silverton

I Index. I actually want to live there. Though I would miss my 6-8 minute commute, I think it would be worth the additional hour...hour and a half. Right on the river, lets gooo

No... that one on the left is definitely steel, i use them M-F and keep them in a magnetic cup... the torque spec is 44nm. https://www.amazon.com/15pcs-Drain-Crush-Washer-Gasket/dp/B09W68JND6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=subaru+drain+plug+gasket&qid=1684018692&sr=8-3

I believe that thickness difference is going to be because one is steel, and the other aluminum? That's just my assumption, and we know how that goes!

As an aside, I fucked up the diagnosis of a failed hill holder, just like you have probably determined, as far as I could tell there was nothing wrong with and it moved like normal on the rack and my short test drive around the block didn't duplicate it, but the cable had failed internally... old as shit so the lubrication was dry and eventually the cable would get hot inside the sheath and seize the holder in the hold position. It would take quite a few actuations of the clutch pedal for it to finally cause the trouble symptom. You should have seen the color of those rotors when the customer came back... yeeeeeesh. COOKED. Wonder if I took pictures...the blue was prettttty

left front and right rear are one brake channel, right front and left rear are the other. If your vehicle has a hill holder, that is what I would suspect as it operates on the left front and right rear channel. If that's not the case, then it is the ABS pump if you have one.

Cars in the states haven't used Freon since the early 90s. All the information I can find matches what @m sprank has already stated. The size of your compressor pieces may be different than replacement parts as things get redesigned/updated and whatnot, but since that's all we can find, 20 bucks might be worth a shot to not spend 700. It's also not a factory part so they can't make a carbon copy of it, but they get close enough that it works. 88 to 105mm is just over half an inch... likely more than enough belt slack to make that up.

It's a shame I'm busy ... this is by far one of my favorite road signs. Last weekend the girlfriend and I went as far as we could on the south side of mountain loop highway. Be safe out there guys! Wait, I mean... drive fast, take chances!

With that kind of oil consumption, you should also replace your catalyst so it doesn't break the replacement motor too.

Here are pictures of my transmission label for example, yours should be in the same location just above the starter. Searching for TR690KJACA on parts.subaru.com will show you a compatibility listing, search for your transmission code to find what year range and models you can use for your replacement transmission: '

The diagnostics for AVCS related codes are to first swap the OCV solenoids side to side, intake for intake, exhaust for exhaust, if the code moves you need a new solenoid, if it doesn't you need a new sprocket. Good luck!

God damn, mans drives his 2004 Outback like it's a fuckin race car. You need an engine bud.

No, the reason it failed is due to lack of maintenance, this is partially on Subaru by saying the fluid is lifetime, spoiler.... it's not.. The fluid is good for about 70k, according to a sample of my own 60k mile factory fill CVT-HT fluid tested by Blackstone. If you live in a mountainous area then you needed to be doing cvt flushes, or at least drain and fills every 25,000 miles according to the service manual. So, much like you, and every body else that was told it was a lifetime fluid have failing transmissions. I work in a shop that regularly installs used transmissions from some subaru specialty junk yard in oregon. He will bring us junk engines and transmissions that we then have to rediagnose and fix, I honestly don't know why we still deal with them. Sorry to hear about your father, he was probably a better man than mine, I hope mine suffered all the way to his last breath. That being said, and I don't mean to sound arrogant either, but I am a Subaru Master Tech who works on these cars every day and I, or I should say we @m sprank, know what we're talking about. Your father sounds like a man who worked on vehicles when they were built to last with the original fluid for 200k miles. That's not the case any more.

oil consumption can be caused by a failed PCV valve, piston rings, or valve stem seals. does the large cloud of smoke happen after idling or sitting off for some time, like at a red light or overnight? That would be valve stem seals. if it smokes all the time, that would be piston rings. 1 quart in 100 miles is very excessive and should definitely be noticeable from the tail pipe regardless the cause It is possible the head gasket has failed internally. look up blackstone laboratories and look in to sending them an oil sample, those guys are wicked smaht, on the little paper just mention you're concerned with oil consumption, they may be able to tell you what it is.

penny wise, pound foolish. I absolutely would not put a used transmission in the car, unless it comes with a decent warranty. the cost of labor plus the part, it just doesn't make sense. You'll be in the same boat in an unknown amount of time, could be ten years... could be ten days. If you plan on getting rid of the car immediately, fuck it... do what you will and let the next person deal with it

Compatibility is incredibly important. You can't fit a square thing in to a circle hole, very generalized idea but I hope it helps. Your options are to take it to a transmission shop that is willing to repair or rebuild, take a crap shoot on a used transmission from a junkyard which very well could fail just like the one in your vehicle, or take it to Subaru and have it fixed correctly with a re-manufactured transmission with a warranty. If it were my car I'd go with the repair/rebuild option, or the dealer reman. Cars are expensive to own and maintain, it's all apart of the game!

less than 5 negative or positive is ideal on the fuel trims, upwards of 10 is okay and really nothing to worry about, 15+ is like... okay, something isn't quite right, 25 you get a check engine light. Since you say the vehicle runs fine and not producing any DTC's, it's fine so don't worry about it ya heckin hypochondriac! Ever since I got a Fitbit I've been thinking I'm probably dying, sometimes we don't need to see the data ya know?

Accurate. Not a bad day, just reality of knowing things and watching others shooting themselves in the foot repeatedly and wondering why they have a bunch of holes in their foot. True.

we need to get off the grid before we become the grid!

I hope I didn't offend, just having some fun! Is english your first language? I checked several of your other posts and they were reported as human text. I have heard that the detectors have a difficult time with non-native english writers because of how their native language formulates a sentence.

What's the diameter of the stock one?

According to this, temps up to 1050C is normal, which works out to a smidge more than 1900 in freedom units. https://www.garrettmotion.com/news/newsroom/article/turbo-tech-turbine-housings-101-garrett-performance/ If nothing else seems weird about it, and the car isn't struggling and the turbo isn't making weird noises, it's likely just the finish coating cooking off.

How many miles have you put on the new turbo? doing a turbo swap is kind of messy with the coolant and the oil, I'm wondering if it's just remnants burning off. I know you say it's worse with your eyes, and it does actually seem pretty bad on camera... have you verified the actual temperature of the turbo cartridge? or are you just going off the fact that it "smells hot"

Just to expand on that a little bit, and provide a smidge more insight possibly... did you buy the tires or did they come with the car? My theory is that they were installed, and the vehicle wasn't aligned afterwards. This caused the tires to wear abnormally, it only takes 500-1000 miles and it just exacerbates from there. With abnormally worn tires you will never get a good alignment; sure the specs are green and exactly perfect on paper, but because the tires are worn abnormally, that's what the alignment is set perfect to. Imagine the sole of your shoe is not flat, you stand funny and your weight sits differently right? Same thing with a car. This is all conjecture, but since it's a certified pre-owned I'd say whatever tech was in charge of certifying it replaced the tires, drove it and decided it didn't need an alignment, or as I've heard "good enough for who it's for". No customer to show an alignment sheet to, so no need to connect it to the machine to check and get a printout. But with all that being said, I would find it very strange that a dealership would install a Firestone brand tire.