/16" i.d. and feeds through an .055" single hole in the turbo oil feed banjo bolt and is designed to keep a certain amount of pressure inside on the journal bearings. I never recommend these (aftermarket oil feed lines) but a lot of people seem to think they are the way to go. Also, BNR idea of feeding from a sandwich plate under the oil filter is not a good idea either. The oil has to flow straight up from the bottom of the engine and has a very long distance to travel. If you leave your car sitting for an extended period of time, the oil drains back down the hose and at that point, once you restart, you're virtually spinning the turbo for a couple of seconds without oil. Remember that the very second you turn your key and the engine turns over, the turbo is spinning. As soon as the pistons move up and down and the valves open, it creates pressure in the exhaust that in turn, spins the turbine, and even if the car never starts, it has spun the entire time you're tuning the engine over.

I put hose clamps around them. Wife's 09 Forester had rattles and I put hose clamps around all of the heat shields-loose or not-all noises from heat shields gone.

If you purchase it and it doesn't have them, immediately put on RSB supports or you can tear the useless thin tab off the frame and then you're in trouble.

Do NOT buy headbolts. Spend the little bit extra and buy ARP head studs. Read their directions and follow them carefully and it will make sure you don't have head gasket issues in the future. OE or Victor Reinz gaskets-complete set. Have the heads decked and pressure tested. If they hold pressure, you're good to go on valves. If not, then it becomes a bit more expensive, but worth it for the piece of mind. A good shop will set the lash for you and make it easier to put them on. Replace the pilot bushing in the back of the crankshaft (rent a tool to pull it out or use grease to push it out), Clutch, TO bearing, sleeve if needed, and make sure you have everything CLEAN before taking anything apart. Pull the engine, put on a stand ($70 at Harbor Freight) and pressure wash the entire assembly (tape off the throttle body or put a cap on it and tape it) and then use a leaf blower to dry it all off completely. Also check the oil pickup tube for cracks while resealing the oil pan. While you have it apart, change the front crank seal, and check all vacuum hoses and vent hoses as those will cause you serious grief if they leak after you put it all back together and in the car. If you have another car to drive, make sure and take your time. Double check everything, torque as spec'd, and be careful not to break any bolts (Subaru has crappy quality bolts in most of the applications on the engine). If anything seems like it's going to break, it probably will so soak everything with PB or some other penetrating oil before you begin to disassemble. Clean all parts inside and out including valve covers, oil pan, and make sure there is no crap in the intake. You can do this-these engines are very simple once apart, and once finished with quality parts and your own hands, you'll be in good shape.

Search for a Cobb or Invidia DP with a cat in it. Make sure it's for an automatic, and all your troubles will go away.

I always recommend OEM lines for everything up to 20G. They fit as they're supposed to, provide plenty of oil feed (when everything is clean) as they are 3/16" and the oil banjo bolts have either an 0.55" or 0.63" orifice. To waste your money on the IAG line is not worth it. Nor do I recommend an inline filter. If you put one in, you're right back at where you started with banjo filters. Think of the turbo as the "heart" of the car, same as in your body. If the turbo stops (grenades), it infects the rest of the body (engine) and destroys everything in it's path. Keeping the heart "healthy" with oil (you have an oil filter on the engine to clean the oil) and you'll keep the rest of the engine healthy (with a good tune so no lean conditions).

Turbo looks fine. They look like that on DD because when you drive around at slow speeds as in normal DD, the pressure inside the turbo isn't high, so the piston ring seals can allow a slight bit past, which is a good thing because it keeps the piston ring seals lubricated and they need that. If you were to look at it as you see it now, and then take it out and drive it hard for a few hundred miles, it would be pretty dry then, and once you start driving around town, it would end up looking like that again. No worries with that or a bit of oil in intercooler and intake hose.

Wet your hands and feel around every joint with the car running. If there is a leak, you'll find it. My thinking is you have clogged converters to make it run so rich.

^^^That actually looks like it would work if you're very careful.

Such a pretty face and pretty eyes.

Solid advice gentlemen. That's why I ask questions here about things I don't know about. Thanks much.

OK...time for more advice from the knowledgeable folks here. Opinions on Landor Arms BPX902 12 GA. Semi-Auto?

Tolja way back when you'd love the dog.

Absolutely. You'll need a tune for sure because it's the same as the Custom VF52 as far as output and that will run you very dangerously lean if you don't. Dave at Cryotune does excellent e-tunes and has worked with a lot of my turbos, both OE and Custom Style.

I have not ordered personally. This was on one of the other forums I frequent and I can't speak for legitimacy, however, I'm sure if it was a scam, someone would have immediately blown the whistle on it. Maybe you can search them and find a phone number and order that way? There definitely is some cool stuff on there.