silverton

That kinda sounds like an idler pulley bearing with the frequency and pitch, but I would certainly try Scubaboo's trick first. If you still hear a squeak after both of those tricks, take the belt off completely and start it, but not for very long! You won't have an alternator or a water pump.

Jump started my 2015 Legacy Limited ... I already took my battery to AutoZone and had it charged (battery is good and not faulty).

 

Wanted to add that already scanned it with my scanner and no error codes. Everything else works fine (eyesight, lights, stereo, etc).

 

Appreciate the thoughts. Battery tested on multimeter and comes back ~12.5ish. Battery is also less than two years old.

 

Tried all the suggestions. Battery is a Napa Legend Premium. Nothing worked. I suspect I must’ve fried something during the jump. I have a service appointment tomorrow with Subaru. Will let you guys know when I know.

 

@Sliverton,

 

The OP mentioned that his voltage was at 12.5 volts AFTER the car was on and running. I assumed this since they said they had it checked at Autozone while it was in the car and after I once assumed they drove it to said parts store. So at that point the battery at that voltage would be toast and require a replacement.

 

Not once did OP mention that the battery voltage was 12.5 after the car was started. And the way it reads, they removed the battery and took it to autozone, not took the whole car.

 

I've learned you make a lot of assumptions MoleMan, it's....frustrating.

 

IF @sylquist had mentioned that his battery was only showing 12.5 volts while running, I would have recommended an alternator and this thread would be a whole lot shorter.

The FSM calls the tool used for removing the Intake Sprocket: "Cam Sprocket Wrench" and the Exhaust Sprocket tool is called: "Camshaft Sprocket Wrench", part# 499207400. It seems they specifically wrote it this way on the FSM for a reason.

 

I wouldn't read in to that too much. cam and camshaft are analogous in the automotive world. Also, the same company that wrote what you quoted, also wrote the wiring pinouts for my 2001 impreza... and they fried my head light switch because I didn't think to double check the FSM corrections first.

the AVCS gears are not user serviceable, so there are no internal parts you can buy. You also need a special 5 point 'torx' style bit if you're really set on cleaning these. I've only had one mishap using the company 23 exhaust cam gear where the spring came unsprung.

 

https://www.iwsti.com/threads/avcs-gear-cleaning-guide-read-this-if-you-spun-a-bearing.279112/

 

If it were me, and I've done this before, if you really are concerned, buy new. It's money but it is peace of mind for how ever many dollars you've already spent on the rest of the motor, potentially half assing your AVCS gears could grenade the whole thing.

 

That being said, I would figure out why your engine is over heating before you rebuild it. You may find you do all this work and it still over heats. Done all the usual? thermostat, coolant, radiator? Just to rule it out, even if you do still have heat, bypass the heater core. I've seen that before and it blew my mind.

Connecting the positive and ground cables together is unnecessary

 

I'd say it's only necessary in electrical gremlin situations such as this one.

With the battery pulling 12.5 volts any mechanic would say replace the battery regardless if factory trained or backyard.

 

https://deepcyclebatterystore.com/how-to-maintain-batteries/

 

When checking the batteries, (at rest) use these “Voltage Landmarks”.

 

12.6 volts = 100%

12.5 volts = 70%

12.3 volts = 50%

11.4 volts = 20%

 

I have had to do this procedure hundreds of times, only on canbus cars, and most commonly on the 15+'s. And it is to fix exactly these kinds of gremlins. It has never caused NEW gremlins.

 

Much like you saying wings flex, and I know that they do, but I'm not going to be confidently incorrect about saying they shouldn't when you tell me they do. I'd google it before I went on a forum and straight up contradicted something.

 

12.5 volts is perfect for a battery at rest. If it drops below 10 while cranking, you have issues. While running It should be between 13.5'ish and 14.5'ish. +/- .3v

 

but i suppose since you can't view the dislike count any more, who knows if it's true or not.

https://www.ascentforums.com/threads/audio-completely-dead.4153/

 

crazy.

Okay. Well... I am a trained subaru mechanic so.. weird.

A few things that might be helpful:

 

1. One of the three bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block (the green one in photo #2 in post #20) is completely invisible - you can't see it from anywhere, you just have to feel for it, a few inches to the left of the other bolts in that photo.

 

The nice thing though is that it's the only other bolt in the vicinity is a 10mm timing cover bolt, so you'll find it after a few stabs, lol

 

4. You need to move (from old pump to new one) the little bracket that attaches to the pump and holds the end of the belt cover. You can move it after the new pump is installed, but it's harder. Belt cover didn't quite ft right, had to file out the opening where a rubber bushing goes a little.

 

I just did this twice, cause the first pump didn't work, I left the 10mm bolt that held that bracket loose til the end so I could fit the belt cover.

 

Also, I do not recommend CARDONE. The first pump may as well not have had any gears inside of it, and the body leaked.

I would do what the dealership calls a "cap discharge". disconnect both battery terminals and touch them together for 30-60 seconds, it really just needs 10-15 but "they say..". when you reconnect the battery, clean the throttle body and reset your window pinch protection.

where does it come from and where does it go? generally a run of OE wiring isnt naked like that.

After some thinking, it very likely is the steering rack bushings.

With that information, I would start with one step colder than stock platinum or iridium plugs, gapped at 050 and see what happens. coppers are great, but they don't last very long..especially if you're throwing a higher power coil at it.

 

If you are still having issues after that, I would put stock components back in the car, not necessarily new but known good; say from another running car. Not your old stuff.

Could be control arm bushes.

Conti DWS are by far the all around tire.

the short trims aren't as telling as the long. since your long is under 5, that's great. with a freeze frame showing negative 11, it's removing fuel at that moment so an incomplete burn seems to be what's going on.

 

the gap does seem large, but you do have an aftermarket coil pack and I don't know what they recommend for that unit, but I do know MSD's can punch! Anecdotal, but I had a full MSD ignition set up on an S12, and iirc, I ran something stupid like .060. So... I'm wondering if your voltage is dropping and the coil pack can't make that jump with your big toe on the throttle.

 

If it's easy, I'd put a factory coilpack back on it and gap the plugs to oe spec and see if that takes care of your problem. You may also just try .050 on the plugs and see if that helps.

 

What brand upstream O2 did you go with? These car's are pretty finicky with O2's and MAF/MAP sensors.

where did you purchase from? that looks really good!

The pump doesn't run continuously until the car is running. It primes when you initially cycle the key and runs for a moment or two.

 

If you had started it the transmission pump would have dumped all your fluid out the open lines, so that was smart not starting it. If you haven't put fresh gas in the car yet, that is where I would start. If you're positive you have air and spark, you need better gas.

 

Have you removed any of the spark plugs after replacing them? If not it's worth a look. what they look/smell like will tell you a story! Are they wet? are they white? what's going on in that combustion chamber??

two and a half years later is an alright time to replace the timing belt before it fails (referencing one of your first posts about the car.)

 

Engines need air, fuel, and spark to run. 45psi of fuel is plenty to start the car. Is the air intake free of debris? Is the exhaust free of debris? Are you positive you're getting spark? What do the spark plugs look like? Will it start with the MAF unplugged?

 

why were new injectors installed? Is some shop just throwing parts at it to try and fix it or is someone actually attempting to diagnose it?

Most any thing should start with a fresh battery, fresh fuel, and a fresh set of spark plugs. Sitting for a year, unless on a tender, that battery is likely bad and will need to be replaced. 12.2-12.5v is nominal voltage at rest, if it drops below 9 or 10 while cranking, get it outta here! Also makes me concerned for the fuel, depending how much was left in the tank when parked, and how sealed of a system it was... you may have goo in there.

 

How did you determine it wasn't getting fuel, I see the question mark at the end. Do you not hear the pump prime for 2-3 seconds when you cycle the key on and off?

 

You say it doesn't start, but that doesn't give us enough detail. Does it turn over with the starter but won't fire and run? Or does the engine do nothing at all when you turn the key?

A photo will not tell us if the inlet will work. You need to purchase one specifically for your car. The install of these is such a pain in the dick you don't want to get in there and find it's the wrong one, you'll have a baaaad day.

https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

recheck the compression when the motor is at operating temperature like you're supposed to.

 

with 4 being that low, it should sound like it has a dead cylinder when cranking.