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jp233

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Everything posted by jp233

  1. I finally figured it out. But there are clearly bugs in the software. Or mine is losing it's mind, along with me IRL. Bug #1: 9 times out of 10, cannot get the Calendar-> Setup button to even appear. The only way I've figured it out, it has to be the first thing you do on a clean startup (turn of the key). Otherwise, the Calendar button just comes up empty other than the 'List' button. Bug #2: Once you do get into Calendar->Setup, there are two sub-menus. One for Time and one for Date. Both have a Next button, and a Back button. The Time menu has a Reset button, but that just makes the minutes digits go to 00. You cannot actually 'save' the entries. You can press the Next button infinitely and it just cycles between Time and Date. If you press the Back button, mine will reset to 8/15/2002 every time, either instantly or after a short while by itself. Likewise, if you press a hard button on the NAV (menu, map, etc) it will also go back to 8/15/2002. The only way I think I got it to stick was to get the date set, and turn off the key. However, I kind of expect it will reset itself when it gets driven... ... next step if that happens will be a Reset Defaults, but I wanted to try to keep the nifty little maintenance reminders in there for now if I could.
  2. +1 on AllPro Subie in Alpharetta, GA (north Atlanta metro). They did a bunch of work over the years for me, including building a sweet 05 Baja Turbo for my dad. I had several issues with Subaru of Kennesaw GA over the years though. Had a new 06 LGT (not the one I have now.... strangely) that took forever to get a new rear window due to FM radio issue w/ defroster. It was pulling teeth. But they got WAY bigger since then. However, they gave me a ton of runaround on my 2012 Outback 3.6R transmission, which continued to have problems until it went out of warranty. Same with Fox Subaru in Grand Rapids, MI. No problems according to shops, except it had problems and had too much silver in the fluid for 60-70K regularly. Dumped that car, sadly. Only folks now who wrench on mine are me and there just happens to be a Subaru tech who lives up the street, with a lift in his barn.
  3. Losing my mind here. Car thinks it's August 2002. Clearly it doesn't pull the date from the sats (???), but it pulls time. Have tried all the menus it seems, I swear I did this before eons ago, but maybe that was in the menus for setting calendar reminders or something. What am I missing How do I set the date in the 2006 NAV (Kenwood) OEM system?
  4. Wow. Chances are I'll list my clean 06 LGT Limited there soon too. Just not working for carting kids around and I don't drive my truck to justify it either, so both gotta go and get a mid/large-size SUV. 12K on built STi motor (w/ forged pistons), rebuilt VF52 and heads, fresh tune, etc etc. Not enjoying it enough. Wish it were a 6MT... its an auto
  5. yes, 13-15 oz of HFC134a fridge. It says only to use Denso Oil 8 in the compressor, too
  6. Yes. And then you'd immediately be able to further diagnose/fix. Right down to the specific valve, if you get a high leak cylinder. You can do a compression test too, but it's easier to do it in the car and with the starter doing the cranking.
  7. Compression and Leakdown are two separate, but related tests. Compression tells you what specific cylinder values are, compared to the others. Since you are cranking it for compression test, you get the full stroke and valve actuation. So you get a picture of how the engine actually runs. Getting those numbers is not difficult, except on these cars where spark plug access is a pain... on other engines (such as EJ22) I could knock out a compression test in under 30 minutes. Leakdown is similar - you will have values that you have to compare against each other. But since you're keeping a pistons at/near TDC, you only get that picture there. The first thing you should do is visually inspect the head gasket mating area thoroughly. If you see any built-up crud, there's a chance it's suspect. The leakdown test will mainly tell you about rings and IN/EX valves. If it were me and all the tools were there, doing compression/leakdown sequentially on each cylinder would be the way to go (after trying to verify that the HG appears OK). But again, the compression test is so easy and quick to do (barring wrestling with spark plugs on these cars), I'd focus on that. If the HG looks like it may have a leak near one or more cylinders, and you get odd numbers for those corresponding cylinders - well you probably found it. But really for TorqueLegend ..... what is the issue with your car?
  8. yeah..... backup camera? lucky! as much as I like old school, I've gotten too used to the things.... would be sweet to pipe one into the factory Nav system but sounds like in the US the software wouldn't allow a video feed at all, eh
  9. Yeah, pulling the fuse is fine, and since it's better to be a 2-person job anyways (watching the gauge build pressure and seeing max, watching for any trends), have the person turning the key to crank it hold the throttle WFO. Also, make sure your battery is good to go for this. And take some time between cylinders, just let the starter cool down a tad...
  10. Sweet. I need to sell mine. This gives me hope. Minty, little under 119K on the clocks but only 1,900 miles on a fully rebuilt STi engine with forged CP's and such stuff, rebuilt VF52 and heads, lots of new little parts - I wanted this thing to be able to put on some go-fast parts, E85 tune and full send. But stuff happens
  11. That's exactly my situation.... I had AccessRace or whatever it was called back then (circa 2013?), but lost the disc and then the machine it was on went Kaput. Wish I could get out of another $149 for their ECU University training just to get my hands on software that I used to own, but whatever.... guess I'll take this plunge, I guess it beats starting over with an E-Tune although it would be great to do some data logging and have an E-tuner maybe ensure that it's never going to blow up like the last one did, maybe find a few ponies based on this different altitude I'm at, probably some minor differences in the fuel between here and there, etc.
  12. that looks like an EPIC clean Gen1 wagon. I have spent a lot of my adult life in a 93 or 94 wagon. I got rid of my last one about 4-5 years ago and regret it. I had two cars both go over 200k with no major engine problems, albeit one trans that I beat on hard, and another went south around 200k. These are super simple cars and don't take a lot of maintenance. Air filter. Belts. Watch your CV axle boots. Clean the throttle body butterfly valve every now and then. Spark plugs go south in the 25k range almost like clockwork. Maybe 30k. You'll notice some rougher running or worse MPG. Super easy to change out, NGK V-power is what I remember. I could do all 4 of them in 30 mins. The T-belt is very easy to change, and the EJ22 is a non-interference engine so if it skips a tooth or the belt snaps, you won't bang valves on pistons and such. A T-belt kit with water pump and tensioner is pretty cheap. Has yours ever had the t-belt changed? Those old cars were a 60k interval. In the hot south, the air vents on the dash will stick, and you go to adjust them and the individual vanes break. A little WD40 or silicone spray smells bad for a while, but works wonders. The door/window seals can go bad, and the sail panels can be fixed to get rid of wind noise. I had some very minor stuff go bad, like a knock sensor once, one ignition switch. PCV valves and fuel filter very easy to change. Normal stuff like struts, brakes. I got lucky with wheel bearings, only changed a few when doing other maintenance but they weren't busted. I put Single DIN stereo heads in all of mine, and then you can find a larger storage cubby to go underneath it - looks very nice/stock and you can add USB/aux/bluetooth quickly with just a head swap. Congrats - sweet car. If you wanna sell it by all means let me know!!! EDIT: you will find a ton of people with just these 90-94 Legacies on this forum, great way to find parts too. https://bbs.legacycentral.org/
  13. I'm trying to figure out how to delete the TGV codes. Car has a custom tune on it due to VF52 turbo, don't really want to mess with it really. Just want to get the dang idiot light off and enable back the cruise control. Now that Cobb wants you to take their $149 university course to even download the Accesstuner software, I don't know if it's worth it, and Cobb won't say whether that can even be done.
  14. Rebuilding the turbo is feasible, but yeah with 194k on the clock - send the oil off to be analyzed to make sure you're not on last legs with the rest of it. Even if you want to sell it. I had my VF52 rebuilt from Six Star Speed, this was many years ago now..... but it's only got about 2,000 miles on it.
  15. Yeah check antenna and all the wires in there behind the radio. When my radio (on a new 06 LGT) was fritzy, I could turn the FM static on and off with the rear defroster.
  16. So does the car have a tune to delete the CELs set by gutted TGVs? The TGVs apparently aid with cold start emissions. Not that it's cold this time of year, but when the car is running in open loop perhaps this is part of the issue. However, TGVs are gutted/deleted on my car too and it carries the CELs, and it runs fine. Fuel first, if spark has been verified as good which it sounds like probably Yes. O2 sensors, when running open loop after it first starts, shouldn't be able to contribute to that bad of a problem. Swapping in the other set of injectors is a good idea since they're on hand. Just mark them and associate where the misfires come and go from.
  17. Yep, it will seem good right up until it doesn't... Even getting misfire codes and such have long-been looked at when some of the time it's the first sign of an impending disaster. Just save some bucks along the way and figure on min $4,000 if you need a whole built shortblock, heads and turbo rebuilt.
  18. Nice job - wish it'd be worth it for mine, but it's not unless someone wants a project or there's a laid-out way to do it. Bigger task... I wish my 12 Outback 3.6 could get a 6MT. This trans is a dumpster fire, I hate it. The car does all the pedestrian stuff in the world I want, good in the snow and off-road, but this trans is junk and I'd rather have a stick 8 days a week.
  19. Just wish it were MT, is the first thing. I've already spent enough money on this car. If I fix the TGV codes soon it will probably be for sale. It's mint for the age and I've kept it that way. Bought from an old friend who really takes care of his stuff.... was his now-ex-wife's and she blew it up. The engine rebuild was fun, it's ready for someone to mod it out. I just really like the body style of the 05-06 LGT. If I were going to keep it, sell other vehicles, and go stupid on this thing, it'd be FMIC, non-turbo hood, remove useless spoiler, and make a nice sleeper making probably 100 more hp than it does.
  20. It's likely a ground somewhere, or yeah just a basic harness plug. I had my 12 Outback done recently, they didn't screw that one up. First 06 LGT I had when they were new, the radio was borked from the factory. the grid built into the rear window was wrong - it took a lot of work with the dealership to get them to finally replace it.
  21. My car was tuned on the stock motor, when the VF52 was installed to replace the original turbo. I don't have any printouts since it was the former owner who did that. All I have is the tune itself and the Cobb AP. Later, the piston ringland let go and destroyed the short block. Of course it may have been lean up top perhaps, I have no data, and it was done by an apparently reputable shop. But made almost exactly 103K and goodbye engine. It'd be nice to know what it's doing, but I'm sure I won't be impressed considering it's still stock intake/exhaust. But the shortblock is built with STi everything basically, and forged CP pistons. I just need to fix a few minor things and move on from this car. It's in such perfect shape but it's an Auto trans (boo). Wonder if there's an AWD dyno event somewhere around here where I could get a quick run at it. I bet the curve would suck down low, it's a dog, might be the TGV stuff. But it sings up top pretty good for what it is. For the OP...... enjoy it while you can. But if you stomp it a lot even if it's not driven a lot, depending on how many miles it already has..... it could let go near redline in fantastic form like this one did apparently. Then kaboom. Luckily, on this one the turbo and heads were salvageable/rebuildable. It's always better (I guess?) if there isn't enough run time to circulate trash through the oil enough to destroy cams and the stuff
  22. really cool. I have a set of 205/75/15's ready for a 96-99 OB or for a 1st Gen Forester, once I get some other projects done - and certainly if I move up north, I'll be lifting something or other.
  23. Could be my house if we decide to move either out of town, or closer to in town... My DD Gen1 is now tarnished, I backed into my own truck in my own driveway and now the rear quarter is really smashed, so angry.... oh well it's a 20 year old car with 200,000 miles on it. I need to take a staycation and finish my 06 LGT project
  24. I found using a hole-saw the easiest to remove AVCS cam bolts... drill em off and replace them. RWD would be fun as hell, who cares if you're last through twisties when you get to light up rear tires exiting some turns I still yearn for a 4th gen 2.5i to get turned into a V8 RWD swap
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