Subadozer Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I'm in for the 16g, I just have to finish my supporting mods and figure out how to pay for the dang thing without pissing off the fiancee:lol: I looked at the 16g as reliability insurance and the upgrade feature was icing on the cake. I'm just thankful I got the old one out before it caused serious damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coblue Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I was wondering if anyone else with the new housing has noticed this. When installing my 16g I really had to force it forward into the intake hose in order for the turbo housing to match up on the uppipe and brackets. Then when installing the stock intercooler we really had to twist/force the IC to match up with its mounting holes ( the inlet from the turbo and the bracket on the driver side). Lastly the engine cover holes no longer line up squarely with the front bracket and the intercooler holes. I haven't read of anyone else encountering this. Mostly I'm concerned about the pressure it's putting on the inlet hose and the torque on the IC putting pressure on the end tank seams. It's as if the housing is too far forward and a little twisted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I looked at the 16g as reliability insurance and the upgrade feature was icing on the cake. I'm just thankful I got the old one out before it caused serious damage. This is exactly why I'm looking at the 16g. I just finished most of the reliability mods to prevent starvation, now I'm looking to do the turbo and my block should be safe for awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Going to check my turbo for Shaft play this weekend. Will probably end up with a 16g. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 19, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 19, 2013 I was wondering if anyone else with the new housing has noticed this. When installing my 16g I really had to force it forward into the intake hose in order for the turbo housing to match up on the uppipe and brackets. Then when installing the stock intercooler we really had to twist/force the IC to match up with its mounting holes ( the inlet from the turbo and the bracket on the driver side). Lastly the engine cover holes no longer line up squarely with the front bracket and the intercooler holes. I haven't read of anyone else encountering this. Mostly I'm concerned about the pressure it's putting on the inlet hose and the torque on the IC putting pressure on the end tank seams. It's as if the housing is too far forward and a little twisted. Is your UP attached to the brackets that are supposed to go between it and the head? Going to check my turbo for Shaft play this weekend. Will probably end up with a 16g. You can't afford a 16G and supporting mods. Better to get a rebuilt VF40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coblue Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Is your UP attached to the brackets that are supposed to go between it and the head? Yes. That's why I'm questioning why everything is a little askew. It's as if some of the bolt holes in the base of the turbo housing are a little too far to the rear, and the turbo outlet bolt holes for the IC are rotated a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 I have already installed a few of these turbos (new housings). On cars running a TMIC, it can get a bit interesting. Something is a tad different from stock. TMIC's do not fit back on the same way. I fought a Perrin for about 45 minutes the first time I installed one with a TMIC. Fit far cleaner on the OEM turbo, but in the end I got it to fit perfect. Lesson learned and we now charge more for a BNR install over the old OEM rebuilds. Plus the time and expense to add studs (none supplied with the turbos), remove the coolant lines from the old turbo and cut the bridge and install on the new turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Is your UP attached to the brackets that are supposed to go between it and the head? You can't afford a 16G and supporting mods. Better to get a rebuilt VF40. But isn't 16g the same as an OEM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coblue Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Thanks M Sprank, good to know someone else has seen this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully, Bryan is addressing this issue. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 But isn't 16g the same as an OEM? No. A 16g is bigger than a vf52. You need at least a fuel pump, and even then you have to taper boost to redline because the injectors are maxed. Also, since you have a 5eat you'll need the valve body mod. I wouldn't say that you should go with a rebuilt 40, as they are unreliable. Why not look at a vf52? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 I wouldn't say that you should go with a rebuilt 40, as they are unreliable. :spin::spin::spin: I my 40:):lol: Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 So VF52 is better for my car and myself? On a serious note, my car will probably stay stock (power wise) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 VF-52 are just as prone to failure as any IHI turbo. We have even seen them bad out of the box (Subaru had an issue in production). Adding a fuel pump to stock injectors does almost nothing. Lowers IDC by 1-2% max. A 16g can be run on stock fueling, you just have to taper boost up top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Adding a fuel pump to stock injectors does almost nothing. Lowers IDC by 1-2% max. Yes, but right at the edge I feel more comfortable at 97% than at 99% IDC. False sense of security perhaps. A 16g can be run on stock fueling, you just have to taper boost up top. IME you run out of injector right around the point the turbo is maxed anyway. None of the 16G turbos I've tested flowed any more air at say 18psi @ redline than they did at 16.5psi, but less timing could be run. Upgrade injectors would gain nothing in this case. Quite sure Famaya's question was a joke btw. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Which one cause I'm being serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 ^he wants a 5th gen anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 ^he wants a 5th gen anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmmspecb Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Damnit. I didn't want to hear about fitment issues... I was going to call Bryan on monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Fit is not all that much different than many aftermarket turbos. Most come with some type of quirk to work around. It is learning the quirks and being able to accurately estimate time and cost that matters to me (as a shop owner). The oem "rebuilds" were almost too easy to install. Nothing fits like OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Fit is not all that much different than many aftermarket turbos. Most come with some type of quirk to work around. It is learning the quirks and being able to accurately estimate time and cost that matters to me (as a shop owner). The oem "rebuilds" were almost too easy to install. Nothing fits like OEM. It's probably one of those things that there are so many things to line up that a fraction of a degree off on something dominoes to other alignments, which might also be really difficult to get 100% spot-on. I know Bryan disliked the hassles of the core system but I wonder if he's willing to still do rebuilds if the price is right (...he says with an available core for sale ). I suspect one of the advantages of the new castings is that his milling time is reduced or eliminated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanBNR Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 I haven't heard of fitment issues with the new castings. I have sold over 100 of them by now. I still have the VF40 housings if you request them, but from now on out it will be new. As for install hardware: Studs, water lines, banjo bolts, drain tubes, turbine inlet and outlet gaskets, they are in the make. I still haven't recieved them. Once they do, the prices will go up about $50. Bryan@BNR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 It is no more of an issue than 99% of aftermarket turbos. Nice to see the remaining parts are in the works. It is worth the extra $50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmmspecb Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I haven't heard of fitment issues with the new castings. I have sold over 100 of them by now. I still have the VF40 housings if you request them, but from now on out it will be new. As for install hardware: Studs, water lines, banjo bolts, drain tubes, turbine inlet and outlet gaskets, they are in the make. I still haven't recieved them. Once they do, the prices will go up about $50. Bryan@BNR Alrighty. I'll wait until until all the install hardware is ready to go and I'll give you a call. ETA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coblue Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 I was wondering if anyone else with the new housing has noticed this. When installing my 16g I really had to force it forward into the intake hose in order for the turbo housing to match up on the uppipe and brackets. Then when installing the stock intercooler we really had to twist/force the IC to match up with its mounting holes ( the inlet from the turbo and the bracket on the driver side). Lastly the engine cover holes no longer line up squarely with the front bracket and the intercooler holes. I haven't read of anyone else encountering this. Mostly I'm concerned about the pressure it's putting on the inlet hose and the torque on the IC putting pressure on the end tank seams. It's as if the housing is too far forward and a little twisted. Re: my post above. I spoke with Bryan today and just sent him some photos of where I thought the figment was a little off. He is going to investigateto see if something is off between the vf40 and his new housing. stand up guy, couldnt ask for more. 600 miles on my rebuild, can't wait to get off the limp map and see what the 16g will do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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