silverton

I'm not sure how you could discern that from a lip on the ring, and just oil sitting there in the gap; that picture isn't clear enough.

 

Gotta keep in mind the turbo is on the 1/3 side so that head gets a lot more heat and is more susceptible to carbon build up.

I really enjoy the fact that they reply to you, copying their own website information saying that "we only list the 2.5" but in that list is the 2008 LL bean EZ30D, and a 2010 "V6 3.6L". Instills that confidence in the product!

 

Gotta keep in mind OP seems to be in Saudi Arabia, and I'm not really sure what 'market' of Subaru's were shipped there. I did find on opposedforces a very strange looking MAF I'd not seen before when looking at google images. 22680AA360

 

Could you take a picture of your MAF and show us?

Send an oil sample to black stone. they'll let you know how much and what kind of metal is in it, if you're able to take a 'clean' sample any way. already drained oil sitting for days could have other stuff settle in to it. Aside from that, removing the oil pan and and baffle plate should give you a good idea of how much and how big the chunks are.

 

Short block

oil pickup tube can be cleaned but get a killer b

Cam gears (avcs)

oil control valves

oil control valve screens, replace or just remove, there's merit to both methods

take the plate off the backside of the OCV just to be sure

oil cooler if applicable

oil pump

heads need to be cleaned

the 4 camshaft avcs oiling holes douched

all the hard lines that feed oil to turbo/oil control valves need to be douched

aaannndddd I usually run some brake clean through the turbo til it stops coming out brown

This is not what I'm here for but I was going to compare it with oem MAF in a big tube intake to see if there is any benefit.

 

generally all these 'chip' type things do is use a resistor to skew the intake temperature reading that the ECM sees so it changes the fueling at that load point.

 

I am interested to see what kind of testing you do to find its potential gains.

" The flow bench tested design of the JET Mass Air Sensor provides airflow increases of up to 45% and installs in 10 minutes or less. "

 

A sensor absolutely can NOT increase air flow.

You're better off ordering the buckets you need. It seems daunting when looking at that chart they have, but easily solved by "Every 3 buckets = ~.001". If too tight, smaller bucket, if too loose, bigger bucket. I can help you with the 'math' if you end up doing it yourself. And you may actually find it's not out of spec. The one I'm working on right now needed zero buckets replaced, all within spec. The last one I did, 14 buckets needed to be replaced. One of the exhausts even measured .015mm when spec is .035.

 

I recommend ordering the short block for your car, you will run in to the least potential problems during reassembly.

Not to dissuade your sale, but if you're still using the OE style one, they're known to separate and fail.

engine mounts, pitch stop, or transmission mount. I'd start with the engine as it seems to be present in gear only. pitch stops generally present themselves on acceleration.

 

It's pretty annoying to replace these while the engine is in the car, all-data quotes 6 hours, for one or both. OE is 3.5x the cost of aftermarket, but the warranty/longevity is also likely 3.5x as long.

To get both heads redone is looking at around $3k. Was not expecting that.....

 

sheeeesh. what did you request to do to them?

Oh and if you are astute you will have noticed I didn't pull the radiator, correct I did not, I don't see the need unless you have way too much time on your hands and you like doing more work than necessary.

 

My only criticism here, I thought it was strange you removed the fans from the radiator but not the radiator itself. as it's a very high risk low reward situation later on. If it was an automatic, I could understand wanting to leave it, but capping the AT lines is easy enough and lose minimal fluid. I leave the fans, both hoses, and thermostat housing attached and pull it out as an assembly. lower hose with housing tucks real nice in to the fan body. pulling the thermostat out helps drain much quicker and more thoroughly.

 

Best hoist points are the factory ones if they're still there. If you have AC you definitely have the one. The compressor unbolts from the bracket easily enough once the whole assembly is loose. I use a chain with carabiners and the link offset two or three with it longer in the back, gets a perfect level lift every time.

Make sure the antenna ground is still attached between the firewall near the pitchstop, and the transmission.

If you just remove the front axles the car will not move. if it is a manual with no front axles you'll need to weld the center diff. if automatic, you need to trick the TCM in to doing 50:50 full time.

Is there a picture side by side comparison of these oil pan differences? From my experience the 255 and 257 case halves are identical castings. the difference is the crank (some times it's nitrided) and the piston crowns. the 257 has an everrrrr so slightly higher compression ratio over the 255.

 

I should clarify. they aren't always identical. some 255's only have one block breather port, 257's generally always have two.

Swap coil packs around and see if the misfire code follows the cylinder in question.

 

best way to determine if a coil is bad. resistance test is okay but not entirely all telling. the manual should show expected resistance values across the leads

1) Speak clearly at a normal tone and volume. Do not yell at it.

2) Drive the Jeep.

3) Sell it and buy another Jeep.

 

I absolutely love it when people yell or get frustrated with voice activated stuff like alexa/google home/cars... and then because it can't understand yelling or frustration, the user gets moorrreeee frustrated exacerbating the issue.

parts with zero miles can fail. I'd suspect tie rod ends, inner and outer, could be ball joint too.

 

in actuality, these cars are only "good" for 5 years 60k. since you're at 13 years and 50k, plenty of items can be at end of life.

New doesn't always mean good, I've had many new parts fail. But with the lower hose getting hot the thermostat is opening. If you're running straight water, and there is a leak somewhere, the gurgling you are hearing is likely the water boiling. Without being able to pressurize the boiling point is pretty close to the operating temperature of the motor.

 

Where are you bleeding the coolant from? The radiator itself, or the upper reservoir? You should be doing it from the upper reservoir.

 

Are you positive your vacuum tester has a good fit? Also positive that there are zero external leaks? How long does it take for the tester to drop vacuum?

Your car may not be equipped with TGV's, they would be in the romraider list if they were a supported PID. What service did they perform and what kind of technician notes were made?

 

As an aside, with 1/3 and 2/4 being close as pairs, but kind of far range for the group, I have a suspicion that 1/3 is retarded a tooth, but it wouldn't take 40k for that kind of thing to present itself as this roughness you're experiencing.

Sounds like you should trade in the touring and get a limited. subaru is always late to adopting new technologies and when they do it's not that great. people buy subarus for the awd system and the 'life style' of which ever model they buy. the sterotypes are pretty true for which ever model you own.

 

remember back in the early 2000's when they tried onstar? oh goodness.

Coolant pushing out of your funnel makes me think the thermostat isn't opening. Idle it in your driveway and wait for your fans to turn on. that indicates the thermostat should have opened and the lower radiator hose will get hot to the touch, if it stays cool the thermostat is stuck closed.

Even fail safe thermostats that are supposed to fail open, can and will fail closed. They all close at some point right? Which means they all don't open at some point. If your system holds pressure I'd be looking at the thermostat and/or the radiator cap.

That oil temp is not out of the ordinary, if you're low on oil it will get hotter than normal. If it gets to 240-260F, I'd get concerned.

Your subaru doesn't care. Rotate at will! They do need to be replaced every 8-10 years though

You absolutely should not be driving this car if you do not have your ball joint mounted. It is a tremendous safety hazard to you, your passengers, and any one around you. The wrong bump and your wheel gets stuffed in to the fender and you go for a ride you can't control. Be that at 15mph... or 60... you don't want it. That said...

 

how far the bolt going in? just want to be sure that the ball joint is seated all the way. if it's only going in a small amount and you can still see most of the bolt then the ball joint needs to go in to the knuckle more. if the bolt is going in a considerable amount and still not catching any threads, that's bad threads.

 

you might get lucky and be able to chase or retap it. Worst case you'll need to replace the knuckle.