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Bolt up turbocharger upgrade - Vol-2


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And FYI - If you took it extremely easy on that 1 hour ride you MAY be OK....

 

My 1st Turbo went south in NJ and I drove it back to CT without ever boosting more than 2 PSI and there were no engine issues.... 2nd the car was shut down immediately....

 

But you definitely need to at least pull the oil pan and inspect for metal shavings (at a minimum):eek:

 

And I feel like my saving grace is that I run Amsoil, there's less risk if you are running a good synthetic:p

 

It's really car/case specific if the Turbo takes out the engine, but there is some hope:redface:

 

Yea i wasn't driving it really hard on the way back home. It was a winter storm in the middle of April!!!!!! hahaha

 

So i took it really slow because of the weather. I drove back at 35-40mph or even slower to get home. There was no boost what-so-ever.

 

Just curious, how would I know if it was a blown head gasket or not?

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Yea i wasn't driving it really hard on the way back home. It was a winter storm in the middle of April!!!!!! hahaha

 

So i took it really slow because of the weather. I drove back at 35-40mph or even slower to get home. There was no boost what-so-ever.

 

Just curious, how would I know if it was a blown head gasket or not?

 

I'd be way more worried about bearings than headgaskets.

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I'd pull the IC and see if there is any debris there or toward the TB. If the bearing went, then the blades can shred against the housing and throw bits toward the intake manifold as well.

 

If you don't have a magnetic drainplug, that may not be a bad idea while flushing the engine.

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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My bad. I am running on no sleep for DAYS now. 15qts. Basically 3 oil changes worth.

 

I am somewhat perplexed by all the OCV's being purchased. It seems someone thinks the OCV has an effect on oil supply to the turbo. But it does not. The OCV (passenger side) and the turbo are fed oil from the same galley, thats it. OCV supplies oil to the cam, not the turbo. If the OCV is being starved of oil you get a CEL and the turbo is probably being starved at teh same time. If the OCV fails you get the same CEL (but as long as the oil supply at the head is not obstructed the turbo is still getting oil).

 

The OCV is just an electro-magnet pulling a slide. The "gills" of the slide could collect metal particulate. So they should be cleaned. It is very easy to test one out of the car. Supply 12v and watch the slide move. If it is good, clean it. I dont always agree with replacing things that are not broken.

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I am somewhat perplexed by all the OCV's being purchased. It seems someone thinks the OCV has an effect on oil supply to the turbo. But it does not. The OCV (passenger side) and the turbo are fed oil from the same galley, thats it. OCV supplies oil to the cam, not the turbo. If the OCV is being starved of oil you get a CEL and the turbo is probably being starved at teh same time. If the OCV fails you get the same CEL (but as long as the oil supply at the head is not obstructed the turbo is still getting oil).

 

The OCV is just an electro-magnet pulling a slide. The "gills" of the slide could collect metal particulate. So they should be cleaned. It is very easy to test one out of the car. Supply 12v and watch the slide move. If it is good, clean it. I dont always agree with replacing things that are not broken.

 

I think part of it is that Bryan has been blaming turbo failures on oil starvation due to failed OCVs. You might want to take it up with him. ;)

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I think part of it is that Bryan has been blaming turbo failures on oil starvation due to failed OCVs. You might want to take it up with him. ;)

 

Yea, i called and talked to Bryan about it and he suggested that i get a brand new OCV as well.

 

But he did suggest that I buy an oil supply line from Imfamous

 

well you guys ARE the expert here right? haha

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Hmmm. If Bryan is recommending new OCV's with turbos that explains the huge jump in OCV sales. I dont mind selling parts, but dont want to sell unnecessary parts. It just adds to the cost of replacement which for many is already pushing the budget.

 

I will go out on a limb and say, LGT members... you do not need to replace your OCV's unless they have failed or there is a concern of contamination being left in the valves. The OCV does not control flow of oil to the turbo. It simply is fed oil from the same galley location as the turbo.

 

So far BNR turbos are not shipped with studs. You will need 3. You will also need some gaskets and possibly some hose and/or vacuum line.

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I just received BNR 16g beginning of April from Bryan and it came with 3 new studs and new crush washers for water lines. I shortened the studs though because i feel they are too long. There was also a new oil drain gasket.
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+1 on having received 3 studs, 4 crush washers and, a gasket, two small bolts(heat shield?) and a stack of business cards. Invoice states he recommends the filtered oil line, new ocv's, and NO Mobile 1!
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FWIW, I found it easier to bolt the turbo on and not use the studs in the up pipe.

 

You can get the bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block, they work great.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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FWIW, I found it easier to bolt the turbo on and not use the studs in the up pipe.

 

You can get the bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block, they work great.

 

Many aftermarket (bellmouth design) down pipes do not allow a bolt to be used as there is not enough clearance between the bottom/inside of the bellmouth and the flange. Also using the studs gives you something to "hang" the down pipe on making for a much easier installation. I recommend studs.

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+1 on having received 3 studs, 4 crush washers and, a gasket, two small bolts(heat shield?) and a stack of business cards. Invoice states he recommends the filtered oil line, new ocv's, and NO Mobile 1!

 

Aww man, I only got two studs in my turbo :icon_cry:

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Aww man, I only got two studs in my turbo :icon_cry:

 

That is better anyway. The bottom stud is a pain to use with aftermarket downpipes. My BNR Evo 16G only came with two studs and I have never missed having the third.

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Many aftermarket (bellmouth design) down pipes do not allow a bolt to be used as there is not enough clearance between the bottom/inside of the bellmouth and the flange. Also using the studs gives you something to "hang" the down pipe on making for a much easier installation. I recommend studs.

 

 

 

I'm talking about bolting the turbo to the up pipe. Here's mine, I use the studs to hang the DP on. I also have a hard time getting that bottom center nut on with my Invidia DP.

 

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Turbo came in this morning. Thing is a work of art! It came with 3 studs, a small screw of some sort, washers and what looks likes the water line gasket.

 

Did anybody have some sort of white compound on one of the fan blades on the outlet side? It looked sort of rough... I'll snap a pic later when I get home from work.

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