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My Legacy Rebuild...


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Got a timeout error when I was trying to flash a emissions ready file. Happened to me back when I went stage 2 and tactrix recovered it but this time I had to get the circuit working myself.

 

Now I have a magical P0245 code that only started since putting the ecu back in. I'm hoping it has nothing to do with the recovery and is just coincidental but we'll see. I've got 14v at the solenoid plug when running so that's a good sign that it may just be the solenoid itself.

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Something is amiss with this ECU... Not sure if its from me attempting a recovery so many times and failing or something else but sensors are not reading properly and the thing is pig rich at startup... To the point of smelling fuel and it misfiring its so rich.

 

Gotta find a local shop that can pair my spare ECU with my immobilizer system so I can eliminate that ECU from the equation otherwise I'm just going to be chasing sensors which all worked prior to this ecu screwing up a write, so I feel it's a dead end.

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Finally got somewhere, Valenti subaru in westerly RI. Slapped in the spare JY ecu I had towed it there with my father in laws trailer and it took them all of 5min to reprogram the immobilizer for my keys. They only charged me $23 too which was cool.

 

Tech was nice and asked about the car, he also said that this dealership will try to help those who do modify as much as possible; with the exception of warranty claims when it is modded, but stuff like this they don't mind doing and thats good, otherwise people wouldn't buy subarus, and he's right you just gotta find a decent place that will work with you and I think I finally found that.

 

With how he programmed the keys I was hoping that the old ecu would still be paired because if that was the case I was going to get another JY ecu and have it setup so it would be a direct spare plug and play but unfortunately I plugged in the original ecu and the security light will stay illuminated after turning the key on so something in the immobilizer is looking for a specific ECU and Key combination. At least I know the most expensive part of fixing a bad ecu is getting one on ebay and towing it there the key programming is the cheap part.

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Has been your sharing of the rebuild in pictures and words.

 

I am somewhat puzzled by your implying that a majority of buyers will buy the brand simply because of the plethora of modifications and the availability of second market upgrades.This is beyond any doubt however I've read somewhere on site that Subaru is in fact close to losing its status as a niche car maker and is in danger of becoming one of the regulars.

 

Their marketing genius in targeting soccer moms,rurals in need of all wheel drive and their innate uniqueness may soon be overshadowed by big car company policies.

 

I had three toyotas prior to my forrester and will not say a word against them since I was then concerned with reliability above all else.It was just time for a change,and so entered Subaru.

 

Am I misreading this or are they valid points to be considered.

 

P.S. I believe down the road some of knowledge gleaned will come in handy.

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So why didn't the tech. program the key's to work with your ECU ?

 

Sorry, I didn't realize there are different model's of ECU's that will work.

 

You said he plugged in a JY ECU, what model does our cars come with ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 3 weeks later...

I guess I should update this with my final feelings on this clutch saga I'm having...

 

as noted on the page prior I installed this clutch to the T regarding everything and it's still a bear to drive. I bought this under the assumption it would have a bit better holding capacity but still engage smoothly like a factory clutch, which is what anyone would like with a DD vehicle. The combination of the rough engagement and the rock crushing sound that I get in decel that I'm to the point of ripping it out and just putting my OEM one back in that had 50k on it.

 

I contacted Clutchmasters about my issues in the beginning... I let it go for about 3k since it needed to be broken in, but since it continued to be bad I got in touch with the shop manager there. To my surprise they did rebuild the clutch and send it back, now two things changed on it, they fully re-did the fiber and they changed the engagement point of the clutch on the pressure plate. Now I did feel the engagement point change but the fiber relining did nothing and the clutch still grabs very in consistent and will shake violently unless you dump it quickly or rev it higher and slip it a lot... The second option will always result in clutch smell.

 

Now onto the god awful noise it makes... When your driving along it sounds fine, but when you coast it sounds like there are marbles in my transmission... No I just had it apart and all the bearings are fine so I know thats not the issue. Plus I never had this sound before this clutch. I also swapped back to the stock trans mount thinking the Group N one was just relaying more of the noise back through the body... nope not it and just made the engagement shake even worse.

 

Here are two videos that hopefully you can hear the sound in... It sounds quite in the vid but I kid you not you can hear it over the radio. Now remember this is a STOCK flywheel so nothing is changed there, I know some say with the aftermarket aluminum ones you get some noise.

 

This vid probably illustrates the noise the best since I go from slight throttle to full coast.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/th_20131024_163819_zps838a0e56.jpg

 

Here is another you can hear it get louder as you slow down a bit in speed.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/th_20131025_161506_zpsb6d0b2bb.jpg

 

Now the big issue is Clutchmasters told me to keep in touch with them and update them on how it feels 500 miles after I did this last install... I'm now up to 1500 miles and I've been waiting 2 weeks for a reply to my 500 mile update to him.... Which I also resent at the beginning of last week. Honestly I feel like one of two things are going on... They either feel like I can't drive a 5-speed or they are looking at it as it's out of warranty and they aren't required to care. SO if that is the case then I will strongly recommend people DO NOT BUY CLUTCHMASTER clutches because this is the type of customer support you will get, never mind the product issues.

 

I'm out of the 90day "warranty" they offer and I'm sure Fred Beans won't take it back either so I guess I'm out $500 on the clutch and have to use my OEM Exedy one or buy something else which will then probably require a new flywheel since this has been done twice now, and brought to a 0.075 step that Clutchmasters required, not the oem step.

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Do you have a phone number for them, CM ?

 

I would call them.

 

It's been a few years, but I can may be hook you up with one of the race teams that CM sponsors and see what he can do, may be he can give you a name of someone to call.

 

Let me know.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So to add to the fun, got a "Fraud Notification" when going for Emissions... LOL Subaru didn't update my vehicle vin to the replacement ECU so the number they pulled off the reg didn't match the ECU it was hooked to. They still let me pass but I need to check with them about getting it updated before the next test so I can not have this happen again.

 

I like my Beretta software I can enter a VIN# into the bin file and program it to the ECU overwriting whats on the ECU currently so it will match the car.

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So to add to the fun, got a "Fraud Notification" when going for Emissions... LOL Subaru didn't update my vehicle vin to the replacement ECU so the number they pulled off the reg didn't match the ECU it was hooked to. They still let me pass but I need to check with them about getting it updated before the next test so I can not have this happen again.

 

I like my Beretta software I can enter a VIN# into the bin file and program it to the ECU overwriting whats on the ECU currently so it will match the car.

 

:lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got a chance to call Lonnie at Clutchmasters... First off, NO ONE answered the phone... just automated... Then I left him a voice mail. We'll see if he get's back to me.

 

I'm starting to wonder whats happened since I sent him 2 emails now but he responded to another one I sent right after installation by calling me almost immediately so to get absolutely no reply from him on the following two with my 500 mile update I'm a bit confused.

 

Well past 500 miles on it now and it's still tricky to get smooth engagement after it's warm... It's fine when cold but once it gets to operating temp the feel is completely different.

 

And I also asked about the noise since it's quite loud in decel.

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Good Luck,

 

I seem to recall Norris's semi-trailer had Clutch Masters on it. There are a few other guy's on Honda-Tech that may have a inside contact too.

 

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3000748

 

I know they were out racing there cars a few weeks back at MIR for the World Cup Finals.

 

I can ask a buddy who has been using my trailer if he knows of someone too if you like.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Good Luck,

 

I seem to recall Norris's semi-trailer had Clutch Masters on it. There are a few other guy's on Honda-Tech that may have a inside contact too.

 

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3000748

 

I was going back and forth with the Shop Manager though, I think that's about as in as you could get... Either way I just want something fixed, something is going to break sooner or later with the amount the engine shakes during engagement.

 

I currently have a in-depth project going on with my wife's forester so until that's done I can't remove/replace my clutch with anything so it's a bit aggravating. I will probably pull this clutch as soon as I can and just put the stock one back in there that has 50k on it... even with the reduced step on the flywheel it's gotta be better than this.

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I can't get to Norris's web site here at work, I'm trying to find other links for you.

 

I appreciate the effort but don't beat yourself up over it... I'd like to see CM come through on this on their own and not have to be prodded by someone they sponsor.

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My quick Exedy story. My son talked to the customer rep at the factory. He told us to buy X clutch for our 286whp 1.6L. that clutch wore out in about 8000 miles. At a Race we spoke to the Rep there, he said that guy sold us the worng clutch, here's my number, call me on Tuesday, I'll send you the right clutch for free. We had the clutch on Friday.

 

You just need to get a hold of the right person.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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My quick Exedy story. My son talked to the customer rep at the factory. He told us to buy X clutch for our 286whp 1.6L. that clutch wore out in about 8000 miles. At a Race we spoke to the Rep there, he said that guy sold us the worng clutch, here's my number, call me on Tuesday, I'll send you the right clutch for free. We had the clutch on Friday.

 

You just need to get a hold of the right person.

 

I thought I did this when I contacted sales and they never got back to me, I then contacted the shop manager and he offered to RMA the clutch and repair it if he found an issue... which he said he did with the material... All of this also done free of charge but now I get no reply from him when I'm still having the same issue.

 

And on top of that I purchased this clutch through Fred Beans so I don't know how a return would go in that aspect... I went to the manufacturer when I had issues because they are the ones who offer the return/repair period.

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