silverton

I believe US market didn't get the 2nd gen GT models?

Don't know if 2nd gen has OBD1 scan tool connector at all but they have this feature called "self"-diagnostics. You'll have to remove the plastic housing under the steering wheel and look for two black connectors just dangling around. While ignition is off, connect these two pins and turn ignition on and count how many times check engine light is blinking. Long blink = tens and short blink = ones. e.g. 3 long blinks and 2 short blinks equals code 32 ("Oxygen sensor or circuit"). Starting the engine with these two connectors engaged will remove any errors from ECU.

good information but completely left field for the issue OP was having.

Probably Duplicolor Metalcast Yellow Anodized spray paint?

I've used this with great success painting the reflectors of my RS' fogs.

car tends to sit for months without running (i have 2 addresses)

cars dont like this, unless you can keep it inside.

Have you replaced the coil pack, or at least tested it? you say ignition control module, is that a tomato tuhmahtoe situation?

There is a reason the coolant overflow has a 'full' line. as the cooling system heats up and cools down the coolant expands and contracts. the system needs a reservoir to pull some when it needs it, and then somewhere to put it when it's done with it.

If you are ensuring your reservoir is never higher than the full line, and it is still blowing coolant out, your cooling system is getting over pressurized. Either by a faulty radiator cap, thermostat, OR...blown head gasket.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6

Something like this makes bleeding a much simpler process. Fill the bucket just over the ramp, run the car for 40 minutes or until the fans come on and then turn off, you can do that part twice if you want but just once is usually good enough. But it won't really matter how much you attempt to bleed it if air is getting in, say via the head gasket.

I believe there are test strips available at most auto parts stores that can check for combustion gases in the coolant, I'd do that and/or a leak down test, just to give myself piece of mind, or to know wtf is going on.

4. Still no better, I swapped the rear engine mount (that hangs onto the back of the centre diff) rubber as the original one looked compressed and whilst not broken I thought it might have softened and allowed more vibration. Still no good.

I'm assuming you mean the pitch stop, the one that bolts to the firewall and the top of the bellhousing on the transmission? If so, now inspect the transmission crossmember mount, you may find it's torn.

My major annoyance with the BP chassis is the door cards too. it's a call back to the older legacy's, but ugh... it's bad.

i like frameless windows, especially in the summer. shame your passengers every time they shut the door by the window, stops it real fast.

the larger port is easily removed with the harbor freight slide hammer kit. the other one has two flat sides. use a wrench, either of proper size or adjustable, and start working it back and forth; you only get about 1/8-1/4 turn out of it, but it eventually walks itself up with your assistance.

installation is reverse of removal, minus the slide.

i hear... frozen snow on windshield wipers, and tires driving over snow.

it's impossible to diag with a video dude.

Also ringland failure is very rare in a non turbo, I've actually never seen it in the hundreds of na engines I've worked on.

I didn't want to say it. Thanks! I find OPs situation incredibly bizarre.

FA/B engines sucked because they were pushed through R&D too quickly due to the political landscape at the time.

I plan to use my Legacy as an example of a properly cared for engine lasting. six thousand miles so far, heres to 100s more!

NA's do not have TGV's, and not sure why you're even thinking there are TGV's at play here, I reread the thread and all I got out of it was some possibly grammar issues. I think OP is saying the blocks have different sized ports on the top, not that the one has two ports on it. We need to see more of the 'new' block uncovered, the other block breather port would be visible if not for the cover.

If OP ordered a long block, it'd be pretty heckin obvious that the 'new' motor had twice as many cams as the one yarded out.

Subaru's don't have shit motors. Subaru's, and every other car, have shit owners. Not saying you are, unless you bought your car new and for sure followed the manufacturer service intervals to a T, then sure, you may call that one a shit motor.

It really rubs my fur backwards when these motors get shit on because that person never changed the oil. Offuckingcourse it's going to fail.

Subaru's are by far the easiest car to work on and incredibly easy to diagnose. Farm cars for the win!

Gialla bumper, being a JDM fitment piece, will require a full front end swap in order to fit. The bumper comes with its own attached grille already, but beyond that, you'd need a JDM hood, JDM fenders, JDM bumper beam, and JDM headlight brackets in order to make everything work. As cool as it is, I'd HEAVILY recommend against it due to how high shipping costs are worldwide right now.

 

You can find full front clips on ebay from time to time from for $1500-$2k, of questionable quality, but the biggest hurdle is the shipping of the Gialla bumper itself. The bumper itself, without any mesh or paint, is $600, but to shipping charge to the US is currently sitting around $2000. If you've got the guap burning a hole in your pocket, go for it, but know that it's not as simple as hood/grille/bumper, and even if it was, shipping costs would be prohibitively expensive.

Imagine eating another deer after you've done that.