Moderators BarManBean Posted May 29, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 29, 2013 Similar to what I did when I went stage 2 / installed a bunch of other crap, I figure I'll start this thread for my clutch questions. Car is an '05 OBXT, parts being installed are WRX SMFW, TSK3 kit, and FX350 clutch kit. Tools I need to get: Transmission jack (any locals have one I can borrow?)T50+ bit5-in-1 tool Parts/etc I need to get: Crush washer(s) for transmission drain boltMoly greaseExtra S (4-5 qts)Sprinkler system T-coupling to seat any axle seals / rear sealNew prop shaft seals?New pilot bearing (if the FX350 kit doesn't come with one) Questions: What seals should I replace while I'm doing this job? So far I've come across the rear main seal and I guess both prop/drive shaft seals since I'll be removing it...?Will I need to adjust any thing like the clutch take-up when I change things out? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 IMO you should not have to adjust the clutch pedal. If you need to, something isn't right. In a old linkage type clutch, yes you'd need to adjust the pedal. You should not need Prop shaft seals or axle seals. The rear main should be fine unless your having issues with the current one leaking. The Clutch kit should come with a pilot bearing and "alignment tool". Moly grease, is that the same as anti-sieze compound ? You'll want to use a high temp wheel bearing grease on the starter shaft, inside the pilot bearing, and on the tranny snout for the TOB to slide. Do you have a 23mm(?) socket to hold the crank pulley while you break the FW bolts ? Or are you going to use a 1/2" impact ? OH yea, what about PB Blaster ? Do you have a can ? If you need to replace the seals and nice small block of a 2x4 works well to get them flush. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Do you have a 23mm(?) socket to hold the crank pulley while you break the FW bolts ? ^ 22 mm . While you're in there, I'd check the conditions of the shifter linkage where it enters the trans. It is known to leak. As a matter of fact, mine is leaking as we speak . But it's apparently a pain in the butt to change. Hopefully, yours does not leak. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=120526&d=1340139151 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06legsleeper Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 get yourself hard plastic wedges .. i used these to get the trans seperated from the block worked great .. and a long pry bar ...once you get a spot the trans seperated from the motor.. up top i just used the wedges to get her apart . worked like a charm used the bar to get inbetween the trans and the motor... prying with the bar on the sub frame and trans... from under the car with the trans on the trans jack , then she walked right out off the lower studs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 30, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted May 30, 2013 The Clutch kit should come with a pilot bearing and "alignment tool". I opened the box up yesterday to take a look at it--not sure the pilot bearing was there, but I didn't really look for it, will check tonight. Moly grease, is that the same as anti-sieze compound ? I believe it's different You'll want to use a high temp wheel bearing grease on the starter shaft, inside the pilot bearing, and on the tranny snout for the TOB to slide. Sounds good Do you have a 23mm(?) socket to hold the crank pulley while you break the FW bolts ? Or are you going to use a 1/2" impact ? OH yea, what about PB Blaster ? Do you have a can ? I have PB Blaster / Kroil and will use it. If I can fit a 1/2" impact in there and that's ok to use I guess I'll give that a shot. I also have a 3/8" gun and 3/8"&1/4" impact ratchets, but I'm not sure those will have enough "umph". I have a 22/23mm socket if needed. If you need to replace the seals and nice small block of a 2x4 works well to get them flush. ^ 22 mm . While you're in there, I'd check the conditions of the shifter linkage where it enters the trans. It is known to leak. As a matter of fact, mine is leaking as we speak . But it's apparently a pain in the butt to change. Hopefully, yours does not leak. Are you saying to check the linkage itself or check the seal where it enters the transmission? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Are you saying to check the linkage itself or check the seal where it enters the transmission? Check the seal. sorry for the confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 30, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted May 30, 2013 Check the seal. sorry for the confusion. Got it, will do! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 9, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 9, 2013 I'm nearly through the first of scruit's videos, but I've hit a snag. I cannot get the bottom-passenger-side nut off that holds the transmission to the engine. There's not a single tool that I can fit in there that gives me any leverage and the thing is on there gorilla-tight. I thought I had the impact on it at one point but apparently I didn't because the nut started to round off. At this point I don't really know what to do other than pull the passenger side axle to get a straight shot at it with the impact. Anyone wanna give me the crash course on pulling an axle? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I'm nearly through the first of scruit's videos, but I've hit a snag. I cannot get the bottom-passenger-side nut off that holds the transmission to the engine. There's not a single tool that I can fit in there that gives me any leverage and the thing is on there gorilla-tight. I thought I had the impact on it at one point but apparently I didn't because the nut started to round off. At this point I don't really know what to do other than pull the passenger side axle to get a straight shot at it with the impact. Anyone wanna give me the crash course on pulling an axle? Here you go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-change-axlei-heres-204454.html?t=204454&highlight=change+axle Read it first and it'll save you a TON of work. You do not need to remove the strut the knuckle or the top mount. Simply split the ball joint at the LCA, remove your end link, and follow the rest of the instructions. Hope this helps. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I'm nearly through the first of scruit's videos, but I've hit a snag. I cannot get the bottom-passenger-side nut off that holds the transmission to the engine. There's not a single tool that I can fit in there that gives me any leverage and the thing is on there gorilla-tight. I thought I had the impact on it at one point but apparently I didn't because the nut started to round off. At this point I don't really know what to do other than pull the passenger side axle to get a straight shot at it with the impact. Anyone wanna give me the crash course on pulling an axle? Right angle cut off wheel carbide bit to cut the nut off here,here, rotary file, these things are great, used them to cut a axle nut a civic once. Sorry can't believe your asking about removing a axle, you've been here for a long time, I figured you knew how. They are pretty simple if you have the tools. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 10, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 10, 2013 Right angle cut off wheel carbide bit to cut the nut off here,here, rotary file, these things are great, used them to cut a axle nut a civic once. Sorry can't believe your asking about removing a axle, you've been here for a long time, I figured you knew how. They are pretty simple if you have the tools. Yeah, yeah. At the end of the day I only really know how to do the stuff I've done before. I'm the first to admit that without the knowledge base and walkthroughs that exist on this site I would be lost. That said, I'm glad I just decided to sleep on it last night rather than getting frustrated and doing something completely stupid last night. I woke up this morning and pretty much knew what I needed to do, just had to wait until no to actually do it. There is no room for a full 1/2" impact setup (extension with a universal joint and the socket). What I didn't think to do last night was to reduce the size of everything down to 3/8"--while not the best solution all the time, especially with a powerful 1/2" impact gun, it was just the trick. I was able to get the socket completely seated with the smaller universal joint and I just zipped it off. Should hopefully make some more progress tonight. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 So you've learned that it's better to sleep on it then try something stupid. That's one of lives lesson's we all learn over time. Seems to work well too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 11, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 11, 2013 This may seem like a silly question, but I just don't want to break anything... What is the best way to turn the flywheel / clutch / pressure plate assembly to remove all the necessary bolts? Just turn it by hand or can I kind of jam a screw driver in there to help turn it? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 A breaker bar on the crank works best when i did them. I'm pulling my motor to do my clutch this weekend. (changing other parts as well) Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yep, socket on the crank pulley. Try to only rotate the engine in the correct direction. Which I believe is the tightening direction. Can you 1/2" impact gun fit up in there to break the 8 FW bolts loose ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 11, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yep, socket on the crank pulley. Try to only rotate the engine in the correct direction. Which I believe is the tightening direction. Can you 1/2" impact gun fit up in there to break the 8 FW bolts loose ? Cool. No, I don't think there's any chance of fitting the impact gun in there. I have some impact ratchets that I'll try at first, but I never have high hopes for those things. Breaker bar on the crank pulley and a ratchet with a cheater pipe should break everything loose I'm sure. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Cool. No, I don't think there's any chance of fitting the impact gun in there. I have some impact ratchets that I'll try at first, but I never have high hopes for those things. Breaker bar on the crank pulley and a ratchet with a cheater pipe should break everything loose I'm sure. I wonder if the $22.00 3/8" butter fly impact gun would break them loose. I should have tried mine when the engine was out. I bought it from Big Lots or Lot's and More type stores. It has 70ftlbs of torque. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 11, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 11, 2013 I wonder if the $22.00 3/8" butter fly impact gun would break them loose. I should have tried mine when the engine was out. I bought it from Big Lots or Lot's and More type stores. It has 70ftlbs of torque. Maybe. Air ratchets probably max out around 50 ft/lbs on a good day. The set of used tools I bought recently came with a 1/4" drive impact ratchet, no idea what the point of that even is, but someday it'll probably be useful as hell, lol--maybe tonight! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Good Luck. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 12, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 12, 2013 Just pulled my throwout bearing off and it's covered with find feathery dust/metal. Is this normal? I imagine it's remnants of 70k miles of stray friction material, but not really sure. I plan to clean out the bell housing area really well with brake cleaner--any objections? http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/DSC_0016_zps199efec3.jpg http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/DSC_0017_zps3b8fac68.jpg http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/DSC_0019_zps9d5b46e0.jpg "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 ^Mine looked the same way @ 63K. I would believe brake cleaner to be OK. I'd confirm with m sprank though as he is used to install TSK3 kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 That's not important. Worry about cleaning and greasing the shaft the TOB slides on. That dust in the housing is not going to effect anything. If you have the time and want to waste your time, go ahead, But I'm sure you can find more important things to do. Like clean the battery terminals and grounds. Inpsect other things like heater hoses, etc Think about what is a PITA to replace with the tranny in the car. Did you get new lock washers for the rear U joint? May be new bolts too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 12, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 12, 2013 That's not important. Worry about cleaning and greasing the shaft the TOB slides on. That dust in the housing is not going to effect anything. If you have the time and want to waste your time, go ahead, But I'm sure you can find more important things to do. Like clean the battery terminals and grounds. Inpsect other things like heater hoses, etc Think about what is a PITA to replace with the tranny in the car. Did you get new lock washers for the rear U joint? May be new bolts too. Byron--I just gave everything a good once over with the rag, not trying to polish the inside of the housing, lol. I did spend some extra time cleaning the shaft that the TOB slides on because I installed a TSK3 kit. Instructions called for thorough cleaning, followed by sanding / scotchbrite (I used scotchbrite) and then another cleaning. I did all that, installed the sleeve, greased everything correctly, and reinstalled the TOB / clutch fork. Cleaning behind the clutch fork was a great idea, IMO. Lots of grime back there including on the pivot ball. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Good job, and by the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 12, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted June 12, 2013 Good job, and by the way Thanks. With only one person it's hard to take pics. I don't usually where gloves and this has been a pretty dirty job. Beyond that, scruit's video is amazing already, lol "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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