silverton

I know this is gonna sound crazy but..... muffler bearings. In all seriousness, the internals of the muffler are likely falling apart. had it happen on my third gen almost immediately after getting the transmission rebuilt. and I hear it all the time on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gen foresters. I don't know why the foresters so much.

If you want to get into the science of headlight aim, this article is a good read. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html too long didn't read; find a level space with a flat wall that you have 25 feet (~2 maybe 2.5 car lengths) you can back straight away from. Practically put the front bumper against the wall and mark the brightest point of each headlight beam with a piece of tape, now backup that 25 feet and adjust your headlights to their respective tape marks you put on the wall.

The 'steering gear box' (aka steering rack, steering gear, rack & pinion) is completely unrelated to your drive train where the differentials are. I dont know that an impreza rack will necessarily work in your legacy, but I do know people swap in STi racks so they all must be mostly the same as far as mounting, most likely difference is going to be the inner tie rod length for track width and how many turns lock to lock. Legacy's generally have what I'd call 'lazy' racks; so it takes more turns to go lock to lock which makes cruising on the freeway nice, STi racks have a faster ratio and would be much more 'twitchy'

I noticed this when I was an express tech at the dealer when the '20's started rolling out. many of them from the factory had the headlights pointed way too high. It was enough of them I thought it should be some sort of TSB or recall, but I was ignored.

Glad to hear it! How many miles are on your car?

might start looking at suspension bushings, specifically in the forward control arms.

In the highbeams of my third gen. third gen uses the low beam for DRL so they are never on unless I want them to be. It's my girlfriends car now.

https://www.headlightrevolution.com/9005-gtr-lighting-csps-mini-PF1.9005_2?quantity=1 I put these in the highbeams of my third gen a couple years ago, I used them as much as I could when it was my daily driver, they're god damn laser beams and I would win every high beam fight.

the modules get all sorts of wonky when the voltage gets to a certain point. try a 'cap discharge'; disconnect the negative and hold it to the positive for an arbitrary 30 seconds. when you go for the first start after the reconnection it should crank longer than you expect it to, and then let the vehicle idle with ZERO loads, no lights no hvac etc, for 20 minutes.

daniel stern is a boss

I don't recommend buying headlight bulbs with moving parts

You should replace the battery too. 11.8v resting isn't good. I do understand its had a weak alternator charging it, but that does kill the cells.

Oh yeah! the exhaust is there too, duh.. When you take the exhaust off do it at the heads and the spring bolts. you should be able to get the rearward bolt from the other side of the crossmember... just giv'er a good ole reacharound

Yes i was referring to the pitch stop. the goal of raising the motor is to gain clear access to the rearward, hidden, bolt.

Which transmission mount did you replace? the one under the back of the transmission or the one up top at the front of the transmission? I'd recommend replacing both of them along with both engine mounts especially at your mileage. Engine mounts are kind of a PITA to do in the car but if you unbolt the radiator brackets, the pitch stop, and the lower motor mount nuts then lift the drivetrain til it wont go up any more from the front diff, it's not so bad.

you're talking about the whole rear door right? that generation spanned from 93-99, just for ease of any potential headaches you should look for a 1997, but if you can't find one stay in the later years 96-99.

It is my opinion that the six cylinders are the best engine subaru ever made, there aren't many things to look out for with these. Since you're going to look at a 10 those dont have much of an undercover so you're going to want to peak underneath. The timing chain cover can seep/leak, I believe this is a telltale sign that one too many oil changes went long overdue. And the head gaskets will start to show they're failing externally around 200k miles.

all subarus look the same on the bottom, they haven't changed anything in like 30 years. this was a 15-19 outback.

I love it when people do their own tricks, they were told by another shop they needed a new steering rack. sharp eyed folk will see one of the links is not tight. I really dont think these cars enjoy being lifted, especially when they have eye sight.

I'd suspect the resistor if it only worked on full speed, which bypasses the resistor. you probably got a dead blower bud.

I implore you to pave the way, but in my experience of replacing about a dozen of these, it sucks even with the manifold off the car. I wouldn't put myself through the torture of trying to fuck that hose in place in the engine bay when it takes about 30 minutes to remove the manifold.

For some vindication, i have an 18 outback at my shop with a nasty pull to the right, even though i've got everything within .02 degrees of spec. and it's sitting on brand new OE tires.

dang, I'd have tossed all of it but the nistune ecm's... that shits like pokemon cards! probably worth way too much money. but i also know how hoarding can be

I know the guy that paved the way to put VG30's into those 510's neat cars!

I was about to do an NGK hate post because their warranty is generally 30-60 days and its just like...yall stand that hard behind your product huh? The NGK coils have a 3 year warranty, vs the denso's 1 year, so that's nice!