Moderators BarManBean Posted June 14, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 14, 2013 Well. I just finished everything up...or so I thought. Car won't go into any gear when the engine is running, and only wants to go in 2nd/4th with the engine off. I can get it into 1st/3rd/5th, but it feels wonky. FML. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Make sure the fork didn't fall down on the pivot ball. Mine did the first time. The piston from the slave cylinder must move in a horizontal line not a downward angle. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 . That sucks. Can't help you much as I have never done that kind of job yet. Though there are lots of threads online (not necessarily Subaru related) that mention this exact same issue. I wonder if it is related to the shift linkage I was referring to a few posts earlier. Did you ever change that seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Hind sight is 20/20, I should have mentioned to test the shifted before you hook everything back up. I'll have to remember that for next time someone talks about doing a clutch job or pulling the tranny. Also make sure you tighten the bolts on that hold the shifter to the tranny. I had to do that twice after I put the tranny in back in 2011. BTW, Mine is coming out again, check my thread in the tranny forum, "3rd gear issues". 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 14, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 14, 2013 Hind sight is 20/20, I should have mentioned to test the shifted before you hook everything back up. I'll have to remember that for next time someone talks about doing a clutch job or pulling the tranny. Also make sure you tighten the bolts on that hold the shifter to the tranny. I had to do that twice after I put the tranny in back in 2011. BTW, Mine is coming out again, check my thread in the tranny forum, "3rd gear issues". We absolutely did row through the gears before putting everything back together and it was all good. The issue was really getting it into gear with the car running. We ended up re-bleeding the clutch cylinder and the problem was still there. We got to a point where we put the car in gear while it was off and then started it--sure enough, the car would move with the clutch all the way to the floor-->clutch needed adjustment. After lengthening the clutch it's shifting great! I'll let it break in and then probably shorten up the clutch a bit. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 After lengthening the clutch it's shifting great! Not sure I understand this part.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 14, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 14, 2013 Not sure I understand this part.. The clutch pedal itself is adjustable. Basically there wasn't enough travel from the pedal to disengage the clutch completely from the flywheel. I think it's a bit like putting new brake pads in--if you don't completely compress the pistons, the pads are going to drag on the rotors (or you won't be able to install the caliper at all, really). Adjusting the pedal is done under the driver's footwell up above the pedals. You have to do it upside down / backwards and it's a royal PITA, lol. Most (nearly all) do not have to adjust the pedal. I was lucky and mine needed adjustment "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 The clutch pedal itself is adjustable. Basically there wasn't enough travel from the pedal to disengage the clutch completely from the flywheel. I think it's a bit like putting new brake pads in--if you don't completely compress the pistons, the pads are going to drag on the rotors (or you won't be able to install the caliper at all, really). Adjusting the pedal is done under the driver's footwell up above the pedals. You have to do it upside down / backwards and it's a royal PITA, lol. Most (nearly all) do not have to adjust the pedal. I was lucky and mine needed adjustment Good to hear, I hate when something goes wrong and youve done everything right, but at least you learned something new:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimaira4deth Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 so i got a quick question, and hopefully you can answer since its sorta fresh in your head. flywheel bolt torque? pressure plate torque? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Yeah adjusting the clutch pedal, is really a PITA and I felt like I needed new spinal discs afterwards... would be nice if that came in a clutch pack HA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 22, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted July 22, 2013 so i got a quick question, and hopefully you can answer since its sorta fresh in your head. flywheel bolt torque? pressure plate torque? Pretty sure you figured it out, but for others I believe it's 52.8 ft/lbs for the flywheel and 11.8 ft/lbs for the pressure plate. Yeah adjusting the clutch pedal, is really a PITA and I felt like I needed new spinal discs afterwards... would be nice if that came in a clutch pack HA! Yes. It sucks. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Flywheel bolts = 72 N-m or 52.8 ft-lbs Pressure plate = 16 N-m or 11.8 ft-lbs (same for the pivot) Definitely go find the vacation pix.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 so i got a quick question, and hopefully you can answer since its sorta fresh in your head. flywheel bolt torque? pressure plate torque? http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNRZR Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 So what do you think of the new clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 23, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted July 23, 2013 Me? It's pretty good so far--still dealing with some 1st gear shudder on take off (at times it's quite significant) but it seems to be getting a bit better and I can mostly control it by taking off a bit differently (read: like a racecar ) Best part--it's not slipping like the last one. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNRZR Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thanks. I'll be needing a new clutch sooner than later and I've been looking at the FX350. My only concern is that I sit in bumper to bumper stop and go traffic for 30 min everyday on my way home. I guess I could always work closer to home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 23, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted July 23, 2013 If you actually have 30 min of stop and go I can't say I'd recommend it. Maybe just try the FX100 or something at that level, or stock and just plan to need to change it more often. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thanks. I'll be needing a new clutch sooner than later and I've been looking at the FX350. My only concern is that I sit in bumper to bumper stop and go traffic for 30 min everyday on my way home. I guess I could always work closer to home. FWIW, my Spec 2 clutch has never chattered on the 21,000 miles so far. My drive home sometimes has some stop/go traffic. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 23, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted July 23, 2013 By "chatter" do you mean decel chatter? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 No, from a stop sign in 1st gear, while your letting the clutch out. Normally happens on damp days. Some stock clutches do it, my Spec 2+ clutch did from time to time in the early day's. I would put the tranny in netural, side step the clutch pedal and then drive as normal. The next stop sign, all was fine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimaira4deth Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 No, from a stop sign in 1st gear, while your letting the clutch out. Normally happens on damp days. Some stock clutches do it, my Spec 2+ clutch did from time to time in the early day's. I would put the tranny in netural, side step the clutch pedal and then drive as normal. The next stop sign, all was fine. Just installed the spec sus25, wow what a great feeling clutch. Didn't do the singlemass swap, kept my old dual. There wasn't any discoloring or scars so I went with it. I would recommended spec clutches. 100 miles so far, great engagement, a little choppy backing up. But that's expected with a performance clutch. Installing was alot of fun.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Installing was alot of fun.. Really? Good on you then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 24, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted July 24, 2013 I enjoyed doing my own clutch. PITA for sure but I get satisfaction out of doing the job myself and learning in the process. I didn't really have to deal with having my only car down though and took almost a week to complete it. I also definitely ran into a couple hiccups, but nothing that didn't work out in the end. I see for sure why it's a $500 job and it's honestly worth every penny if you ask me. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 I enjoyed doing my own clutch. PITA for sure but I get satisfaction out of doing the job myself and learning in the process. I didn't really have to deal with having my only car down though and took almost a week to complete it. I also definitely ran into a couple hiccups, but nothing that didn't work out in the end. I see for sure why it's a $500 job and it's honestly worth every penny if you ask me. Yeah. When my timing belt tensioner failed while driving during winter, pulling a 2500 lbs trailer in the middle of nowhere in Sweden (), I had to replace my timing belt and all related components. I did it by myself with the help of my spouse and some forum members via the internet in a cold garage (25F temp not too bad I guess). We pulled it off and the engine was fine after that (i.e. no bent valves!). We were so proud of ourselves, beyond words. Amazing feeling. Anyways, back to clutch discussion . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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