silverton

I paid $109.50 for four to be cleaned and flow tested with witch hunter. And $145.75 for Dr Injector to clean and flow test a set.

FOURTY FIVE HUNNIT????

Bruh.

mechanics stethoscope.  they should all the sound the same.

Looks like your shim worked according to this chart.  Your oil pump is operating normally.  Too much pressure can be bad, just FYI.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1411649

If you now have the sport/premium speaker set up, that's likely the profile you should use.

quarter inch 10 mil on a ball swivel makes it easy to get the four on the back

2 minutes ago, yellowspirit said:

I've used Delphi control arms from Rock Auto on my 2014 335i.  They were garbage because they clunked within 5000 miles from the install.  I switched back to genuine BMW control arms since then and I've had no issues.

Well damn, I don't like the sound of that, but alright!  I bought these specifically because they came with that bushing and bracket preinstalled.  I had tried a few myself with my GC and I don't know if there was something up with the control arms I was using or what, but it would tweak the mounting point of that bushing before it even got close to spec so I gave up and bought the same arms for it, that are now on my Legacy, but the GC didn't have this clunk. Which was also lowered; on AGX's and SPT springs.

22 hours ago, yellowspirit said:

I understand.  So am I, but I had this issue and when I went to retorque the nut for the rear bushing on the front control arms, I noticed that it was a bit below the torque spec.  It wasn't much, but it did resolve some slight clunking that I had.

I bought Delphi control arms, they came with that bushing/bracket already put on so I didn't think to check it.  I will verify the torque on that nut, thank you!

9 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Have you talked with the shop that did the last alignment and let them know your hearing that noise ?

That would be me, I'm at a loss, that's why I'm here. haha.  It sounds like it would be the endlinks or the balljoints but I replaced both pair in the last 4-500 miles and there was no difference. My last hail mary was the control arms.

9 hours ago, yellowspirit said:

Try checking the torque on all bolts/nuts.

I am very adamant about torque specs on most things.  Everything was done to Subaru spec.

2001 LGT,Auto, 228k miles.

I have a clank noise coming from the front left when going over potholes, cracks, manhole covers not quite level with the road...etc, anything where the road just drops away.

New parts, all within the last 5-10000 miles. Everything. Lower control arms, ball joints, steering rack, wheel bearings, sway bar links and bushes, struts are gr2's with H&R springs, strut mounts, everything! Everything is also OE or OE equiv, no poly anywhere.

Control arms were done last; a couple days ago. The clank is mostly muted now, but still frequently enough is as loud as before.

The only thing I can think of now is something in the strut assembly, but it all looks okay.

subaru says it's an H11.  You could always do a visual check of the bulb and see what it says.  That's the easiest way when you've got a bunch of people telling you different stuff.

Due diligence will save you time and money.

A quick search after my post says H11 and H16 ALMOST interchange. H11 wont fit perfect in an H16 housing, but an H16 will fit an H11 housing.

https://headlightreviews.com/h11-vs-h16-headlight-bulbs/

If you don't have any AVCS related codes, don't touch 'em.

The dealership I worked at didn't use OE glass unless it was under warranty. I had one put in my RS at the time and it was a good windshield.  One thing you could do to avoid getting rock chips to to increase your following distance.  And when you do get a chip get it filled as soon as you can.  I see a lot of people pull in to drive ways really fast/hard.  Don't do that, it causes the chassis to twist and puts stress on the glass. 

6 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Yep, zip tie if you really feel the need.   IMO its just to keep the hose from chafing if it moves.

I think the connection at the pump could leak from the weight of the hose, when left unsupported for an extended period of time. They handled the chafing concern with the bits of soft rubber

I tried finding the hose stay that's broken, but it is part of the $54 airbox assembly. A ziptie would be sufficient.

ideally you would replace it, but likely not to cause a problem

That's the clip/spring that holds the fork to the pivot ball.  it's recommended to replace the spring and ball when you replace the clutch... some times the fork is pretty well worn too and also needs replaced.

On 7/25/2022 at 10:14 AM, WillThisFly said:

So I noticed a couple months after leasing that the Driver's side rear door is ever so slightly askew. When getting my first oil change, the service desk rep, said he only cares if there is wind noise or about the seal and said I had to take it up with the service manager. Not happy about that. In this picture the shadow along the crease accents the issue clearly. anyone else have issues like this and gotten a hard time?

Talk to someone else at your dealer, or go to a different dealer entirely.  That alignment needs to be addressed.

You don't move the throw out bearing when you depress the clutch pedal.  you're depressing the metal fingers on the clutch pressure plate to pull it away from the clutch disc.

I deal with OE and aftermarket parts all day.  the OE stuff is always better quality.  You do pay for that quality, but it will for sure last longer than the aftermarket item.

Edit: I mispoke, I was thinking the pilot bushing for some heckin reason. Long day in a hot shop

On 7/23/2022 at 8:16 AM, silverton said:

possibly the timing belt tensioner

2009.... if you change any part of your intake or exhaust system, you need a tune, even right down to an airbox/cone filter.

If it's an '11, shouldn't you have blue coolant?  It does sound like you have some sort of cooling system inefficiency going on.

You can easily test the fans by turning the AC on. They should both run.

I do gotta say, I was under a 2000 outback with 130k on it the other day and was absolutely shocked, the head gaskets were perfect with no evidence of work done. They were also in 500-1000 miles early on their 3k interval, so....  either you pay for oil, or you pay for head gaskets.

Nevermind, I was finally able to find it.  After clicking the "following" drop down in a thread, click the blue link and you can turn it all off.

10 hours ago, DrD123 said:

I always assumed the extra holes were if you needed the hood opened higher while working on the engine (often see something similar with the standard rigid strut where there is more than one spot to mount it) - can you not get the broken one out of the hood?

That is what they're for!

how do i turn this off globally? I don't see any settings related and don't want an email for replies to every thread i've posted in. it's obnoxious.