silverton

possibly the timing belt tensioner

what is flood clearing? is that where you hold the accelerator to the floor and crank it?  Are you using quality oil and filter? how many miles has it been since you changed them?

 Sounds like a missing ground to me.

sequential twin turbos, There are two of them and no where here did anyone say they spool at the same time. If you actually "hate to be the akshully guy" as you put it then you wouldn't have posted such a half assed response and supporting it with Wikipedia of all bloody places.

 

I have technical handbooks for Subaru's boxer designs and histroy and in it they state many times that the EJ20TT/EJ20H which includes the EJ206TT is a "DOHC sequential twin turbo".

You can take your bullshit elsewhere bud

 

lol sorry buddy:spin:

Is it the same kind of hot as though it were at 80 or whatever the highest setting is?

 

that's likely an issue is the flapper door stepper motor if that's the case.

 

You should definitely use the A/C in winter as it keeps the windows from fogging up. You may have noticed the ecm has logic to turn the A/C on automatically when on a windshield setting.

I did the changes at the recommended time intervals and documented it until my drivetrain warranty expired.

 

Smart!

well. the only time you're going to have the heater core completely bypassed is at the lowest temperature. anything higher than the lowest, it starts to open up to the heater core. I think we need more info though, does your car have auto climate and it's determining that at 66 degrees it turns the a/c off?

 

also, yeah, if this work was done recent, take it back. they need to fix it, for free.

I don't think there's much of a hose for that vent. usually the dash vents set inside of the hvac plumbing in the dash.

 

Is the vent open? the slider that opens and closes it could be broken.

cleaned throttle plate and performed idle re-learn.

 

other than cleaning the throttle body, that's what i told you to do

i hate to be the akshully guy, as i am a little jealous, but they aren't quite twin turbos. it's more like a bi-turbo setup. one for the low end, and one for the upper end. One is a vf25, the other is a vf27.....checking wikipedia it's still a little more convoluted than that.

 

A/B have primary VF25 for automatic transmission or VF26 for manual and secondary VF27 turbo's.

C have primary VF31 and secondary VF32 turbo's.

D have primary VF33 (46.5 / 9-blade turbine wheel and a / 6 + 6 blade compressor) and secondary VF32 (exhaust side it uses a 46.5 / 9-blade turbine wheel, teamed with a 52.5 / 10-blade compressor wheel). All secondary turbos are ball bearing and primary turbos are journal bearing.

As long as you get it up to operating temp regularly you could go a year or so. do some reading on bobistheoilguy, the one thread i looked in to had someone saying their 29 year old bmw gets its oil changed every four years.

 

if you're really curious how long your oil can go for do a six month change and send a sample to blackstone, one of their options is testing for extended use iirc, they'll let you know how often you should change the oil in YOUR engine.

you're mentioning clunking noises from the front, though you do say they disappear once the FWD fuse is in.

 

If it were my car i would replace the three things I mentioned one at a time to chase it down. Start with the transfer clutches (due to fwd fuse alleviating symptoms), then ball joints, then axles. really you should do the ball joints and axles at the same time since you need to take the ball joint out halfway anyhow to do the axle replacement.

 

Bottom line, if putting the FWD fuse in makes your car feel better while turning, the transfer clutches are definitely going bad. You are correct about the center diff being a clutch pack, it's called a transfer clutch by subaru. And it's a lot easier to replace than it looks.

Replace your front ball joints, front axles, and the transfer clutches in your center diff.

very likely the center diff is going bad

I'm flabbergasted that an actual Subaru dealership didn't have the right tool. Or.. the tech didn't know about the tool. Or the tool was lost and not replaced because that cuts in to the shop foreman's bonus. Each dealership is sent a special cabinet setup that literally contains every special tool that Subaru has in their repair manuals, but only once. It's up to the dealership to replace lost/damaged special tools.

 

Good luck buddy!

I don't recognize it.

we aren't going to be able to identify the part on a description alone. we need a picture.

loop the heater core lines to remove it from the system and see if you still over heat.

I'm confused by this situation, lack of periods and structured sentences, i realize you're on mobile but... come on..

 

sounds like you agreed to buy a car, but now the owner is saying the front diff is locked up? the front diff isn't something that's easily replaced so you're better off sourcing a whole transmission, or just walking away from the car.

Top it off and check again after a week of driving. If it's been 9 months and you still see coolant in the reservoir, it likely wasn't burped completely, and not a leak. Also if it's been 9 months, you should have had it in for service where they should top your coolant off...

Try this: Disconnect battery terminals, touch them together for 30 seconds. Idle car for 20 minutes. Profit!

Torque will read your short and long term trims no problem. It does sound like there's a bit of extra drag in your compressor, or the tensioner pulley.

gives me hope! i want a 18/19 legacy 3.6, whichever year was the last with the denso head unit

I've done it so many times and still get anxious when I turn the key. Good job!

I don't believe OP's car will have a turbo inlet.