silverton

where does it come from and where does it go? generally a run of OE wiring isnt naked like that.

After some thinking, it very likely is the steering rack bushings.

With that information, I would start with one step colder than stock platinum or iridium plugs, gapped at 050 and see what happens. coppers are great, but they don't last very long..especially if you're throwing a higher power coil at it.

 

If you are still having issues after that, I would put stock components back in the car, not necessarily new but known good; say from another running car. Not your old stuff.

Could be control arm bushes.

Conti DWS are by far the all around tire.

the short trims aren't as telling as the long. since your long is under 5, that's great. with a freeze frame showing negative 11, it's removing fuel at that moment so an incomplete burn seems to be what's going on.

 

the gap does seem large, but you do have an aftermarket coil pack and I don't know what they recommend for that unit, but I do know MSD's can punch! Anecdotal, but I had a full MSD ignition set up on an S12, and iirc, I ran something stupid like .060. So... I'm wondering if your voltage is dropping and the coil pack can't make that jump with your big toe on the throttle.

 

If it's easy, I'd put a factory coilpack back on it and gap the plugs to oe spec and see if that takes care of your problem. You may also just try .050 on the plugs and see if that helps.

 

What brand upstream O2 did you go with? These car's are pretty finicky with O2's and MAF/MAP sensors.

where did you purchase from? that looks really good!

The pump doesn't run continuously until the car is running. It primes when you initially cycle the key and runs for a moment or two.

 

If you had started it the transmission pump would have dumped all your fluid out the open lines, so that was smart not starting it. If you haven't put fresh gas in the car yet, that is where I would start. If you're positive you have air and spark, you need better gas.

 

Have you removed any of the spark plugs after replacing them? If not it's worth a look. what they look/smell like will tell you a story! Are they wet? are they white? what's going on in that combustion chamber??

two and a half years later is an alright time to replace the timing belt before it fails (referencing one of your first posts about the car.)

 

Engines need air, fuel, and spark to run. 45psi of fuel is plenty to start the car. Is the air intake free of debris? Is the exhaust free of debris? Are you positive you're getting spark? What do the spark plugs look like? Will it start with the MAF unplugged?

 

why were new injectors installed? Is some shop just throwing parts at it to try and fix it or is someone actually attempting to diagnose it?

Most any thing should start with a fresh battery, fresh fuel, and a fresh set of spark plugs. Sitting for a year, unless on a tender, that battery is likely bad and will need to be replaced. 12.2-12.5v is nominal voltage at rest, if it drops below 9 or 10 while cranking, get it outta here! Also makes me concerned for the fuel, depending how much was left in the tank when parked, and how sealed of a system it was... you may have goo in there.

 

How did you determine it wasn't getting fuel, I see the question mark at the end. Do you not hear the pump prime for 2-3 seconds when you cycle the key on and off?

 

You say it doesn't start, but that doesn't give us enough detail. Does it turn over with the starter but won't fire and run? Or does the engine do nothing at all when you turn the key?

A photo will not tell us if the inlet will work. You need to purchase one specifically for your car. The install of these is such a pain in the dick you don't want to get in there and find it's the wrong one, you'll have a baaaad day.

https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

recheck the compression when the motor is at operating temperature like you're supposed to.

 

with 4 being that low, it should sound like it has a dead cylinder when cranking.

I like to add one more step to a battery reset just fyi - insert key and turn the ignition to 'on', let the cluster cycle, then crank and let idle for awhile.

 

I like to do this after it's sat for an extended period too. I believe it maybe primes the fuel lines?

 

If it's sat for a really long time, you can also prime the oil by holding the accelerator pedal to the floor and cranking. The motor will not turn over if you keep the accelerator down.

 

each cycle of the key primes the pump. if the car has been sitting awhile, cycle the key 4-5 times before starting, i also wait for the cluster sweep to finish. holding the throttle to the floor will allow the motor to turn over, but not run. should take 30-45 seconds for the oil pressure light to turn off.

The batteries in these sensors are only good for a max of 10 years. You're at 12. As far as I know, there is no driver accessible button to reset tpms. a tool is required.

 

While I understand where Max is coming from, there are two sides to the coin, I want every thing in my car to function as it did when new. If there is something that doesn't function, it's a broken car.

Might be anecdotal for the thread but, I was "chasing" an intermittent airbag light in my impreza. it was missing fender liners, the car was lowered, and i had rolled the fender lips. but turned out i didn't do it well enough. one of the airbag wires got pinched and de-sheathed and would ground itself intermittently causing my light. it eventually turned on and stayed on. One day I removed the driver side fender to replace it since it was damaged, and there i found the damaged harness.

waterpump, thermostat housing, and coolant crossover tube bolts are all 6x1. they all take 12nm of torque.

Almost all subaru radiators are aluminum core with crimped plastic end tanks. they fail.

You have a 2001 GT. Not the same beast as our GT's and XT's on oil.

 

Most of us use conventional oil for break in.

 

But what do you think most all new cars come with from the factory...

 

I have a turbo GC that gets the same treatment as the LGT. I use conventional for the break in, and then give it Mobil1 after 1000-1500 miles, and then every 3 after that.

 

maybe this is why all the 4 cylinder chain motors have oil consumption, no such thing as a conventional 0w.

I've run Mobil1 5-30 for the last 10 years. No issues.

 

I've never heard of breaking a motor in on synthetic, and then switching to conventional. Isn't it the other way around?

I've installed several aftermarket turbo inlets and none of them are fun. OE just works. The OE just falls in to place once you've unbolted the TGV from the manifold.

 

There is a torque spec for that clamp; 3nm. or 2.2 freedom units. Stop tearing the rubber!

1 quart per 1000 miles is excessive and would fail subaru's oil consumption test. Ideally it's 1/3 or less per 1000 miles.

 

At 3k I checked the oil for the first time, and It was either at, or just below the low mark.

 

I guess I was a little confusing. if it's 1/3 quart or less per 1200 miles, that's normal and not what i considering consuming oil. your low reading after 3000 miles is normal, 1 quart over 3000 miles is 1/3 per thou, not excessive consumption.

 

That note is for a new car. It states you can not judge a new cars oil consumption early in its life, rings have to settle, etc. It then states if you have excessive consumption after the break in period, take the car in to the dealer. Likely for a warranty short block replacement.

OE will be the easiest.

Install must go a lot quicker when you use zip ties instead of the included clamps, I hate it when people do that. It's lazy. IAG, if you're here... the clamps included in your AOS kits are absolutely infuriating, please improve them so they're easier to use.

just the actuator part is electronic. there is still a butterfly plate that gets carbon build up. when i was a lowly express tech at the dealer we often had to clean the throttle body after disconnecting the battery or doing an ecm update, as the cars would fire right up, but die. douche a rag with throttle body cleaner, push the plate open by hand, it only goes 90 degrees before hitting its stop. wipe both sides of the plate and inner diameter of the throttle chamber. you can be more aggressive with it than you might think. when you go to restart it will crank longer than normal but it may fix your issue.

 

honestly i'd be surprised if it wasn't something they already tried to do, if it was an actual subaru dealership that is. I have found being in the independent world that these newer cars are a bit of a mystery. the diag tools available aren't as good as subarus.