B-BGTLimited Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 New toys, invidia catted downpipe and catback going on soon! http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140306_171802_zpstgbviay7.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Mmmm nom nom... Not enough space in my living room to bring it all inside. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140306_194645_zpszjzflsqs.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Old and rusted http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_094633_zpsoyryhryq.jpg New Hot chit http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_094643_zpskzee0lel.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114119_zpskhoxdz7t.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114129_zpslg1ejm5d.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114141_zpsauarxfxp.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114205_zpsvrnhff2o.jpg Even all Invidia it didn't fit quite right... I think they designed this system on a legacy with an old saggy trans mount because my group N is obviously lifting the tailshaft of the transmission too high in comparison. The flex pipe was dead against the heat shield and carrier bearing bracket. Had to loosen the turbo brackets, release the hook on the trans bracket and space it off with a nut... If I just bolted it in as is it would lift the rear part of the downpipe too high. Nut spacer on the trans bracket http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114227_zpswkrqtrye.jpg Clearance with the nut spacer... I plan to make a new trans hanger that drops it just a bit lower... But I haven't heard anything hit yet. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114216_zpsnw7tbwnc.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_114249_zpshz8uzlzt.jpg Once it's clean I'll get a better rear shot as well as lower so you can see the cross pipe... which btw from behind looks like its about 1" off the ground when it's way higher than that. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140308_115955_zpsa0c9pprs.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Sound review.... Well my personal opinion... its completely different than before. Not the usual deep tone but more of a refined sound if I dare say it... It sounds like there was more exhaust note tuning gone into this setup than what I had. Sounds REALLY aggressive at WOT but reasonable at cruise and has that subie sound during part throttle acceleration. Overall I'm happy with it right now... Just gotta find a way to back light that INVIDA plaque on the Y pipe... LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 You could rice it out and put some lighting down there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I was actually thinking of just an EL panel and stick it behind the lettering... that way ONLY Invidia would be illuminated... I lived the years of under car lighting kits and I don't want to re-live that... LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 very nice my friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 What was the setup you took off? It was put together with v-band clamps. Is it trashed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Telifeifu Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 It's forged pistons, and race bearings, rest is stock, and it's full 3" from the turbo back. I bought M2 racing pipes and made them fit. One small cat in the intermediate pipe. Cat welded in http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/IMAG0483.jpg Unfortunately they need to be re-painted again... Doesn't hold up well in NE... I'll post up a video of one of the pulls tomorrow. great paint job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 What was the setup you took off? It was put together with v-band clamps. Is it trashed? The setup I took off was, I believe from what I was told, was Gimmick's beta system which is why it came with a resonated center section. The new systems they sell don't have that resonator. VERY similar to the $280 ebay exhuast but these mufflers are fully packed... the ebay system has hollow mufflers. The only thing that's trash about the old system is the hangers on the mufflers started to crack since they were only welded to a 3/4" long area on a sheet metal case... there is no rolled edge on the mufflers so nothing really robust to weld to. I fixed them once and I did it recently again but the metal is very thin. I did the V-bands because the original setup didn't fit perfectly and removing all the flanges and doing a new coupler allowed me to better position the system. I'm sure I could clean up the old system fix the hangers again and it could be re-used on someone's setup but the other issue I was having was the V-bands I bought were sold as "stainless" but apparently the flange was NOT stainless and only the bands were. The muffler flanges rusted pretty badly and would have to be replaced once again. So is it "dead" no but it's on it's way out and that blue paint just didn't hold up... It's a ceramic coating and I really wish I had a way to bake it after I painted it because then it probably would have lasted longer which would have resulted in the system overall lasting longer. It was "stainless" but I think 400 grade since it would surface rust, just not scale up and fall apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Gotta keep this up to date... Not sure if these seals came in my rebuild kit or if I got them from Fel-Pro before I did the rebuild back when I did just my intake gaskets... Either way whatever I used was junk and hydro locked my engine. After troubleshooting elsewhere and having my trans clutch and flywheel on the ground... I then figured out what was preventing my engine from turning over... Cylinder #3 was hydro-locked; pulled the plug and about a cup or more of clear water poured out... Thank you shitty aftermarket Injector seals. Car sat during a heavy rain storm a few days ago and water must have come in the scoop and dripped on the injector, I went to go to work and it wouldn't crank over. Turned over about a 1/4 turn if that and stopped dead. SO after pulling the trans and flywheel checking for anything interfering back there as well as pulling the wrist pin plugs to inspect those I saw small dots of rust on the cylinder 3 wall... Proceeded to pull exhaust off and there was clear water dripping out of #3 ports... NOT coolant. Pulled plug and out it poured...... SO I then proceeded to pull the intake off and pour water over the injector to test my theory; I looked up and could see it dripping through the TVG where the injector pokes through... Gotta love it! Trying to source OEM replacements... they are nothing like what comes on the injector when you take apart an original engine but I believe they are thicker than the aftermarket versions. I found some posts about people experiencing boost leaks because of bad seals, unfortunately my leak happened in the opposite direction and with water. LUCKY ME! This is what I had on there http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190293 And here is an image of pulled injectors on ebay... Completely different seal http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190292 Post of someone finding the issue as a boost leak http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2057302 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I may have injector seals in my engine gasket kit. I never touched them during my rebuild. PM me and I'll look in the bag hanging on the nail in the shed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Car sat during a heavy rain storm a few days ago and water must have come in the scoop and dripped on the injector, I am almost positive that is where the water came from. When I lived in France, it rained a lot over there. My car was parked slightly on an incline (front of car slightly higher than rear). After each storm, I was noticing water collected over cylinder #3 injector which came from the hoodscoop. After, that I always parked the car the other way around... sorry to hear man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 I may have injector seals in my engine gasket kit. I never touched them during my rebuild. PM me and I'll look in the bag hanging on the nail in the shed. I got a hold of Ryan at Fred Beans and he has a set of Subaru ones shipped my way today. I should have them tomorrow. They are the ones that I saw in the link I posted, so HOPEFULLY it solves the issue. I'm also going to see if I can figure out how the water got there and see if there is any way re-use my old engine cover to protect the injector from this in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I'm also going to see if I can figure out how the water got there and see if there is any way re-use my old engine cover to protect the injector from this in the future. Actually, I got water dripping in that area even with the engine cover on (I always have it on). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 damn... well I'll figure something out. It's gotta be from the vent they put off to the side to direct air at the turbo itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 damn... well I'll figure something out. It's gotta be from the vent they put off to the side to direct air at the turbo itself. That is the area that got my AEM soaked when it rained hard enough or a drive thru car wash sprayed at the right angle on power rinse. Sent from my iFail 5s using Tapatalk app 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Took some videos of how loose the injectors were; completely unacceptable for a replacement part if you ask me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Slop up and down... http://youtu.be/6dFNhE5CxDw slop side to side of the injector tip http://youtu.be/CQg44YdsYrQ The side to side movement is how much slop there is between the seal itself and the injector bore, NOT the seal to the injector, that fit snug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Got oem rings... Same friken thing. Got creative with two more O-rings to provide compression when rail is bolted down and one to expand the outer diameter of the oem ring so it will actually seal to the walls of the TVG bores. I'll put pics up when I'm on a desktop. For now hitting the hay and going to wicked big meet day 2 at Thompson tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 So you had to use two seals to get it to seal out water ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 This is what I did to the OEM rings to get them to seal to the outer walls of the TVG's and actually have compression on them when the rail is bolted down. And it's more than just seal out "water" to be specific... I'm sure these were letting in air and dirt as well as leaking boost when at WOT but I just never heard anything and never thought to spray the injector area with carb cleaner to see if there were leaks... I just happened to find this extremely lacking seal by way of water getting in my engine. I would love for someone to prove to me that the seals that Subaru sells, PN #16608KA000, The ones pictured... will work on a OEM setup. Because currently I believe they will not with my experience with them. OEM seals http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140822_211939_zps1c466c92.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140822_211955_zpse866c391.jpg O-ring to seal smaller tip diameter to the ID of the new seals, as well as expand the OD of the new seal some so it will seal to the TVG walls. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140822_211929_zps67f0b2e8.jpg O-ring on base of injector to make overall setup thicker http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140822_212037_zpsbaaaed20.jpg View from tip showing smaller ring inside. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/20140822_212045_zpsbf08a8c9.jpg They work and don't wiggle at all when installed which is what I want. I know for a fact this setup will keep water air and dirt out as well as boost in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 I will say since replacing these seals I've notices much less exhaust popping upon shifts... I didn't find any gaskets that illustrated any leaks that would let air into the exhaust (I had removed the headers and up pipe to find this issue) And going back in I re-used all the gaskets I had. Only thing I can come up with is upon shift or TB closing the injector o-rings were loose enough to allow the engine to suck in excess fresh air which could result in popping in the exhaust. Whatever it was I guess I can say a crisis has been averted with replacing these with something better. I will be pulling apart my moms Outback on the weekend of the 27th to do head gaskets, I will definitely be getting pictures of the OEM seals that come on the engine's from the factory vs these POS replacements Subaru has come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 thanks for the update. As for me, I will be changing another timing belt + pulleys on my 06 obxt. Current belt slipped about 3 teeths on the driver side camshaft pulleys due to improper clearance between a tb guide and belt from whoever did the job before . Manual says up to 3 teeths jump, you should be OK. Crossing fingers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.