kyle04legacy

Well the smoke finally came. And it’s bad. I’m still limping to get to motor. And I’m straight piping it. No cats will be on it

Motor it is. Headed there now

So 2nd thru 4th. Pcv valve is removed still. Thoughts? 70556175489__C268A4F7-4B51-4DA2-862C-A742EFF7349D.MOV

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And yes complete working engine for $350 at u pull. Or private party I found for $400. If my engine ends up being easy fix then put it back in or rebuild first then swap back in. The swap looks simple. I had a Jetta once upon a time and I swapped the 1.8t by myself out and I’m driving down road in under 5hrs in my gravel driveway t o boot

I do not. But i haven’t had a cel ever. Used autozone scan to see if there was any codes that wouldn’t trip cel and there wasn’t. I never stopped and put pcv back in either. After a few miles it’ stopped feeling sluggish and normal again. I haven’t stopped yet to check oil and I’m definitely curious if made any difference. I have found a ej252 (mines ej251) pulled. Runs good no leaks or overheating says the guy. Unknown mileage. He wrecked his 2000 legacy gt and had been parting out. He wants $400. But my car running no pcv valve I will admit there isn’t a burning oil smell like there was before

Might add when I was checking oil I cracked radiator cap. Released pressure and was able to remove cap even tho just drive nearly 200 miles able to remove rad cap within 3 mins of stopping

I’m pulling back iver and putting pcv valve back in. Smoking significantly worse and definitely lost power. Smoke is inconsistent still too not continuously smoking

That’s the new pcv I installed about 500 miles ago. And the old one as well. There is oil at the intake port too. Currently has no pcv and the hose stuffed in the hole and capped intake spot no difference to idle or engine sound. Was just under 2 quarts short and I went 193 miles.

I can’t not drive. I drive a lot. I’m 100 miles. Into a 400 mile drive right now. Haven’t stopped to check oil. I will when I stop for fuel in about a hour. It won’t be on the stick I know that much. When I stop I’ll investigate the pcv into intake. I’m still getting 400 miles per tank of gas. And very expensive. If I straight pipe it all the way no cats no muffler. Will it affect back pressure needed to run properly? I appreciate your insight a lot and km willimg to try just about anything. I don’t think low compression is a factor cause performance wise it gets up and goes. I did do plugs and wires recently and old plugs were in good shape still. Non were wet. Or burnt up if was running lean. It’s a serious mystery haha would it make any different to eliminate the pcv all together? I have the old one still I’ll drill it out so it’s just open run a hose to ground. Cap the intake part? I’m really not wanting to pull a loan and have a payment on something else. And a motor form you pull is $350. Totaled outback automatic but obviously ran before they wrecked it

I just filled up with gas. Went in. Paid. Started pumping. Checked oil. Obviously low. Pulled oil cap and there was smoke but very light and not much. Just enough to notice it

Coolant appears to be normal green coolant. Had had green in it since I bought car. No coolant loss or coolant level rising. Oil isn’t milky. The over flow bottle has a slight black tint on the inside. But never overheated (was 74 today) a/c cranked, 80mph down interstate. I noticed sometimes from dead stop if i do a hard take off it’s a little sluggish till 4k rpm then clears out. That’s intermittent as well doesn’t do it all the time. And everything just smells like burning oil. On a fb group someone said there has been some very rare cases about an oil return In the head that might be plugged. I’ve considered a bad cat and thought about cutting it out and straight piping it. Going to replace oil pressure switch tomorrow

I replaced the pcv valve. And no smoke at start up after cold all night doesn’t smoke consistently either. It’s randomly a huge amount comes out then goes away. I can sit and redline it and doesn’t consistently smoke. Idk how to explain it. And it’s going thru a gallon a tank of oil and nothing in ground and underneath is dry. No oil dripping from exhaust. I’m beyond confused

2004 Legacy 35th Anniversary Edition 5speed 158k miles ej251 (CORRECT ENGINE SAYS ON THE MANUFACTURER TAG) NA non turboAppears to be stock metal single layer head gasket. No leaks. No loss of coolant in 2500 miles. Not overheating. No power loss. Massive oil consumption. 1 quart in under 100 miles. Doesn’t smoke out of oil filler neck with cap off. Doesn’t smoke out exhaust consistently. Will bellow large cloud of smoke intermittently. Can’t afford to have leak down/compression test done by shop. Question is this: would bad head gasket cause my oil consumption and not over heat? Or ringland failure more likely culprit even with no loss of performance? Should I replace head gaskets and do nothing else? Replace head gaskets and valve stem seals? Or just do motor swap? Which would be a poor man’s best option. Literally can’t afford to do anything but one of these optionsYou pull has a wrecked outback that has the triple layer head gaskets. Engine is clean and no leaks. Totaled so ran before wreck. Unknown mileage. Engine is $350