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bwolterm

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  1. Sorry for the delay. I have not had a chance to do a compression test yet. I just re-adjusted the tcp and it does idle without stalling for the most part now (stalled once since the adjustment). Running some seafoam cleaner appears to have possibly been somewhat beneficial as well. I just wish I could figure out why the idle is still inconsistent/so low. It does not feel underpowered when driven. I will check back in as soon as I assess spark plugs and run a comp test. Thanks again!
  2. I took a video of the issue today. Additionally, I'll be throwing a new coolant temp sensor in as soon as it arrives! Thanks folks! 20230418_174317 (1).mp4
  3. Hey everyone! Sorry for the delay. I've been tirelessly busting my knuckles on this thing. I appreciate all of the input. I wanted to provide a quick update and see what you all think... I re-timed the engine with a new belt and tensioner. It's essentially perfect in that area now. There was maybe a 1/4 tooth discrepancy previously previously. No change. To reiterate, the engine reaches operating temperature then shortly after lopes then stalls. I have additionally replaced the crank position sensor and cam position sensor. I removed the Intercooler to inspect for cracks and that looked fine. I am planning on trying to do an ecu reset so the vehicle can relearn fuel mapping. I dunno! This is the first non-OBDII jdm I've owned, so it's tough to diagnose combined with how obscure the model is. Do you all think it could be a leak in the intake, or possibly a vacuum leak? I am still not seeing any codes, so I am leaning towards it not being a MAF issue. At this point, the issue appears to be temperature related without a doubt, so I feel safe ruling out spark and fuel. Would you all agree? The subaru world is so odd, frustrating and fun all at once. Thank you for the support! -A Subaru Novice
  4. No OBD2 yet and I did the fix with the engine in the vehicle. I am confused by this by how non-invasive I was. Timing belt removal, then a new seal was applied to the pump. It's definitely odd. I am doing all O2 sensors this week to be sure, but I will update soon.
  5. Hey everyone! So I am experiencing an issue that I am having a hard time diagnosing. My 1996 Legacy (Ej20h TT engine - MT) is stalling after about 20 minutes once the engine has warmed up. The idle is rough and the only way I can prevent the engine from dying is by giving a bit of gas. Otherwise I get the chug chug, chug chug and dead. At some points the engine almost sounds like a cammed V8 due to the rough idle and vibration is pretty aggressive. Some background: I fixed an oil leak coming from the oil pump a couple weeks ago. Prior to this, it ran very well. Once I fixed the leak, re-timed the engine and put everything back together, I cannot get it to run right. I opened it back up and redid the timing to be safe. I was extremely thorough with my measurements this time around, but no change. The vehicle runs and drives when cold without issue, but immediately takes a turn once warmed up. I do not have a CEL and am not getting any codes after plugging in the diagnostic wires under the steering column. What is the deal!? Not long before all this, I replace the following: spark plugs, coil packs, knock sensor, coolant sensor, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, TPS, O2 sensor (passenger side/left side). I cleaned out the MAF, so my next step is to clean the throttle body and look for vacuum/intake leaks. Any help is appreciate. Thanks for your time!
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