B-BGTLimited Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Side by side photos... Top Feed seals removed from an 09 Subaru Outback 2.5i, these are the SAME seals I removed from mine originally before using the cheezy ones that subaru sells as replacements. OEM on left... Notice all the steps inside from large DIA to small DIA to HUG the tip of the injector. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140927_154934_zps05hajos4.jpg Bottom side of OEM seal, notice the extra lip on the bottom http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140927_154928_zpsrir8cray.jpg Closer shot of the steps inside of the OEM one. Anyone who wants to say the ones they sell will eventually squish into that after being installed for a while is smoking crack. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140927_154912_zpsbb1oznaj.jpg OEM replacement OEM... These are NOT created equal. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140927_154903_zps6wec2dt1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 So this goes along with my also recent ocasional P0457 code I've been getting. First LV shot is before I left for work.. Yesterday on my way home I noticed only getting wastegate boost levels and the car feeling like a dog... Did a quick check when I got home and saw the IAM a zero... and only these two fine learning knock numbers. I expected way more than this to have the IAM drop to complete zero. Drove to work and did a second LV shot... I filled up with gas (light was on this AM) 93 of course and also added about a half bottle of octane booster.... I'm also seeing about a 4-5% increase in fuel trims. Prior to me seeing the P0457 codes I had maybe between 0-1% of learning on all cells and NEVER registered any FLKC... Most recent repairs/inspection was remove the EVAP canister and inspect all lines as well as I replaced the fuel cap. Car has 180k on it meaning so does the Fuel pump and injectors... I have no way of checking fuel pressure but I was wondering if this might be something to investigate. A/F ratio at WOT seems to be right but I haven't done any major WOT pulls since this has started to really check. What do you think I should attack first? Car was DynoTuned by Mike (TuningAlliance) at ESP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Did you email Mike to let him know? Did you check for vacuum/boost leaks? Edit: I just quickly browsed other threads and they point to checking fitment issues on the fuel canister (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1995666), gas cap problem, or vacuum leak problems.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I've done basic look overs, and originally with just the code I did email Mike and he said it sounded like a EVAP leak of sorts but didn't go any further... I have yet to do checks for boost leaks but to show that much of an issue I think it would be very apparent. Also Idle vacuum is good so I can't imagine a small VAC leak could cause this much IAM problems. Also I didn't have this IAM at zero issue till just this week after replacing the fuel cap.. Just before doing the cap I notice it was at 0.5 but in the trip to get the cap and then back to work it went back up to 1 so I though it was just a fluke or maybe from when I had re-set the ecu. My initial IAM on re-flash in the bin is set at 1 but I don't know if that is used when the ECU is reset as well. I completely removed the EVAP canister and checked all the lines going to it and none appeared loose or falling off so I just cleaned them up and lubed them with some WD-40 to hopefully help seal it. It's been at least 350 miles since I reset the ECU last and the readiness monitors are all showing passed and I don't have the P0457 code right now so I am unsure if that is fixed or not... I don't want to reset the ECU yet to fix the IAM either because that will start over my waiting period to get the code. On a good note, the car would stall and not start up correctly after filling the tank prior to all of this work, today I filled it and it started right up with no issues and didn't run rich as it had in the past so I'm hoping that wasn't a fluke and something is better there. I will shoot Mike an email with the LV shots to see if he can point me in the direction of stuff to log to see what's going on deeper below the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Just guessing here, but I think the recent EVAP work may have fixed your problem. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Just guessing here, but I think the recent EVAP work may have fixed your problem. That's what I am thinking. On a different note, since you work so much on your engine, you may like this android phone/table app+bluetooth sensor a fellow member on this forum created. It basically does everything RR can do, pulls LV anytime, monitors knock, let you know if it is detects knocks, log, etc... The only thing it can't do at the moment is flash. Very awesome app. I've learned by using it so far that the AF trims on the LV change very often. They can change like every 30s. see link here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-new-product-2005-2006-lgt-models-229709.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Just guessing here, but I think the recent EVAP work may have fixed your problem. I'd love to agree with that but I started this week with the work being done already and an IAM of 1... Last night on my way home i noticed the drop from my peak of 19PSI down to 10... or waste-gate boost which prompted me to check the ECU and find the IAM down to zero. And it didn't get any better on my way to work today. I always have my laptop with me being an IT pro so it doesn't really peak my interest to work with a BT adapter right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 fair enough then . Just letting you know the options out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Mike is pushing that it is just a Evap system leak so I will be reviewing all of those hoses tonight to see what I can find. Also getting a quote from FBP to see the price to replace ALL of the various EVAP hoses on the engine. Those dried up hoses never seal well... Sprayed down the engine bay area with carb cleaner, all around the intake seals, TB intercooler, EVAP solenoids and hoses and nothing... the engine didn't change note at all. One other thing I can try is plug the Evap line coming from the tank and cap it off going to the engine... See if anything changes idle/fuel correction wise. That would point to a leak back by the canister or the canister/pressure relief valve malfunctioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Very surprised the brake clean didn't find this but I found the right side two front most bolts of the upper plastic intake were completely loose, it was from when I was replacing the o-ring seals a month or so ago... one was 1/4" up from the surface... the other was just like finger tight. Tightened up those two bolts and took it for a ride... It started putting timing back in one of the blocks where I had -2.5* so I figured it was safe to reset the ECU and see if it will drop the IAM again. Right now I'm working on my mom's Outback so the Legacy is at home. I should be driving it to work tomorrow hopefully and we'll see what happens. This weekend OR tonight I plan to pull the upper intake off again so I can inspect everything over and make sure there are no other missing items as well as check over the inlet to make sure it's not torn from the last time I had it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Problem still not solved... Still will register KR in ONLY that area... 0-2400 rpm and 2500-3000 at 1.5-2.0 load... No where else does it register any KR... or save any registered KR to the FLKC table. since the above, I'm back to factory exhaust manifolds, and I've had the whole intake setup removed and I took the whole thing apart and went through it all cleaning all surfaces and re-assembling carefully. I also swapped out the inlet thinking maybe it was ripped but I did not find any evidence of that either. OH I've also removed about 3-4 degrees of timing from that area in the MAP and it's still registering a -5... Which is another reason why I'm having trouble believing it's real knock. Anyone have any ideas? I'm contemplating throwing parts at it now... I replaced the front O2 sensor back in June and I have noticed on my wideband that it will dip into the 15's while cruising and I don't think it did before. Also if you compare the front O2 to the wideband, the wideband is always reading lower. But I'm not sure if that's due to a slight delay or something... The sensors are technically only separated distance wise by the up pipe and turbo. I did however fix the evap code... That has not come back. I'm ready to buy another front O2 and a Knock sensor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Replaced the knock sensor yesterday, I'll keep an eye on the ecu and see if that changes or helps anything. Oh and the $30 sensor after a coupon I got from advance auto was exactly the same one that came out. All the same numbers and writing on it... Made in Japan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Guess I should update this... Been a while since I've been on here. I've had some issues here and there and it ended up being Evap solenoids going bad, at least one... And then having my air filter get so clogged up it was effecting the fuel trims. Beyond that the car has 202k on it now, still the daily, Built motor has near 34-36k on it if I had to guess... still runs great and pulls strong. I've just been doing standard wear items lately. Just did front wheel bearings, ended up not being necessary and it was a frozen caliper pin causing a vibration from the brake dragging, but for anyone wondering I used Moog front bearings and had no issues with the ABS, wheel sensors were 100% compatible and work fine. I know that was brought up in the past and I'm not sure if it was Moog that had the problem or if it was Timken. Most recently the right side axle boot decided to give up and coat my downpipe, so that's been swapped out. Even after heavy cleaning the damn pipe still has some axle grease somewhere because I can smell it. Swapped it back to a stock air box when I was having the fueling issues and I have since bought a new AEM dry flow filter as well as a filter sock so I'll be installing that sometime soon to get back on my typical tune. Regarding my KR issues I have come to the conclusion that it is false KR that comes from the forged pistons or something else in the engine... no matter what I do it will not go away so if pulling timing doesn't remove it then you know quite obviously it's not a timing or fueling issue. It doesn't bother the tune too much, every once and a while I'll see 2* maybe 3* of timing pulled in those same low load low RPM boxes but never anything under heavy load so I'm not that worried about it. My stock clutch that I put in back at 100k is starting to show signs of wear which I can't complain about since it's been on a "Stage 2" setup since ~130k and a higher HP/TQ tuned setup since 165k. That's not bad for a stock Exedy disc. The only change from stock is the flywheel is stepped for a Clutchmasters setup and not OEM... it's a slightly shorter step so that would increase the clamping force a wee bit I can assume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Thanks for the update, been wondering what's been going on. Yea, I found out Moog would not work for the front hubs, that was a few years back. Timken have worked great, if you check out JmP's sticky up top about various parts, you'll find reference to different hubs that work. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Well I'm running the MOOG 513220 in the front and I swapped the rears a year or so ago when I did my backing plates... those are also MOOG 512293. So I either got lucky, or they fixed the issue they were experiencing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Regarding my KR issues I have come to the conclusion that it is false KR that comes from the forged pistons or something else in the engine... no matter what I do it will not go away so if pulling timing doesn't remove it then you know quite obviously it's not a timing or fueling issue. It doesn't bother the tune too much, every once and a while I'll see 2* maybe 3* of timing pulled in those same low load low RPM boxes but never anything under heavy load so I'm not that worried about it. I've been experiencing quite the same, although I do not have forged pistons. I've been suffering from partial throttle/light load FKC that can go as high as -6* . It's been happening for the past three years though and always at the same light load/partial throttle scenario. My tuner tried to address it but it still comes back. Just like you, I don't get any at WOT or under boost. So I decided not to worry about it. It is just annoying though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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