silverton

My major annoyance with the BP chassis is the door cards too. it's a call back to the older legacy's, but ugh... it's bad.

i like frameless windows, especially in the summer. shame your passengers every time they shut the door by the window, stops it real fast.

the larger port is easily removed with the harbor freight slide hammer kit. the other one has two flat sides. use a wrench, either of proper size or adjustable, and start working it back and forth; you only get about 1/8-1/4 turn out of it, but it eventually walks itself up with your assistance.

installation is reverse of removal, minus the slide.

i hear... frozen snow on windshield wipers, and tires driving over snow.

it's impossible to diag with a video dude.

Also ringland failure is very rare in a non turbo, I've actually never seen it in the hundreds of na engines I've worked on.

I didn't want to say it. Thanks! I find OPs situation incredibly bizarre.

FA/B engines sucked because they were pushed through R&D too quickly due to the political landscape at the time.

I plan to use my Legacy as an example of a properly cared for engine lasting. six thousand miles so far, heres to 100s more!

NA's do not have TGV's, and not sure why you're even thinking there are TGV's at play here, I reread the thread and all I got out of it was some possibly grammar issues. I think OP is saying the blocks have different sized ports on the top, not that the one has two ports on it. We need to see more of the 'new' block uncovered, the other block breather port would be visible if not for the cover.

If OP ordered a long block, it'd be pretty heckin obvious that the 'new' motor had twice as many cams as the one yarded out.

Subaru's don't have shit motors. Subaru's, and every other car, have shit owners. Not saying you are, unless you bought your car new and for sure followed the manufacturer service intervals to a T, then sure, you may call that one a shit motor.

It really rubs my fur backwards when these motors get shit on because that person never changed the oil. Offuckingcourse it's going to fail.

Subaru's are by far the easiest car to work on and incredibly easy to diagnose. Farm cars for the win!

Gialla bumper, being a JDM fitment piece, will require a full front end swap in order to fit. The bumper comes with its own attached grille already, but beyond that, you'd need a JDM hood, JDM fenders, JDM bumper beam, and JDM headlight brackets in order to make everything work. As cool as it is, I'd HEAVILY recommend against it due to how high shipping costs are worldwide right now.

 

You can find full front clips on ebay from time to time from for $1500-$2k, of questionable quality, but the biggest hurdle is the shipping of the Gialla bumper itself. The bumper itself, without any mesh or paint, is $600, but to shipping charge to the US is currently sitting around $2000. If you've got the guap burning a hole in your pocket, go for it, but know that it's not as simple as hood/grille/bumper, and even if it was, shipping costs would be prohibitively expensive.

Imagine eating another deer after you've done that.

Only the intercooler needs to be removed to gain access to the knock sensor, so unless you see any of the hoses in there leaking, I would leave them alone.

knock sensor torque is 24nm, be sure to clock it the same direction as the one you remove.

I'm not trying to be an asshole, but armchair logic doesn't really fly here on this forum! Obviously the op hasn't even pulled the timing covers off the engine let alone pulled the motor out of the car otherwise they would know exactly what motor they have and how many avcs gears they have, let alone single or dual avcs and then another person who doesn't even have an avcs car are both giving irrelevant, theoretical information on the 4th gen. Meanwhile information from people who have been in the trenches and the shit who have actually done it are being ignored? If you don't even know what engine is in ur car or have never worked on said engine and pulling reference from old technology then I would listen to the people who have been there and done that! This is why the internet is dangerous, to much information isn't necessarily a good thing. If you #ynansb and your worrying about ur cam gears, then nuff said, u shouldn't be doing this! If you need new cam gears then you need a new short block which is 2 thousand dollars. This entire approach doesn't make any sense. I would be worrying about more important things like turbo, shortblock, heads etc. not cam gears. If you need new cam gears or want to rebuild them then you probably need a new oil pump, oil cooler, etc. None of this shit makes sense! If there was no engine failure why are you even going down this path? If you just want to rebuild your motor, then reuse them and move on. If your rebuilding due to a blown motor/turbo then I could understand this nonsense. But rebuilding the cam gears are the least of your worries! Who is rebuilding the shortblock, who is rebuilding the heads? There are so many other more important things to worry about.

 

And up til this point you haven't even stated the cel you got for the cams. If its the ocv code then your barking up the wrong tree! What code are you getting???? Why do you think you need to rebuild your avcs without an engine failure? Nothing makes any sense! A motor with 210k miles needing an overhaul doesn't mean changing cam gears and timing belts, cause thats pointless. You don't even know the cel code to come to that conclusion, and if ur avcs gear was bad you would know that cause your motor would be toast. I would worry about the shortblock and heads for an overhaul, why are you so focused on your avcs gears, AVCS gears don't cause a car to overheat. Obviously you have other more important things you should be focusing on!

QFT :spin::spin:

I'm not trying to be an asshole either, but I am a certified subaru technician. jesus christ.

Just because I don't personally own one, doesn't mean I haven't worked on dozens of these engines. you're thick dude.

I'm out, yall can have your "arm chair" logic.

From SSD Performance.

 

https://ssdsubaru.blogspot.com/?m=1

Some times i hate having an older chassis, I'd love one of these on both of my third gens.

If you put an impact gun on the bolt, it comes right out.

You use no tools, but are able to impact the cam bolts out? This just can't be true, from experience. Either your cam clearances are way too tight, or you're doing it with the timing belt installed.

I'll continue to use the company23 tools, as they do work, and replace the AVCS gears on motors with bearing failure, replacing them is the proper way to do it.

Good luck replacing those screens every 3k miles, you have to untime the motor to get the ones on the left side of the engine as the rear timing cover needs to be removed, and remove the intake manifold to get the right side.

The only time you should be concerned with the performance of your AVCS system is when a code is produced.

Hope these help you.

Edit: Noticed it said p0172 after I uploaded them, so i added the page that says to refer to p0172 for diag

Get the pitch stop out of the way completely, no sense leaving it there with the hardware out. I'm sure you're stuck on the dowels though. douche them with pb blaster or equiv. use a hammer and hit the mating point where the dowels are to knock the rust loose, easier on the passenger side than the driver, but if you get one side to separate just a smidge you're home free with a prybar. If that doesn't work, sharpen your pry bar or use a sturdy screw driver and go to town on the seam.

Last resort: With the engine and transmission resting on a jack stand high enough that the motor mounts dont touch the cross member, raise it two or three pumps with your hoist, and then quickly release the pressure to drop it. I've only had to do this once, but I'm in the PNW where cars dont generally get rusty, but the weight of the engine can pull it away from the transmission enough for you to get screw driver or prybar access.